Timing Cover Gasket Replacement

[docc]

That or simply re-time the cam. I've never done that on a Guzzi, so not sure if it requires a degreeing wheel or what?

[Kiwi_Roy]

If you really want to lock up the engine take off the starter and make something to engage the ring-gear.

 

I found the old tensioner bracket got in the way but the cam bearing holder bolt was too long without it. As I didn't have access to some shorter bolts I simply cut off

the bracket with a hacksaw, engraved on it the date new tensioner and chain were installed for the next owner.

 

Before

After - make sure you tuck the spring in behind the bolt lug, you don't want it caught between the covers

[Scud]

...leaking like a '48 Panhead marking it's territory in front of the Boot Hill Saloon during Bike.

 

I want to have a look at the chain,chain tensioner...

 

I've got mine off - the paper gasket was torn and is obvious source of a leak - along with a crusty O-ring on the cam position sensor.

 

I thought I might replace the tensioner while I was in there and bought this part from MG Cycle. But this doesn't look right - I mean I can't see how it would even fit.

 

The Scura's engine has only 12,000 miles and runs well - so I'm OK with the "if ain't broke don't fix it" approach.  But I'm curious if anyone has used this tensioner - and if it would be worth the effort to install now that I'm this far into it for the seal (and clutch... and...)

 

[gstallons]

Was this sold to you to be a direct fit part ?

use ( sparingly ) a good gasket sealant  to aid this on reassembly . Hylomar or Loctite 515 ( I think is the # ) are good products . Use no silicone of any type , this will cause the gasket to creep and come out .

[Scud]

I'm planning to use Permatex blue gasket dressing, which I think is the equivalent of the Hylomar. I got a beefier gasket too.

 

Here's a link to the chain tensioner on MG Cycle's site:  http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_126&products_id=347

[Chuck]

C'mon, Scud.. it'll fit.  Trust me.

Edit:

Oh, forgot. It'll make you think you put a supercharger on it for a few thousand miles..

[czakky]

Last time I had my timing cover off I chickened out when faced with replacing the tensioner....

but I envisioned it fitting.....

 

 

Same style btw.

[Chuck]

Ok, here's how you do it..

Remove the three sprockets, make up some kind of tool to hold the tensioner against the case, and install the three sprockets and chain at the same time. Pretty easy.

Edit: Oh, forgot. It's easy to misplace the little key that drives the oil pump, watch for it when you take things apart.

[Scud]

 It'll make you think you put a supercharger on it for a few thousand miles..

 

For reals? You can actually tell the difference when riding?

 

I have read a few positive things about this tensioner on this forum (and that's why I bought it). But pulling bolts out of the main seal cover makes me nervous (just new territory for me).

 

The picture is a HUGE help. I have a couple rubber-tipped clamps that should serve the purpose.

 

Last time I had my timing cover off I chickened out when faced with replacing the tensioner....

but I envisioned it fitting.....

 

 

Same style btw.

 

I'm feeling a little chicken too.

 

More coaching needed...

 

Can the sprockets only go back on one way - or is there a chance that I could mess up the timing if I do it wrong?

 

Special tools needed? For example, do I need gear pullers? I don't have any pullers, but always willing to consider buying new tools. 

[andy york]

Sprockets should be no problem - they are all "keyed". should be dots on the sprockets also to help timing.

If in doubt, set #1 cylinder top TDC, take a picture, and then proceed. 

It is my understanding that your "new" cam chain tensioner is a "new" version of the old style.
I have one in the tool box. never installed it. 

116,000 miles on the original and still going 

[Chuck]

 

 

For reals? You can actually tell the difference when riding?

Naw.. it'll whine like a supercharger. 

 

Can the sprockets only go back on one way - or is there a chance that I could mess up the timing if I do it wrong?

 

Ok, do this. Before removing the sprockets, bring the S (snot dis side)  cylinder to TDC ready to fire, as if you were going to adjust the valves. You'll see a dot on the cam sprocket and a corresponding dot on the crank sprocket. They'll be lined up. This is how the cam timing is set. Get them one tooth off, and you'll have a bad day..   but that is all there is to it.

