Sorting out a multiple-owner 2003 LeMans

[docc]

Regarding cleaning brake components, I recall gstallons being absolutely adamant not to use petroleum products (ie: WD40), but only brake cleaning solvent and silicone based lubricants. Any time the calipers are off it is good to work the pistons in and out while cleaning with brake solvent until they all move evenly. The improved brake feel can be remarkable.

[Scud]

Regarding cleaning brake components, I recall gstallons being absolutely adamant not to use petroleum products (ie: WD40), but only brake cleaning solvent and silicone based lubricants. Any time the calipers are off it is good to work the pistons in and out while cleaning with brake solvent until they all move evenly. The improved brake feel can be remarkable.

 

Hmm... so many opinions. And thanks for commenting - brakes are important and I want to do the work right.

 

I was about to use brake cleaner when a trusted person suggested I use WD-40 instead. This person does all his own maintenance and his vehicles, including motorcycles, are always in great condition. He said brake cleaner damages the seals. FWIW - I also dried them with compressed air so as to not leave any extra WD-40 sitting around. My main concern was to be sure the WD-40 never came in anywhere near the pads.

 

So - do you think should I pop 'em off again and reclean with brake cleaner, then lube with silicon spray? 

 

FYI - I did get the pistons all moving freely, but not at exactly the same pace. On the front calipers with 2 pistons clamped, when I pushed one piston in the other went out. I figured that was pretty free.

[Scud]

Got the steering damper mounted properly - thanks again Docc for the alert to the Shindy damper and the photos of how you mounted it. It's smooth as silk (but obviously I haven't road-tested it yet).

 

My electricity lessons continue - ran a battery tender cable to inside the fairing (with lap solder and heat shrink). Don't know why I started using crimp-on connections a while back, soldering is sooooo much better. Put the battery back in, along with all lights (except for front turn signals, which are fairing-mounted.) The big moment - everything actually worked. That means I didn't screw up the 30 amp fuse or the replacement fuse block. Whew.... relief.

 

The PO had rigged some rusty brackets to attach the taillight and license plate to the stock subframe bracket - and no turn signals or plate light. The rust from the brackets had spread to the (now powder coated) stock bracket.

 

 

 

Here's  how the tail section turned out. I shortened the stock fender, blacked out the taillight base and some fasteners, and tinted the lenses (2 coats on the signals and 1 coat on the taillight). After seeing this, I might have to go a shade darker on the Scura    

 

I'm hoping for a few deliveries this week.

[docc]

Looking great! It would have taken me year to get all that done.

 

I hope gstallons chimes in on the brake thing.

[Scud]

Working on getting the Speedhut gauges installed.  The thread "Installing Speedhut Gauges" is useful.

 

I hope to rig up something to mount the oil pressure and voltage gauges either from the fairing bracket (as currently taped on) or on the large plastic panel inside the fairing. For now, just trying to make sure they all work correctly.  So far, I got them to power up, light up, and acquire a GPS signal.

 

 

...and something must be done about those fluid tanks and blue hoses...

[Scud]

It's not going to make it back together this weekend. But here's some progress and/or lessons learned:

 

Valve Adjustment

I just did the quickest and easiest valve adjustment of any vehicle I've ever owned, thanks for the how-to thread. Left was correct, right intake was too tight, right exhaust too loose (using .004 and .006 inch for Intake and Exhaust). 

 

While I was there, I installed new plugs, plug caps, head guards (from Harper's with stainless bolts included), and new exhaust flange nuts and washers - no rust allowed! 

 

 

Should have had some valve cover gaskets on hand.  

 

Title and registration

I finally got it registered today and got a license plate. It was previously registered in Florida (although originally sold in CA and probably never even left the state). But having out-of-state paperwork means more rules. One of which is that a used vehicle must have over 7,500 miles on it or be treated like a new vehicle (PITA). Given that the odometer stopped working around 5,000, my Speedhut odometer arrived with the "corrected" actual mileage (over 7,500) and today I was able to show everything that facilitated box checking and form filling... (good thing the PO left all the Federally required stickers on too).    

 

Shift lever

Learned a few things about this. First, a crash that's strong enough to break the shift lever is also strong enough to bend the pivot bolt and the tab on the frame that the pivot bolt goes into. Once I finally figured that out, got a straight bolt, and straightened the tab, everything went together perfectly (with the welded shift lever) and it shifts well (at least on the stand).

 

The other thing is that shift levers are not interchangeable between early and late V11s. A member here sold me his spare from a bike built in 2000, but it is wider than the one that came off the bike. I'm awaiting one of Harper's aftermarket billet levers now.

 

 

 

I have to also say - Harper's has been fantastic. A guy stayed on the phone with me while I went through a long list of little brackets, bolts, fittings, etc. In addition to a few bigger items (head guards, new kickstand, etc) I got bags and bags of little parts - all clearly labeled with the part numbers so I could sort them out into related mini-project piles - such as fairing, starter cover, and shock reservoir mount. Their online parts diagram/catalog is incredibly useful - and some of the prices for the little brackets and such are surprisingly low.

[theoneandonly]

pillion hangers on round the wrong way in original pics ? 

[dl.allen]

Great thread keep up the good work!  I will  be referring back to it in the future. 

 

What is the story of the exhaust cans?  They were cut, shortened and welded back up?  Are you considering aftermarket?

