Brand-new Scura

[Chuck]

Attaboy.  Nothin to this Guzzi wrenchin.  The only torque spec on the oil pump gear I've seen is to hold it with a screwdriver and tighten the nut. That's automatically self limiting, but with a little blue loc tite it should be good. You'll be hearing that supercharger before you know it. 

[pete roper]

The way I install the Valtec type tensioners is to put the plate on and then the chain and sprockets before finally slipping the blade and Spring over the pin and pushing it home. Then install the washer and nyloc nut. Easy.

 

Pete

[Scud]

The way I install the Valtec type tensioners is to put the plate on and then the chain and sprockets before finally slipping the blade and Spring over the pin and pushing it home. Then install the washer and nyloc nut. Easy.

 

Pete

 

  Well, sometimes things are so obvious, once somebody with some experience 'splains it properly.

[Scud]

BBCode (replace photobucket's img with this in your post)

 

It seemed fitting to drink a Sierra Nevada "handcrafted" Pale Ale while removing the masking from the freshly painted engine. I promised to take her to the Sierra Nevada Mountains as soon as the snow melts.

 

...and that's the last of the crinkle paint. If I ever think about repainting another 2002 V11 drivetrain, please conduct an intervention to stop me. 

 

BTW, ignore the nasty paint on the sump ring, that ring is a spare that I used as a base while painting.

[SMDL]

Nice work!  

 

Shaun

[Chuck]

Now you know why Guzzi put new cases on them.. 

[Scud]

Hey Pete - I was thinking of you today. This is third time installing one of your "Roper Plates." Second time in this bike. I think I'm marginally proficient at it now.

 

Happy New Year to you and all the AU/NZ people who will see it almost a full day before me.

 

[MartyNZ]

Happy New Year to you "north of the equator, east of the date line" folks too!

 

Good job on the paint, Tim!

It looks much better than before. Despite your warning not to, I think I'll do the same to my bike next winter.

And now is a good time to put level markings on your thermometer dipstick, while you can see it from below, poking down through the plate.

That is if you haven't already (I haven't on mine yet).

See also this post from Ryland3410.

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13096&hl=%2Bdipstick+%2Bmark

[Scud]

Thanks. And as to why Moto Guzzi put new cases... yeah, that was a shit-ton of work.  And underneath the crinkle paint, the case is a much rougher cast than the case on my 2003 (and you can see how much smoother the transmission case is). I bet they celebrated every time a person chose the free accessories instead of the new case.

 

The RAM clutch is in now. I can rotate the rear wheel by hand with the clutch in and transmission in gear, so it seems like it's going to work... and it takes very little effort at the clutch lever. 

 

And, you know, I may just swipe the thermometer dipstick from my LeMans. It's a good idea to mark the levels on that now.

 

I blacked out my engine number... 

[JesterGrin_1]

Scud very nice work and if all goes well you will not have to do it again for at least a couple of years.

[Scud]

Despite your warning not to, I think I'll do the same to my bike next winter.

 

 

OK, it would make a fine winter project - and here are some lessons learned.

 

Supplies and Techniques:

• Aircraft stripper is "the bomb" - wear long sleeves, rubber gloves, and a full face-shield (not just goggles)
• Super Clean helps to dissolve the black-tar goo that some of the paint turns to (the entire engine case turned to a horrid, sticky mess, while some parts released the paint like a rubber glove).
• Thick-bristled parts cleaner brush helps to dislodge stubborn bits of stripped paint from hard-to-reach places
• Plastic scrapers can be cut into little strips the same size as the grooves in various parts
• Q-tips are the same size as the grooves at the bottom of the engine block (you'll need to scoop paint-tar-goo out of those grooves)

Specific Parts:

• Rear drive and stabilizer arm - easy peasy
• Driveshaft collars - I recommend powdercoating, but they would be easy to spray
• Transmission - I think you could leave the two main cases and all the gears together - and paint the rear cover and selector cover independently. I split everything because of a leak.
• Engine - the sump parts are easy. The timing cover is a PITA, because the fins are so tall (the timing cover might be a good candidate for powdercoating, especially since it gets hit by gravel). The block would have been much easier with the cylinders removed - but I didn't want to strip it down that far. I ended up leaving a partial ring of old paint where the cylinders meet the block - especially on top of the engine. 

Bonus Points:

This would be the time to drop off a big batch of goodies at the powdercoater:  swingarm, subframes (I did the lower and the front), various bits and brackets. 

 

 

FAIR WARNING

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I51eR2hzdQ

[Scud]

Then comes the moment when you think "Well, that WAS worth it."      

 

[Chuck]

That's kick ass, Tim.. Attaboy.   

[SMDL]

[Scud]

My New Year's resolution is: "Rub my hose less and ride more."

 

The RH oil cooler hose had rubbed through the thin rubber and the paint on the subframe - so wrapped the offending section in a piece of split heater hose.

 

 

The hose to the shock reservoir had burned through paint on the frame and I didn't like how it was rubbing against the airbox bracket - and I had some clear vinyl tube in my toolbox.

 

 

This oil hose had rubbed through the paint on the subframe, and it rubs on a sharp edge under the transmission - so more heater hose to protect it.

 

 

And here's how I'm going to ride more...

 

 

Still have a lot of fine adjustment and tuning to do... hoping to get it through a few heat/cool cycles and get her out for a proper ride soon.  And where did I stash that belly pan?