thelonewonderer Posted January 9, 2015 Author Posted January 9, 2015 Yeah, I haven't been riding it or running it. I only rode it the day I started hearing the knock. Since then, it's just been started a couple of times, while I tried to determine where the sound was coming from.
thelonewonderer Posted January 9, 2015 Author Posted January 9, 2015 Whew......it sounds like you have a rod knocking ? What is your mechanical ability ? The oil pan needs to come off and inspect the lower end to verify. Do NOT run or ride this until you verify this noise ! As for my mechanical ability, I've rebuilt the top ends of a few older Japanese bikes. Looks like I'll be diving into this one, too, as the local Italian bike shop charges $125/hr.
Don G Posted January 9, 2015 Posted January 9, 2015 Pull the alternator cover and see if your rotor is loose, if it is , pull the oil sump and drop the rod caps and check the rod bearings. DonG
Kiwi_Roy Posted January 9, 2015 Posted January 9, 2015 If it's just the big ends they are fairly inexpensive, about $80 for a set.
moto fugazzi Posted January 9, 2015 Posted January 9, 2015 My first thought after hearing it through crappy laptop speakers is an exhaust leak. Make sure the exhaust system is tight, and put some smoke next to the gaskets to see if there is a leak. Let's hope it's something as simple as that. Ken
thelonewonderer Posted January 9, 2015 Author Posted January 9, 2015 If it's just the big ends they are fairly inexpensive, about $80 for a set. Sorry for being so green, but what do you mean by "big ends?" Update--I realized what "big ends" are. Is it possible to change the bearing, if that is indeed what is wrong with it, by removing the sump and going through the bottom?
thelonewonderer Posted January 9, 2015 Author Posted January 9, 2015 My first thought after hearing it through crappy laptop speakers is an exhaust leak. Make sure the exhaust system is tight, and put some smoke next to the gaskets to see if there is a leak. Let's hope it's something as simple as that. Ken Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be an exhaust leak.
thelonewonderer Posted January 9, 2015 Author Posted January 9, 2015 Pull the alternator cover and see if your rotor is loose, if it is , pull the oil sump and drop the rod caps and check the rod bearings. DonG The rotor is good and tight. I'll be pulling the sump and rod caps as soon as I get some time.
Zooter Posted January 9, 2015 Posted January 9, 2015 Pull the alternator cover and see if your rotor is loose, if it is , pull the oil sump and drop the rod caps and check the rod bearings. DonG The rotor is good and tight. I'll be pulling the sump and rod caps as soon as I get some time.Rod caps enclose the "big end" bearings of the conrods. Now you're up to speed, sort of. A workshop manual would be a good idea. There are often gotchas lurking in motors. Maybe it's as simple as winding off the cap nuts (bolts?) and giving the cap a tap, maybe not. A question for the knowledgeable, if a bigend has gone, is it ok to simply replace the shells with the same size without inspecting the crank for trueness and wear? And what sort of mess would be in the oilways?
gstallons Posted January 10, 2015 Posted January 10, 2015 Uh....not quite. You can drop the oil pan & look in the oil pan . You might see a lot of metallic particles floating in the oil . If so , remove the rod caps ( after using a metal stamp to index them to each rod and direction) and look to see if the bearing and rod journal are o.k or not. How much you know or don't know will depend on your success . Be honest w/yourself and Google pictures of these terms , procedures and repairs to be aware of your situation and direction you need to take .
Zooter Posted January 10, 2015 Posted January 10, 2015 Uh....not quite. You can drop the oil pan & look in the oil pan . You might see a lot of metallic particles floating in the oil . If so , remove the rod caps ( after using a metal stamp to index them to each rod and direction) and look to see if the bearing and rod journal are o.k or not. How much you know or don't know will depend on your success . Be honest w/yourself and Google pictures of these terms , procedures and repairs to be aware of your situation and direction you need to take .There's your first gotcha. Apparently there are no identifying marks on the rod caps, making it possible to mix up both location and direction.
Cabernet Posted January 10, 2015 Posted January 10, 2015 Been down the big end route. From hearing it, I did around a mile at low revs back to the pits. Mine too, sounded OK at tick over, but knocked under load and over run from 2k. Mine too is an 2003 model. Sump and heads off revealed a big end shell overheated. This had scored the crank bearing too. New crank, new conrod as the bore had stretched oval. New shells and bearings. This is an engine out, splitting at the gearbox. So for re-assembly you'll need a clutch aligning tool. Considered new clutch plate at the time, but it measured up as new. Have you dropped the oil yet to see what comes out with it? Mine had done a little over 15,000 miles. Hope you're luckier than I.
thelonewonderer Posted January 10, 2015 Author Posted January 10, 2015 Been down the big end route. From hearing it, I did around a mile at low revs back to the pits. Mine too, sounded OK at tick over, but knocked under load and over run from 2k. Mine too is an 2003 model. Sump and heads off revealed a big end shell overheated. This had scored the crank bearing too. New crank, new conrod as the bore had stretched oval. New shells and bearings. This is an engine out, splitting at the gearbox. So for re-assembly you'll need a clutch aligning tool. Considered new clutch plate at the time, but it measured up as new. Have you dropped the oil yet to see what comes out with it? Mine had done a little over 15,000 miles. Hope you're luckier than I. I haven't been able to drop the oil yet. Where did you find the new parts for yours?
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