Sorting out a multiple-owner 2003 LeMans

[Tom M]

I've had the low rpm cough problem a few times over the years.  It was always corrected by making sure that the exhaust was tight at the head and doing a tuneup.  I'm a fan of the "Micha Method" of tuning because it's simple and it works.  My bike pulls cleanly from idle to redline, but I do have a PCIII so maybe that helps.  The standard TPS adjusting instructions don't work on my bike.  You might want to give this a try:

 

The Micha Method...
Step one - Set your valves to world settings (.15mm/.006" intake, .2mm/.008" exhaust)
Step two - Set your air bleed screws to open 1 full turn
Step three - Synch throttle bodies at just off idle (around 1800 rpm)
Step four - Set idle to 1100 using left idle screw adjuster only
Step five - Set TPS to 3.6 degrees (530mV)
Step six - Ensure idle trim is set to zero. This requires an AXEONE dealer tool, VDST, or GuzziDiag software.

[Scud]

Thanks guys, I'll get the GuzziDiag figured out eventually. The hiccup problem is minor and easy to ride around, but I'd still like to get it sorted. For comparison purposes, I noticed that my Scura was at .008 and .010/.011 (following dealer's break-in service). When I tightened up recently to "world" settings I noticed a couple small hiccups, which had not previously been a problem.

 

FWIW - I figure the clearance is set when:

1. Specified numbered gauge has some friction
2. One size smaller slides in easily
3. One size bigger cannot be put in

[docc]

You forgot to say "stone cold!"

[Scud]

Figured it's about time to update this thread.

 

I got the re-worked gauges installed, but am now having some uncertainty regarding oil pressure reading, which I posted elsewhere. I am super-stoked with the look of the gauges in black, the remote button, logos, soft blue lights at night...

 

 

One thing I'm not pleased with: the black anodized plug guards (from Harper's) are already fading and discoloring towards purple-ish. No big deal, because I planned to include them next trip to the powder-coaters anyway - but just a head's up that the color doesn't even last for 1,000 miles.

 

Thy Hyperpro 460 shock is a real treat. That, along with a new Pirelli Angel GT up front made a huge positive difference in handling. I also like the black spring instead of the white one. 

 

While I was at it, I put an 83-degree angle valve stem on the front wheel (so easy... can't recommend these strongly enough). And what has to be the best coolness-per-dollar thing ever:  reflective stripe tape on the wheels, only $10. 

 

 

I've been commuting on it all month. It's still got a small, occasional hiccup... just a minor irritant... but it will get sorted... all part of the fun.

[JBBenson]

There is a Do-It-Best on York in Eagle Rock that has an amazing selection of metric stainless fasteners.

 

It has been invaluable to finding, for example, button head allen screws in all lengths, which are impossible to find anywhere. I prefer shopping in person instead of mail order when possible, so I can eyeball any needed match.

 

A bit of a hike from Carlsbad, but maybe there is another one near you.

[czakky]

Plug guards?.. Any way that bike is happy you found it. Looks awesome.

[czakky]

Nm I see it.

[Scud]

Thought it was time for a sorting update. I've been busy fretting over oil pressure:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19114

But meanwhile, I've been commuting and taking some short rides. Everything seems to be fine. I did a leisurely 200 miles today with a buddy who has a Harley. Played accordion a little - catch the traffic on the curves, wait for Harley on the straights, catch, wait, catch, wait... kind of fun game actually.

 

As for running smoothly, I did not manage to tune-out the minor hiccup. Then I thought - why not disconnect the temperature sensor and see what happens? That's how the bike was when I got it; it was running great then.

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18960

Whaddya know - it runs sweet with the sensor disconnected. "If ya can't beat 'em, join 'em." I did test the resistance of the engine and air temperature sensors, both were at 3.3k ohms at room temperature. Not sure what's going on here, but I'm also getting 40.7 MPG (per today's ride) so I guess I'll leave it unhooked.

 

In other news, I finally sold my Honda CB350-Four. So it may be play time again soon. The fiberglass belly pan (Ghezzi-Brian) and billet levers (Harpers) are awaiting reddening and darkening (respectively).

 

 

And I set a new record today. Three whole pies...    Couldn't even do that on my ex-BMW RT.

[docc]

I've heard of a "three dog night" (they don't have those in So.Cal.  ), but a Three Pie Ride? That ought to worth some motor-minutes!

 

​What does guzzidiag say the ECU is seeing from the Engine Temperature Sensor?

[Scud]

 

​What does guzzidiag say the ECU is seeing from the Engine Temperature Sensor?

 

Guzzidiag says: "Scud, you will never find a COM port and OBD cable to make me talk.... hahahahaha" (sinister super-villian laugh)

[Stick]

I've heard of a "three dog night" (they don't have those in So.Cal.  ), but a Three Pie Ride? That ought to worth some motor-minutes!

 

​What does guzzidiag say the ECU is seeing from the Engine Temperature Sensor?

 

If you leave it unplugged, I'm purdy sure it leaves the ECU in the enrich mode (cold motor).  At least that's what the H20 temp sender does on a Ducati.  These have the same inverse resistance/temp. curves.   They're probably the same parts.  If you want, you can lie to the ECU with a 220 ohm resistor.   The ECU will think the oil is at 207 F.    But it might be hard starting cold, if you leave in in there for the next day...

