How to improve turn in?

[docc]

Docc- Best I can tell my bike is 6-2000 build.  

 

S/N 1132xx

 

Looks like mine is a later build than your

Cool. Then, I doubt it has the early (steeper) triple trees. That number isn't easy to see, but can be found looking up under the top triple clamp from the right side behind the headlamp.

 

Did I remember correctly that yours has the finned steel exhaust flanges?

[JBBenson]

My serial frame is 112874

 

I found my top triple part number: 501452

 

I am still confused. Having read all the threads, does this mean I have a "late" part numbered "early" non-canted triple tree?

 

Docc you seem the be the expert on this.....?

[docc]

My serial frame is 112874

 

I found my top triple part number: 501452

 

I am still confused. Having read all the threads, does this mean I have a "late" part numbered "early" non-canted triple tree?

 

Docc you seem the be the expert on this.....?

Ok, so, let's just say I became aware of this along the way . . .   - not the expert by a long shot.

 

I've tried, before, to get *someone* to provide us with a copy of the service bulletin that (purportedly) addresses this triple clamp change . . . *anyone????*

 

Your part number is the same as mine (the later, more "relaxed" geometry). I'm not sure anyone has ever reported the earlier number.

 

JBBenson, what is your build date on the left headstock tag? (your ser# is +233 from my Sport's 3/2000 build)

[JBBenson]

 

My serial frame is 112874

I found my top triple part number: 501452

I am still confused. Having read all the threads, does this mean I have a "late" part numbered "early" non-canted triple tree?

Docc you seem the be the expert on this.....?

 

Ok, so, let's just say I became aware of this along the way . . . - not the expert by a long shot.

 

I've tried, before, to get *someone* to provide us with a copy of the service bulletin that (purportedly) addresses this triple clamp change . . . *anyone????*

 

Your part number is the same as mine (the later, more "relaxed" geometry). I'm not sure anyone has ever reported the earlier number.

 

JBBenson, what is your build date on the left headstock tag? (your ser# is +233 from my Sport's 3/2000 build)

My build date is 4/2000....I wonder how their VIN numbering system works. Is that 233 V11's built in one month, or 233 bikes total for that period? Considering a M-F manufacturing workweek, that makes about 10 bikes a day.

[gstallons]

I don't know if their VIN sequence is meant to be understood ?

[docc]

 

 

My serial frame is 112874

I found my top triple part number: 501452

I am still confused. Having read all the threads, does this mean I have a "late" part numbered "early" non-canted triple tree?

Docc you seem the be the expert on this.....?

Ok, so, let's just say I became aware of this along the way . . . - not the expert by a long shot.

 

I've tried, before, to get *someone* to provide us with a copy of the service bulletin that (purportedly) addresses this triple clamp change . . . *anyone????*

 

Your part number is the same as mine (the later, more "relaxed" geometry). I'm not sure anyone has ever reported the earlier number.

 

JBBenson, what is your build date on the left headstock tag? (your ser# is +233 from my Sport's 3/2000 build)

My build date is 4/2000....I wonder how their VIN numbering system works. Is that 233 V11's built in one month, or 233 bikes total for that period? Considering a M-F manufacturing workweek, that makes about 10 bikes a day.

 

Yeah, mine could have been built anywhere between 2 and 60 days before yours. AFAIK, no one has ever confirmed V11 production numbers.

[LowRyter]

GM/JRD-

 

I am running the big HB hard bags.  Certainly the weight isn't equal to a passenger but quite a bit of aero drag.  They do sit behind the rear axle (see photo).   I get it bad in the wake of a semi.  Of course I am talking interstate speeds at an indicated 95-100.  Yeah, it weaves, not quite a shake.  Much more stable w/o the bags.

 

The red frames have a reputation to weave / shake.  They handle quickly, have aggressive geometry, and probably give up some stability.  

 

I am all ears to hear if there is a fix other than taking off those big fat 40L HBs.  But I suppose I am the only one here that runs those bags on a red frame?

 

Just an update.  I did a test ride today with the bags and 30 + mph head and side wind.   First, the preload was slightly stiffened.  Next I dropped the front tire to 31 lb psi and increased the rear to 41 lb.  Bike seemed pretty stable, got her up to 80-85 mph.  The wind was beating me to death, forget what I said about the flyscreen offering adequate wind protection (thought I haven't ridden a LeMans to know if would be better).

