Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The crank came from parts@ducatisanantonio.com . It was cheaper to buy it from the states and get it shipped to the UK.
The con-rod came from a UK SW London dealer. Moto Mecca as I recall.
I got a sump slop plate from http://www.gutsibits.co.uk/pr/Home/index.php

Then it was just gaskets.

Borrowed the clutch aligning too rom a local Suzuki dealer who had a Guzzi franchise when the V11s were new.

Posted

Yeah, one of the main reasons for me to own a silly powerful bike is to make overtaking large trucks on inclines that much safer. That entails full throttle operation, max G force up hill, on a regular basis. Afaik the sump pickup is still in the front on 2002 tenni. Colour me concerned.

Posted

Are you few suffering these bottom end blowups doing silly things to justify the punishment?

Silly is a bit strong. But I had done 8 or 9 track days and spent the other of the 15,000 miles on Sunday ride outs riding it like I stole it. That said, I have put my 750 Breva through the same for longer, although not on track. I have also put Jap bike though the same misery with no ill effects, 4 of them approaching 100,000 miles and a 5th I sold running sweet with 184,000 miles I having dialed in 150,000 of them.

 

With approaching 900,000 miles without an issue, why would one think that a manufacturer would make a bike engine with an oil pick up that can't cope withe bikes own performance after 15,000 miles and need an addition part inside the engine to protect it.

Posted

There's a continuum between fanging around a track and cruising highways.

Pleading the UK version of the 5th amendment on that and leaving it.
  • Like 1
Posted

I have a pressure gauge on my V11 Sport, it drops to zero on hard acceleration if you let the level get a bit low.

The oil pressure switches fail regularly so you may not see a low pressure.

Acceleration uphill with low oil would be inviting disaster,

Get a Roper plate or keep the level topped up.

Posted

+1 on the Roper plate ... these bikes can/should be ridden hard and starvation is a bad thing ... increases the oil capacity also.

 

Gio

Posted

I have wondered about the change in oil capacity. If the sump is lowered (for the plate), how much volume must be added for the pick-up to realize a "full" level?

Posted

I have wondered about the change in oil capacity. If the sump is lowered (for the plate), how much volume must be added for the pick-up to realize a "full" level?

level becomes less critical as the whole idea is reducing the slop off the pickup which is more or less at the bottom. There is minutae of pointscoring discussion over volume and level if you can bothered reading it.

 

Anyway, how are the bearings looking?

Posted

I have wondered about the change in oil capacity. If the sump is lowered (for the plate), how much volume must be added for the pick-up to realize a "full" level?

Pretty sure the oil pickup is part of the bottom of the sump, so any change there to the depth of the sump would not move the pickup off the bottom. And since the oil dip stick does not move when you install the plate it will simply require SLIGHTLY more oil to hit the full mark. Also, when installing the plate it is a great time to confirm the marks on the oil dip stick and make sure they are where you want them as to filling the sump.

 

Besides, the plate is pretty thin and does not make much of a change to sump capacity. The main thing it does it keep what is in the sump IN THE SUMP (not sloshing around the bottom of the crank cases).

Posted

Firstly - I offer profuse apologies to those who may find attention to oil level and it's accurate measurement to be less than important on an air/oil cooled motor ...

 

To clarify earlier comment, based on measurements made during installation of the plate, I (and others - Ryland I think?) concluded that the stock dipstick H mark was reading 12mm low with 3.5 l , so after fitting the plate (which added additional capacity) I made an additional mark "H2" and found that 3.78 l gave a level somewhere between the original H and H2. So I now use the stock H mark as my "low" and H2 as my "high" with a typical refill of ~ 3.7l after over-night draining + filter change. In US Qts I think that's about 3.7 also?

 

So I think most of the increase in volume was from the low-measuring stick correction. This also correlated with early oil changes at the dealer where typically 3l was used (as measured by the stock stick). I attach a couple of pics which show the dipstick relative to the plate -  the new level was measured with a dowel as ~2mm above H and ~13mm below the plate.

 

I ride the bike hard (ie maximum slosh to the rear), have never seen the oil light come on or any evidence of over-fill.

 

Gio

 

 

Picture 037.jpg

Picture 040.jpg

Posted

When checking oil should the bike be on the sidestand or should the bike be upright?  The PO owner put a (higher) yellow mark which I believe is to check it when on the sidestand.  

 

But on my bike it doesn't matter.  It just burps out the oil until it's on the midrange of the dipstick.  It  doesn't seem to burn oil, it just quickly discharges it until if finds a level and stays there.

 

This might be a critical reason to have the Roper Plate.

 

One thing I've learned from this forum, if the oil light comes on or you hear a knock, stop!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...