[Scud]

It's been a while since I updated this project thread, but I'm deep into this bike again.

So here's a little update and some questions:

 

Update - some powdercoating has been happening - and more to come. Rocker covers, plug guards, alternator cover already on, and more to come. She's also been the beneficiary of a few nicer bits I took off my '02 LeMans parts bike. Stay tuned for pics once it's all back together.

 

Some more evidence that the bike may have more miles (or more abuse) than I thought: The swingarm bearings are a bit gritty feeling, and the bearing pins show signs of overheating. Fortunately, the parts bike's swingarm, bearings, and pins are near perfect. The parts bike rear wheel is also in better shape with an excellent brake rotor, smoother bearings, and even a bit nicer paint. Things are getting queued up for a swap (after porkchop powdercoating). But I'm a little unclear on two things leading up toward reassembly:

 

Questions:

1. Driveshaft:  Here's what I'm tempted to do and why: Use the front half of the driveshaft from the 02 parts bike and the back half from the 03 LeMans. Reason - those two U-joints are in excellent condition. The 03 front is clearly worn (I can feel sort of a flat spot when I move the U-joint) and the 02's rear takes more effort to move than the other two good U-joints (it's also a bit rusty and the O-ring is broken). My hesitation - I've seen so much about lining up the paint marks that I am apprehensive about mixing driveshaft halves. However, I did push them together and they fit and feel exactly the same to me - whether I line up the paint marks or not - they slide together smoothly in every position and combination that I tried. Am I missing something here?
2. Reaction Rod Bushings: The bushings in the stabilizer arm that connects the top of the final drive to the frame look cracked and I would like to replace these. Harper's only shows the entire arm available, not the bushings.  Does anyone know where to buy these bushings and how to replace them?  Here's a link to Harper's for reference (it's part #1 in the diagram):  http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/2000-up-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/v-11-cat-1100-2003-2004/transmission-complete-i-en-v11-cat-1100-2003-2004.html

I already posted this picture elsewhere, but here's a link to it again:

 

[JBBenson]

It's been a while since I updated this project thread, but I'm deep into this bike again.

So here's a little update and some questions:

 

Update - some powdercoating has been happening - and more to come. Rocker covers, plug guards, alternator cover already on, and more to come. She's also been the beneficiary of a few nicer bits I took off my '02 LeMans parts bike. Stay tuned for pics once it's all back together.

 

Questions:

[*]Driveshaft: Here's what I'm tempted to do and why: Use the front half of the driveshaft from the 02 parts bike and the back half from the 03 LeMans. Reason - those two U-joints are in excellent condition. The 03 front is clearly worn (I can feel sort of a flat spot when I move the U-joint) and the 02's rear takes more effort to move than the other two good U-joints (it's also a bit rusty and the O-ring is broken). My hesitation - I've seen so much about lining up the paint marks that I am apprehensive about mixing driveshaft halves. However, I did push them together and they fit and feel exactly the same to me - whether I line up the paint marks or not - they slide together smoothly in every position and combination that I tried. Am I missing something here?

Use the two halves and get the driveshaft balanced. I just had it done on my BMW 318Ti and it really helps with vibration, and should insure it doesn't shake itself to pieces at high speed. There's a place here in North Hollywood on Chandler that does it, old salt who has been doing it for ages. Any good hot rod shop should be able to, or know someone who can.

 

Make sure that you note whether the u-joints are "in phase", meaning they are aligned the same way, or "out of phase" meaning at 90 degrees to each other. I would guess out of phase, as this would allow either end to articulate smoothly at any one time.

 

Tell whoever does the work how it should be. Some lazy balancing shops just keep moving the u-joints further out of phase until it balances, meaning you end up with the u-joints at 37 degrees to each other or something like that. Probably doesn't matter but I like things clean. They will mark it with new paint.

[Scud]

Thanks JB - good point on the balancing, I didn't think about that.

 

For the record, this is the first time I separated the LeMans' driveshaft; before I separated it, I noticed that the yellow marks were about 180-degrees off (not lined up as they are supposed to be). If the yellow marks are there for balancing (not alignment), then the bike has been running an unbalanced driveshaft for longer than I've had it. ...and wouldn't ya know ...one of the U-joints is bad. It also happens to be the bloody-farking U-joint, the one that is hard to access. 

 

Also for the record - it sure is easier to lube with the shaft removed. I flushed the U-joints till nothing but clean grease was oozing out the cracks - that's way more than I would have done with it on the bike.

[chamberlin]

1. Reaction Rod Bushings: The bushings in the stabilizer arm that connects the top of the final drive to the frame look cracked and I would like to replace these. Harper's only shows the entire arm available, not the bushings.  Does anyone know where to buy these bushings and how to replace them?  Here's a link to Harper's for reference (it's part #1 in the diagram):  http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/2000-up-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/v-11-cat-1100-2003-2004/transmission-complete-i-en-v11-cat-1100-2003-2004.html

 

 

 

Here you go Scud!

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18247&page=5&do=findComment&comment=194827

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18247&page=5&do=findComment&comment=194919

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18247&page=5&do=findComment&comment=194992