Zooter Posted January 3, 2015 Posted January 3, 2015 There was an interesting note in another how to about harshness due to not inserting some hex end into some hex hole, so preloading extra . Not seeing it in the pics.
docc Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 Ok, yeah, I found that in the factory assembly of my right fork cartridge. It was not seated in the bottom had a 1/4" (6mm) of play from delivery. Fixing that was one of the great "ah-HAH!" moments of fettling the V11. Fitting the correct springs, using lighter fork oils, and using the 100mm air gap (starting point) have all been brilliant.
Zooter Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 Could use a pictorial of locally hosted pics, including the end assembly.
Tom M Posted January 21, 2015 Posted January 21, 2015 Nice write-up Bjorn! I just want to mention that after installing new springs, spacers and fork oil back in 2010 I found that the oil level in one leg dropped about 20mm after I rode it for a week. I found this out when I went back in to lower the oil level a bit because I wasn't getting full fork travel with the air gap at 100mm. I did pump forks quite a bit to work the air out of the cartridges before putting the springs in, so there must have been some air trapped in a cartridge that didn't work it's way out until I had ridden for a few hours.
cash1000 Posted October 29, 2017 Posted October 29, 2017 I need to replace the left fork seal as its weeping oil. I had the forks fitted with better springs & Racetech valves a few years ago. What I am I likely to find when I dismantle the forks to change the seals & oil. Are the modifications likely to that different from original setup? Is it going to give me any problems?
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