 

Riding with tail wind I got up to a smooth 90.  Perhaps a slight weave when I got off the throttle to make the exit (or perhaps not).  Certainly no hard buffeting.  

 

I didn't encounter any semis, those give me the most problems.

 

On the next trip, I am going to play with the pressures.  Perhaps as low as 28 in the front.  

[docc]

 . . . buddy . . . get those springs. I got all jacked up trying to solve this *softness* with tire pressures. Did not end well. Jus' sayin' . . .

 

It's the springs.

[Chuck]

John sez

 

 

forget what I said about the flyscreen offering adequate wind protection (thought I haven't ridden a LeMans to know if would be better).

I've had both, and prefer the fly screen. What you would have had was a lot of helmet wind noise and buffeting. The only place the LeMans fairing is better, IMHO, is in rain. Oh.. it looks kooler, too.. so that's 2 out of 3. 

[redrider]

Several years ago, the new to me Café Sport would head shake above 80. Turn in was truckish. Michelin tires were the culprit. Roadsmarts cured the shake but the rear would step out then grip. Wear was horrid. Avon Storm tires work best with the stock 180 rear. Not as flickable as the Benelli but super stable and responsive. Long lasting with a heavy happy handle. GoStar racing has an excellent suspension set up tutorial. HB Junior bags and rack. 36 and 42 psi.

[LowRyter]

 . . . buddy . . . get those springs. I got all jacked up trying to solve this *softness* with tire pressures. Did not end well. Jus' sayin' . . .

 

It's the springs.

springs?   You mean "spring", not "springs" (as in rear shock)?

 

I'm adding stiffness to the rear.  There is more preload to go.  I am thinking the front needs no more stiffness.

 

It really doesn't feel like it's under sprung .... 

[LowRyter]

Several years ago, the new to me Café Sport would head shake above 80. Turn in was truckish. Michelin tires were the culprit. Roadsmarts cured the shake but the rear would step out then grip. Wear was horrid. Avon Storm tires work best with the stock 180 rear. Not as flickable as the Benelli but super stable and responsive. Long lasting with a heavy happy handle. GoStar racing has an excellent suspension set up tutorial. HB Junior bags and rack. 36 and 42 psi.

 

assume that the Cafe Sport is different than the red frame?

[guzzigary]

Cafe Sport =04 longer frame + Ohlins

[nobleswood]

Cafe Sport - drool with desire emoji

[docc]

 

 . . . buddy . . . get those springs. I got all jacked up trying to solve this *softness* with tire pressures. Did not end well. Jus' sayin' . . .

 

It's the springs.

springs?   You mean "spring", not "springs" (as in rear shock)?

 

I'm adding stiffness to the rear.  There is more preload to go.  I am thinking the front needs no more stiffness.

 

It really doesn't feel like it's under sprung .... 

 

So, I'm thinking fork springs and shock spring. Motorcycles, in general, are softly sprung. According to one manufacturers' rep I heard quoted, it is for showroom appeal so that the bikes feel "comfortable" when sat on in the showroom.  The spring rates for the RedFrames are, apparently, about right for a 165 pound Italian *ragazzo* in his race leathers. I'm no *ragazzo*, and come in at about 195 pounds in my AeroStich and the Sport springs gave way too much "sag" causing me to add excessive preload. More preload does not make the suspension "stiffer" but only causes it to ride higher and reduces the "extension" travel, or "reach."

 

Respringing my forks with appropriate rate springs (pretty cheap from Traxxion Dynamics) and getting the rear spring right made a huge difference (granted, I also went Öhlins on the rear).  My approach was to weight the front a bit, so I opted for more sag front than rear ( 32mm front/ 25mm rear) and raised the forks in the triple clamps 5mm. I use the least tension on my (Shindy) steering damper.

 

Best method is to get some folks to help measure the sags while you are on the bike in your usual gear with your usual load on board (my Tekno panniers are always packed). Takes two (so buy twice the beer!), one to stabilize the bike and one to do the measurements. (The front can be done with the "Zip-tie method," so you might save a little on beer there . . .)

 

The sags will tell the tale. Using excessive preload to try for the right sag will be revealed comparing laden and unladen sag. Those are things that the experts can explain much better than I.