Synchronization knob and throttle bodies

[JBBenson]

Hi guys ....

 

Here's how it went ....

 

Cleaned the throttle bodies, especially the spring mechanisms. Also cleaned the air bleed screws which were sooty. Also cleaned the plugs. I didn't have the stock so ran Bosch W7DC.

 

Got the 150mV and the 520mV.  The bike runs better, at 1/2 turn air bleed.  At fully closed the idling is bad.  At 3/4 turns the bike seems to falter intermittently.  Thanks Roy for the air bleed opening tip. It is contrary to the sticky post procedure but seems to work for me. 

 

2 main problems:

 

1. I lost my tacho. Totally dead.  Will read up and maybe get one.

 

2. I failed to balance the cylinders. More suction on right as shown by the carbtune. On the Twinmax the deviation is less but visible. 

 

I tried to adjust the balance using the air bleed screws and it affected the idle badly.  Using the syncro knob also affected the idle but did not affect the readings on the carbtune.

 

I am stumped, but at least now I seemed to have gotten the idle set up ok.

 

Any views?    

 

I had the same struggle for almost a year. I ended up replacing all of the intake rubbers and replacing the rubber hose connecting the two intake manifolds (same nipple used for the balancing). You do have a hose connecting those, right? I also replaced the head temperature sensor with the upgraded brass one.

 

Also make sure the exhaust is not leaking anywhere, tiny leaks can make it run rough, popping etc through the throttle range.

 

The only number that matters is 150mV with a RH disconnected throttle. It just so happens that around 520mV when connected is often right, so start there.

 

Some here feel that you should use both throttle stop screws, I think it make things more complicated. It the linkage has that much slop in it, you can either start replacing worn parts, or compensate for the misalignment with the bleed screws. Once on the throttle, the idle stop screws don't play a role anymore.

 

Do any tuning when the bike is fully warmed up. That being said, make sure you are not balancing an overheated engine, that can make it difficult or impossible. Use a big fan and keep it cool and only run it for a few minutes.

 

Keep in mind too, that "in balance" is not the same as "even". My bleed screws are totally uneven and my bike finally idles perfectly in all conditions, cold, hot, traffic, etc., and there is no sputtering, burping or anything else. The faltering you describe is out-of-balance throttles at idle.

 

I only turned the white knob a little to get good balance above 3K. I will say it again, the cheap yardstick manometer made all balancing super easy.

 

I just took an hour-long ride in the cool mountain air this morning. The Guzzi has never run better: it purrs like a sewing machine and pulls like a locomotive.

 

It was worth all of the headaches.

[slowkitty]

Just an update.

 

The tacho is back. Turned out that I conserved the battery by pulling out the headlight fuse and that killed the tacho.

 

Of course went for a ride and now found that the speedo is dead. I expected it to go ever since I had the dreaded swinging needle symptom. Will likely install a TLM replacement ... http://www.tlm.nl/en/news/general/warehouse/angle-drive-replacement-v11/

[docc]

That is interesting news! I did not see any pictures of their adapter - give us a complete rundown!!

[Kiwi_Roy]

Just an update.

 

The tacho is back. Turned out that I conserved the battery by pulling out the headlight fuse and that killed the tacho.

 

Of course went for a ride and now found that the speedo is dead. I expected it to go ever since I had the dreaded swinging needle symptom. Will likely install a TLM replacement ... http://www.tlm.nl/en/news/general/warehouse/angle-drive-replacement-v11/

Don't do that, pulling the fuse or relay disables the Voltage regulator/charging. Unplug the 4 way connector under the headlight to save power.