moto fugazzi Posted December 3, 2017 Posted December 3, 2017 I fixed the above issues...not sure how that happened with copy and paste
docc Posted December 4, 2017 Author Posted December 4, 2017 I fixed the above issues...not sure how that happened with copy and paste Haha, I don;t know what the "typos" were, but you can't get away with much with these smart lads. I'm hanging on Step#5: "Performing more than one discharge and recharge cycle is beneficial to increasing restored capacity. "
moto fugazzi Posted December 4, 2017 Posted December 4, 2017 I fixed the above issues...not sure how that happened with copy and paste Haha, I don;t know what the "typos" were, but you can't get away with much with these smart lads. I'm hanging on Step#5: "Performing more than one discharge and recharge cycle is beneficial to increasing restored capacity. " After the first discharge/recharge cycle, the weak battery light went off on the charger. I did another cycle today, and we'll see what the volts are tomorrow night after I take the charger off in the morning and let it rest. With an HID headlight and LED fog lights, it takes quite a while to drain the battery to under 10V like Odyssey wants you do do before the recharge cycle. Ken
docc Posted December 4, 2017 Author Posted December 4, 2017 In my experience, it is *pretty* effective to discharge to a point of stability (this might get higher and higher as the battery gets stronger). In other words, turn the lights on for two or three minutes until the displayed voltage levels off. Terminate the discharge and monitor voltage until it rises and "levels off" again. Note the voltage. If under 12.65v, recharge (actually ->charge with sufficient amperage and voltage up to, but no more than 15.0vDC.) Monitor how long it takes for the battery to drop back to 12.65v (should take longer and longer with each *discharge-charge* cycle. Be aware of the temperature adjusted voltage values. [oh, and be certain your battery terminals and grounds are clean and sealed. Caig DeOxit rocks!]
moto fugazzi Posted December 4, 2017 Posted December 4, 2017 In my experience, it is *pretty* effective to discharge to a point of stability (this might get higher and higher as the battery gets stronger). In other words, turn the lights on for two or three minutes until the displayed voltage levels off. Terminate the discharge and monitor voltage until it rises and "levels off again.' Note the voltage. If under 12.65v, recharge (actually ->chargesufficient amperage and voltage up to, but no more than 15.0vDC.) Monitor how long it takes for the battery to drop back to 12.65v (should take longer and longer with each *discharge-charge* cycle. Be aware of the temperature adjusted voltage values. [oh, and be certain your battery terminals and grounds are clean and sealed. Caig DeOxit rocks!] I have Caig Deoxit at home and at work. 1
moto fugazzi Posted December 21, 2017 Posted December 21, 2017 I have done the discharge/charge cycles on my V11 (PC545) with the BatteyMinder 12248 3 times between 12/3-12/5/17. Here's the readings over the following days, and keep in mind that the battery is still in the bike, and there has always been a parasitic drain whilst connected. 12/6 13.0V 12/7 12.89 12/8 12.87 12/9 12.84 12/11 12.83 12/12-12/19- No data collected as it was too damn cold outside 12/20 12.74V Prior to the discharge/charge cycles, my bike wouldn't start the day after I took it off of the Battery Tender trickle charger. All discharge cycles including dropping the volts to below 10, then followed by 8A charging and then letting it "float" until the next night. This may have rejuvenated the PC545, but I'll know for sure in spring and I'll keep you all posted. As of the past 2 weeks, I've been trying to rejuvenate 5 year old AGM battery in my V7C, and I'll post the updates in a few days. So far, Docc's methods have been working. Ken
docc Posted December 21, 2017 Author Posted December 21, 2017 I have done the discharge/charge cycles on my V11 (PC545) with the BatteyMinder 12248 3 times between 12/3-12/5/17. Here's the readings over the following days, and keep in mind that the battery is still in the bike, and there has always been a parasitic drain whilst connected. 12/6 13.0V 12/7 12.89 12/8 12.87 12/9 12.84 12/11 12.83 12/12-12/19- No data collected as it was too damn cold outside 12/20 12.74V Prior to the discharge/charge cycles, my bike wouldn't start the day after I took it off of the Battery Tender trickle charger. All discharge cycles including dropping the volts to below 10, then followed by 8A charging and then letting it "float" until the next night. This may have rejuvenated the PC545, but I'll know for sure in spring and I'll keep you all posted. As of the past 2 weeks, I've been trying to rejuvenate 5 year old AGM battery in my V7C, and I'll post the updates in a few days. So far, Docc's methods have been working. Ken Thanks for that. Truly! Repeat when the battery drops to 12.65v at 77ºF/25ºC. What's the ambient temperature where the battery is?
moto fugazzi Posted December 21, 2017 Posted December 21, 2017 Quote: "Truly! Repeat when the battery drops to 12.65v at 77ºF/25ºC. What's the ambient temperature where the battery is?" It was 24f last night when I measured it. In the past 2 weeks, it's been around 20-35f. Ken
docc Posted December 21, 2017 Author Posted December 21, 2017 Looks like State of Charge voltages for the AGM are about 0.1 volts lower at that temperature (ie: full State of Charge at ~24ºF/-4.4ºC = ` 12.7v): At that temperature, observe how long it takes to statically discharge to ~12.55v, then discharge and charge with proper voltage/amperage. It's nice when these batteries will hold above the charge threshold for weeks, but I would not expect months . .
docc Posted December 22, 2017 Author Posted December 22, 2017 I google and use this conversion tool: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-ab&biw=1280&bih=705&ei=-_k8WpGdAoPNmwHwiIqQCw&q=celsius+to+fahrenheit+conversion&oq=celsius+to+fahrenheit+&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0l10.17760.17760.0.21402.1.1.0.0.0.0.87.87.1.1.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.1.87....0.LxjfHIo47DQ
Chuck Posted December 22, 2017 Posted December 22, 2017 Google the program download "Convert." I've been using it for probably 20 years. Converts about anything to anything else except that lead to gold thing isn't there.
docc Posted December 23, 2017 Author Posted December 23, 2017 I'm not good at converting C to F. This is one of the reasons I like *graphs*, not >tables On a graph, the line would remain the same showing full State of Charge in vDC versus Ambient Temperature. Both temperature scales could be overlapped on the Y-axis. I looked, and looked. And looked more. But could not find such a *graph*. It has to be for AGM/ VRLA. And for "State of Charge" or even OCV (Open Current Voltage) even though those two things have nuance differences. All voltages (SoC, OCV, Charge Voltage, Float Voltage) should be temperature compensated.
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