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Posted

Today's plan was clutch, Roper plate and some other little stuff. Given that I was uncertain about the mileage, I was curious to see the condition of the flywheel. It looks about the same as the flywheel from my 12,000 mile parts bike - no visible signs of wear on the teeth.

 

Clutch bits top to bottom:

  1. Parts removed from LeMans and not re-used
  2. Parts installed - pressure plate and back plate from parts bike, new discs and intermediate plate.
  3. Leftovers from parts bike

The clutch plates I removed from the LeMans were thin, but not worn all the way down. However, the springs were MUCH softer than the new springs. I think the clutch might have gone a bit longer if the springs were still strong. Therefore - probably a good idea to replace the springs whenever one does a clutch.

 

IMG_5019.jpg

 

 

Engine is still out and I have a little problem:

 

This tab broke off the stator while I was cleaning up (I left the generator connected when I dropped the motor, there is plenty of wire). 

 

IMG_5024.jpg

 

But I still have the complete engine from the parts bike - all the fins broke off the rotor when it crashed (the alternator cover was dented in just enough to snap all the fins). The stator seems to be OK.

 

IMG_5025.jpg

 

I haven't worked on one of these before - does it seem like I might be able to get one good alternator from these two? Is it OK to swap stators without also changing rotors?

Posted

Just pulled the 2 stators - dang, they are rusty.

 

[url=http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/v11com%20misc%20photos%20posted/LeMans%20ProjectIMG_5029.jpg

 

Assuming I can swap them - does anyone know how or if they should be cleaned? Sorry for the basic questions - never had occasion to get into one of these before.

Posted

No expert advice here. I've only used electronics cleaner over the windings, but I don't know if that's a good idea.

 

I've heard there can be issues with the magnetism keeping them separated from the rotor? :huh2:

 

Curious that the (fragile) yellow wires are red on the stator on the right . . .

Posted

Yes, the shop manual warns not to leave the rotor and stator separated - or they can de-magnetize. I put them right back on after taking the photo.

 

So... I just got the motor back in, and am moving on to the Roper Plate part of my long day of wrenching. Barring advice to the contrary, I think I will swap stators and clean them with some De-Oxit spray. Parts bike to the rescue!!!

Posted

I don't see an issue with it. I've never heard of different rotor/stator combos on the v11. Either way not too bad of a job to swap if it doesn't work.

Posted

Scud, I chased tuning issues a long time until I finally got Guzzidag going and found the previous owner had been messing with the CO trim.  I move it around a bit and eventually just put it back to zero.  Also, the bike is extremely sensitive to exhaust leaks.  I went with the machined metal bushings in the cross over to get everything sealed up.  the 3000 rpm hiccup finally left after that. If  I use ethanol gas it will pop once in a while.  With premium non ethanol it runs perfect.

 

How did you set your sag up on the suspension?  I had my Sachs re built by race tech and haven't got around to adjusting it yet.

 

Thanks and great work on that bike!

Posted

Thanks. It's getting better and better - can't wait to try out the new clutch. It pulls way firmer than it did before. Someday I will get around to learning GuzziDiag... too busy with major mechanical issues lately. Last weekend front and rear brakes on the truck. Scura is up for a clutch next. I need a good, long ride.

 

For suspension - go to the Reference Section of this site, then Fileshare, then Öhlins manuals, then download the pdf for the front fork or rear spring. You'll see a section in there about setting spring pre-load. It has excellent illustrations about how to measure sag - then you adjust preload to try to get sag to be within correct range. 

Posted

Hey Scud ............. your a busy guy.

Thought I would toss this one in your direction............ would you happen to know of anyone with a Stucci belly cowl for a Griso or of where I might acquire one or similar?

 

Regards.

Posted

New sidestand with fresh powdercoat. :ninja:

 

IMG_5036.jpg

 

I've been waiting to install this till I got the Roper Plate.

 

Also installed a sidestand switch. The PO had bypassed that switch, and the sidestand was missing the button that activates the switch. It had ground off when the bike was down - and I missed that on my pre-purchase inspection.

 

I know a lot of people bypass this switch, and I guess it sometimes fails. But I did ride off one time with the stand down; fortunately I just nicked it on a mild left. I think I will shorten the wire on the plug from the old switch and keep it on the bike.

  • Like 2
Posted

Test-fit the Ghezzi-Brian belly pan, which has been sitting on the shelf for a long time. Looks kind of good in white, but I think it will probably turn red later. I confess to nudging the hammer into the picture...  :glare:

 

IMG_5039.jpg

 

Recently received the Ghezzi-Brian rear fender - got that installed too. The kit is easier to install now, because the mounting holes are pre-drilled in the fender. It still has it's imperfections (see this thread for discussion) but since it arrived from Italy in a re-used wine box wrapped in Moto Guzzi branded packing tape, that makes everything OK. 

 

IMG_5040.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

I want a belly pan. Well, not for me, but for the Sport. Did you order direct from Ghezzi-Brian?

Posted

Yes, ordered direct. I'm not aware of any US-based importer. They offer a carbon fiber version as well as the paintable, fiberglass one in the picture above.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

How's the feel of the new clutch btw?

I know you've been chasing your tail a bit with the lemans. Not sure if you've got a proper ride on the new clutch or not. I think in the next winter or two I might be in for that job...

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