I have been considering a cross over and cans for mine

[Scud]

pillion hangers on round the wrong way in original pics ? 

 

Those are Guzzi's factory-aftermarket exhaust/pillion peg brackets to go with the Titanium exhaust; they are correctly mounted.

 

Great thread keep up the good work!  I will  be referring back to it in the future. 

 

What is the story of the exhaust cans?  They were cut, shortened and welded back up?  Are you considering aftermarket?

I have been considering a cross over and cans for mine

 

Exhaust cans were also part of the factory Titanium Kit Racing accessory, along with a new ECU. I didn't get the original hangers, exhaust, or ECU. This kit mounts the pipes higher and tighter than stock, which looks cool but makes it impossible to mount standard luggage racks. I think that's why the PO disassembled the cans and shortened them (he used some soft luggage). Now they have the same good-looking angle, but they don't go so close to the turn signals. Anyway, they sound great, but they're not in great shape cosmetically, so I'm going to run them for a while and decide later. The stock crossover is good enough for me - though lots of other people like aftermarket crossovers.

[Tom M]

It's not going to make it back together this weekend. But here's some progress and/or lessons learned:

 

Valve Adjustment

I just did the quickest and easiest valve adjustment of any vehicle I've ever owned, thanks for the how-to thread. Left was correct, right intake was too tight, right exhaust too loose (using .004 and .006 inch for Intake and Exhaust). 

 

 

Hi Scud,

FWIW many here set their valve clearance to .006 intake/.008" exhaust.  When I set mine to .004/.006 my bike would sometimes stall after being run hard in hot weather.  Opening up the valve lash and balancing the throttle bodies cured that issue for me.

 

Here's an quick & easy way to adjust your valve lash for the next time since you shouldn't have to retorque the head again.

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17247&page=2&hl=%2Bvalve+%2Badjust&do=findComment&comment=191378

[Scud]

Great thread keep up the good work!  I will  be referring back to it in the future. 

 

 

 

You should also read through Chamberlin's restoration thread. I "followed" the thread, because I keep referring back to it.

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18247&hl=

 

 

 

It's not going to make it back together this weekend. But here's some progress and/or lessons learned:

 

Valve Adjustment

I just did the quickest and easiest valve adjustment of any vehicle I've ever owned, thanks for the how-to thread. Left was correct, right intake was too tight, right exhaust too loose (using .004 and .006 inch for Intake and Exhaust). 

 

 

Hi Scud,

FWIW many here set their valve clearance to .006 intake/.008" exhaust.  When I set mine to .004/.006 my bike would sometimes stall after being run hard in hot weather.  Opening up the valve lash and balancing the throttle bodies cured that issue for me.

 

Here's an quick & easy way to adjust your valve lash for the next time since you shouldn't have to retorque the head again.

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17247&page=2&hl=%2Bvalve+%2Badjust&do=findComment&comment=191378

 

 

Thanks, I had seen that alternate setting mentioned, but I didn't understand the issue. I didn't re-torque the heads, so maybe I should do that, just to be on the safe side, and try those looser settings as hard running in hot weather seems very likely.    I recently built one of those DIY manometers - need to try it out.

[czakky]

Scud, the hardest working man on V11Lemans.com! Keep it up buddy!

[docc]

Scud, the hardest working man on V11Lemans.com! Keep it up buddy!

Right?

 

And now that you have so many new friends, you'll need a fleet of V11 . . . one of each!

[JRD]

Scud- For what its worth regarding the valve clearances- I purchased my 02'Lemans this past Feb. and it only showed just over 3,000 miles on the clock. Im fairly certain this was the actual mileage as the tires had 2001 manufacture date codes and other than the dry rot cracks, looked almost new. The bike ran great for the short rides I did around home so other than fluids, I left everything alone. While riding over to Daytona for Bike Week the bike developed the dreaded "hiccup" and almost stalled numerous times after getting off the expressways and when stopped in traffic. When I got home I checked the valves and sure enough, the right side was at .004"I and .006"E. The left side was at .002"I and .006"E. I adjusted both sides to .006/.008 and haven't had a problem since and the bike just feels like it runs so much smoother. I also synced the T/B but they were not that far off so it is my belief that the valve clearance was the major cause of the hiccup when it got hot. With you living out in California, I'm sure your air temps are similar to what we experience down here in Florida which may also be a contributing factor when the bikes get hot. Hope this helps if there is any doubt in your mind as to which valve specs to use

 

Jerry

[Scud]

 

Scud, the hardest working man on V11Lemans.com! Keep it up buddy!

Right?

 

And now that you have so many new friends, you'll need a fleet of V11 . . . one of each!

 

 

Yeah - like what would I do if I Docc and Czakky came to visit at the same time?

 

This is all play-time for me. The hard part is figuring out what to do or how to do it - most of which is well-documented on this site. So I'm trying to point out threads that I find useful, and add to the knowledge base if I figure out something new or different.

 

But holy smokes, the Speedhut gauges are taking me a lot longer than I imagined. I'm pretty slow with electrical work (because I don't understand it well enough yet) - and trying to use the stock (unmodified) case for the tach and speedo has required more than one trip to the hardware store and some online ordering.  Maybe I can get those "dialed in" this week.

 

Plus - I'm scheming on a ride to Denver in early June for work (instead of flying). It would be nice to get the LeMans sorted in time and then give it a little endurance test.