When you are reinstalling the chain and sprockets, line up the two dots, wrap the chain around both sprockets..and.. the oil pump sprocket. They are all keyed, so the oil pump has a screwdriver slot in front so you can turn it a little to finesse all three on at the same time. As I mentioned before, that little key for the oil pump is easy to lose track of.

Once they are installed, relax the clamp pressure on the timing chain and you're done.

Why not just cut the chain off and use a chain with a master link? Eeeeew. Some do, but I wouldn't think of grinding inside an engine.    Also, there's a bolt that may or may not clear the crank sprocket when you try to remove the original tensioner. I've read of guys jumping through all kind of hoops to keep from pulling the sprockets. Just do it. It's easier and quicker.  

[guzziart]

Hi All,

So, I think I have a timing chest cover to block leak on my '03 V11 Lemans.  The leak appears to be coming from the area closest to 1st cover bolt down (on rightside) from the very top two cover bolts.   The bolt I'm referring took about an eighth turn to snug up but the leak/seep still exists but perhaps it's residual although I did clean up the area before I put another 50 miles on.  I did read the suggestion herein to loosen & re-torque all the cover bolts and use foot powder for leak detection which makes sense to me.  

I plan on digging into this more when time permits but wanted to ask a couple questions to satisfy my curiousity.  

- Can the timing cover be removed in-bike without removing the engine if I block/support the engine?

- Do you Advocate metal core replacement gaskets like  GU05001230  https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=170_174&products_id=5044  ?  

- Gasket sealer recommendations?

Thank you,

Art

GU05001230

 

[docc]

2 minutes ago, guzziart said:

Hi All,

So, I think I have a timing chest cover to block leak on my '03 V11 Lemans.  The leak appears to be coming from the area closest to 1st cover bolt down (on rightside) from the very top two cover bolts.   The bolt I'm referring took about an eighth turn to snug up but the leak/seep still exists but perhaps it's residual although I did clean up the area before I put another 50 miles on.  I did read the suggestion herein to loosen & re-torque all the cover bolts and use foot powder for leak detection which makes sense to me.  

I plan on digging into this more when time permits but wanted to ask a couple questions to satisfy my curiousity.  

- Can the timing cover be removed in-bike without removing the engine if I block/support the engine?

- Do you Advocate metal core replacement gaskets like  GU05001230  https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=170_174&products_id=5044  ?  

- Gasket sealer recommendations?

Thank you,

Art

GU05001230

 

My understanding:

1) yep

2) yep

3) ? Is a sealer required for the metal core gasket? And then, just on one side?

[guzziart]

Thanks Doc!

I plan on taking a closer look at the Lemans after I start & finish my eldo that has a right fork leak, I'll be taking this thing apart for the 4th time now...I almost think the lower leg may have an undetected crack thus far.  And, after I remove the broken generator bracket mounting stud from the top of the block.  Even though I don't plan to tackle the Lemans for a while yet I wanted some idea of the scope of work I have to look forward to.

Art

 

[guzziart]

Hi All,

Well, maybe I shoulda put some of this in the "What did you do to your v11 today".....

I began the task of timing cover gasket replacement.  I got the regulator, stator, rotor, cooler, horns, header pipes, s. stand and front fairing off.  And, supported engine, loosened front engine mount bolts and I figured I'd check back here before I go further.   The cam cover clearance between engine and frame is close but I see where kiwi roy still has his pipes on so I guess as long as I support the engine, I can remove the 2 front engine mount bolts, remove the cam cover bolts and manipulate the cover off??!!  Or, basically the timing cover can be removed without moving the engine within the frame??!!

Also, can the sleeve that the crank seal rides on slid off while the seal is installed in the cam cover?  I can move the sleeve slightly back and forth but it doesn't seem to want to slid off without some force.  I figured I'd ask before I force something I shouldn't.

Thanks,

Art