Timing Cover Gasket Replacement

[buellish1]

My 28,000 mile  '04 V11 Sport Ballabio is leaking like a '48 Panhead marking it's territory in front of the Boot Hill Saloon during Bike Week.I'm looking for direction in removing the alternator without destroying it..I want to have a look at the chain,chain tensioner and likely will replace the front main seal.Is there any thing else I should look for while I'm in there?It's leaking on the right side near enough to the base gasket that I changed the top end gaskets and no it's not the sensor above the top end.Any help will be much appreciated.

Thanks,

 

Mike

[docc]

Hey, mike! good to hear form you, but sorry the Ballabio is drippy,

 

Look over the oil cooler lines very carefully on the right side. Cleaning everything, then applying a spray "foot powder" will often isolate the leak.

 

In the event you must tear down the timing chest . . . we'll go from there!

[Scud]

Before you go tearing it apart - have you tried loosening all the bolts on the timing cover (one at a time) and retightening them?

 

I had a slow leak on mine and that fixed it. It's a metal gasket, so the gasket is unlikely to go bad.

[buellish1]

Docc,Scud,this has been going on for quite some time and I've already tried the easy stuff,so the decision has been made and I've got everything out of the way on the front of the bike,so I'm looking for help in getting the alternator off.I have a two prong puller,but don't want to damage anything.Joe loaned me a little alternator removal rod that he got from MG Cycle but it appears to be for an earlier model.

[buellish1]

Also I appear to have the paper gasket.

[czakky]

Stator just slides out after you undo those three 4mm? hex bolts, the rotor is just magnetic keep that inside the stator while you're working.

Get yourself some "Hylomar Blue" to dress that gasket it is actually a pretty tough spot to seal with the timing chain whipping around there flinging oil. Have a spare seal for the crankshaft too.

[buellish1]

It took a little tap with a rubber mallet and bob's your uncle it came right off.I'm sure I'll have another question or two along the way.Docc,we road over to the new Guzzi shop in Marietta today and saw Guzzi Steve,he's working there part time.

Thanks guys.

[Quercus]

Hey good luck with that. I had a little leak. Well quite a big one. Turned out the cover had cracked around the hex bolt where it bolts to the frame.

[Tony.JWH]

To dock! That's a great tip using spray foot powder to locate leak. Really useful. Tony uk.

[buellish1]

Well I can't figure out how to post pictures of my cover and timing chest,this board is quit different than what I'm used to.I got the cover off and there is a brown area where oil was getting out.I'm able to move the chain tensioner pretty easily by hand,I wonder how tight it should be?   

[docc]

Sounds like a fresh gasket is gonna be your answer. These painted engines (they're all panted, but the black ones seem to have had more foibles) benefit from some very careful surface prep, Hylomar (as Czakky said), and a methodical star-pattern torque-in-steps. I would Lock-Tite the side stand elements and take time to groom and anchor all the wiring. Probably good to re-tighten every thing you can get to after a few heat cycles or 600 miles.

 

It's the perfect time to inspect the two yellow wires leaving the stator and add a ground from the regulator case to the timing chest; and another ground from the timing chest to the spine frame. TCBTME (There Cannot Be Too Much Earth).

 

If I were in there, I would certainly replace the chain tensioner, but my Sport is rather high miles. So, maybe it's ok that you can push it by hand (?)

[buellish1]

Those are all good tips Docc.I've used Hylomar for sealing threads,I've never tried it on gaskets.You forget I've owned Harleys and Buells for 35 years,Loctite has always been my friend!

[buellish1]

Well guys,I spent a week and a half in the hospital getting emergency surgery and recuperating so had to put off my timing chest project.While I was incarcerated I received an updated metal cover gasket,a cover shaft seal,an aftermarket chain tensioner and a speedometer cable.I discovered that nothing I have will fit over the shaft to reach the 32mm nut on the crankshaft.I purchased two 32mm deep sockets from Northern Tool and after a doctors appointment today will get on with cutting the base off one socket so it can be welded to the other.It needs an 1.125" of clearance so may have to be bored,I'm hoping not.

My question of the day is,what method do you use to keep the engine from rotating.

Thanks guys,

 

Mike 

[Kiwi_Roy]

I tried to find a deep 32mm as well. I ended up using a regular 3/4 drive 32mm. I ground a couple of flats on the outside for a 12" crescent wrench. I put a couple of wraps of masking tape around the shaft to protect it from the socket.

 

To stop the engine rotating:

As I was replacing the chain I simply jammed a brass drift into the sprocket. Putting it back I put the bike in top gear and applied the rear brake.

 

Heres the Old and new side by side.

[buellish1]

"As I was replacing the chain I simply jammed a brass drift into the sprocket. Putting it back I put the bike in top gear and applied the rear brake."

 

I'm replacing the chain tensioner so will be removing all the sprockets.I think I'll need another method of holding the engine.