Jump to content

Sorting out a multiple-owner 2003 LeMans


Scud

Recommended Posts

I think I’m the 3rd owner and I plan to use this bike as a commuter, tourer, and guest-bike.  But it needs some TLC first.  I’ll probably put most of the stock parts back on while sorting out the functional issues – and I think a few modifications are in order, maybe some shiny things...   

 

Feel free to make suggestions, observations, jokes, music recommendations, etc. This should be a fun project. 

 

Here’s my assessment of the current situation:

 

The good:

  • Strong running, crisp shifting, almost everything works.
  • A big box of almost all stock parts that were removed.
  • Minimal wear on seat, grips, and front brake rotors supports a low-mileage claim (odometer broken at about 5,000, PO estimates that actual mileage is less than 10,000).
  • Should clean up nicely – it’s kind of greasy now.
  • Moto Guzzi Kit Racing ECU and Titanium cans.  It’s a growler. 

 

The bad (or not my preference):

  • Unfortunately, the cans were cut down a few inches and are a little beat up (oh, but they sound nice...).
  • I didn’t figure out that the bike had been down till I got it home. I missed the tell-tale flat spot on the clutch lever ball, and the welded shift lever in the spare parts box. I think it was just a low-speed spill on the left.  (PO says he didn't lay it down, so must have been earlier.)
  • Altered riding position/controls (all to fit PO’s preferences for more upright riding position - and quite comfy if you like sitting upright)
    • Bars raised and pushed back. This required rerouting of cables and hoses.
    • Footpegs and controls moved forward and lower, which also involved relocation of shock reservoir, brake reservoir, removal of starter cover, and maybe some other surprises.
    • Rear lowered about 2 inches (compared to my Scura) with shorter aftermarket spring in rear (fork tubes also raised a bit in triple clamps)
    • Sidestand ground shorter (I guess it was too upright after the rear was lowered 
  • Stickers on paint (already removed): only one was covering a poorly retouched scratch (on the front fender).
  • Clutch and side-stand switches missing. (Wouldn’t it be ironic if one of these was the cause of the crash?)
  • K&N pods installed – and although it runs well, it does not appear to have been tuned correctly (oil temp sensor disconnected as a “cheat”).
  • Rear brake rotor is grooved, pads are thin, fluid was low – suggesting a habit of using mostly the rear brake.
  • Some creative wiring. (My weakest area...time to start learning.)

 

Here are some "as purchased" pics:

 

IMG_2961.jpg

 

IMG_2958.jpg

 

IMG_2972.jpg

 

IMG_2957.jpg

 

IMG_2959.jpg

 

IMG_2982.jpg

 

IMG_2979.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What I've done so far:

 

I had an issue a couple days ago (which I wrote about in another thread) - I had plugged in the oil temperature sensor, which had been disconnected. At hiccuping low idle, the oil light flashed on (and off at normal idle). 

 

Based on some helpful suggestions, I did an oil change, dropped the sump, and cleaned the screen. The screen was clear, oil appeared in decent condition. But there was a CarQuest oil filter (glad that's gone...). I used 10w-40 Maxima synthetic (although the manual specifies 5w-40) and a correct UNI filter.

 

After the oil change, the oil light went out almost instantly when I started the bike. However, it does flash on if the idle drops below 1,000 RPM - I adjusted the idle up - maybe 1,200 or 1,300 - and the light stayed out. I'm not going to ride it again till I figure out if I have a bad oil pressure sensor or another problem. It will also need a proper tune-up following re-installation of the stock airbox.

 

I ordered a set of gauges from Speedhut: GPS Speedo, Tach, Oil Pressure, Voltmeter. I figure I can find somewhere to mount the oil and volt gauges behind the fairing. Interesting that the 2003 dash (compared to 2002) gives a second turn indicator at the expense of a warning light for the charging system (I wouldn't make that trade). BTW - all guages are 15% off at Speedhut through the end of March.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest bike?  count me in.  I am planning a trip to the west coast.

 

San Diego to Vancouver.

 

:grin:

 

I'd love to join for at least part of the way, schedule permitting. Let me know when you're headed this way. You should go to Mexico too, then it will be a Mexico to Canada ride, eh? Tacos in Tecate and Beaver Tails in BC.

 

I hope you won't mind that I removed all these parts from the foot controls and put the foot pegs, rear brake lever, rear brake master cylinder and fluid tank back where they belong.

 

IMG_2994.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

First little batch of questions:

 

The bike has an Odyssey drycell battery. I know it's supposed to have an AGM type of battery. Is this drycell OK to keep in there for a while longer or is it likely to cause problems? 

 

IMG_2993.jpg

 

I need a few parts that I have not been able to find. I already posted this in the classifieds/wanted. But if anyone has one of these items or knows where I can find a used one, I'd be much obliged:

  1. Gear shift lever and pivot bolt (through porkchop, through lever, to tab on frame). The lever I have was welded and the pivot bolt is slightly bent so it won't thread back into the frame-tab correctly. (I did find a billet lever for $159 at Harper Moto)
  2. Rear brake lever return stopper - the cylindrical bit that keeps the brake pedal from bouncing up.
  3. Sidestand - ideally with switch and wire, but just the stand is fine too. The sidestand on the bike was shortened a bit and I'm concerned it will lean too far when I restore the original ride height.
  4. Clutch hand lever - (I know I can get a new one from MG Cycle)
  5. Left-hand handlebar tube - for clip-ons. 

Also feel free to post links if you know where to purchase any of these items.    

 

Edit - all parts procured.

Edited by Scud
Link to comment
Share on other sites

By the way sometimes it's cheaper to buy brand new parts then to buy them new on eBay or anywhere else. I know this for a fact. In CA you have a very good dealer who charges honest prices and doesn't want your first born. If you have parts fight and know your part numbers try to order from Pro Italia.

 

Iam in no way associated with Pro Italia and actually order from my local dealer where I get my dealer discount

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you want cheap and crappy OEM lever then I suggest you to order same thing but aftermarket. Should not cost you more then $25-30. But if you want really good levers then I recommend pazzo or fp racing levers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@FalcoLion - thanks for the dealer tip. I spent some time on the phone with a guy at HarperMoto today - super helpful and he was able to find some of the parts I want. He is going to try to find some other parts for me (the handle bar tube looks like it might be a challenge). I'll check Pro Italia too. My local shop is GP Motorcycles - good people.

 

I assume you mean Pazzo Racing for the levers.  I wanted to put short levers on my Scura - ordered some aftermarket ones and was so dissatisfied that I returned them. I just sent an inquiry to Pazzo, they don't list the V11 Sports on their "select your bike" list.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Robin Trower and I stripped the bike a bit this evening to get it ready for a deep-cleaning and new gauges. Also flushed the nasty front brake fluid.

 

IMG_2996.jpg

 

BTW - I've read a number of posts in which people mention how hard it is to remove the quick-connectors from the 2003+ fuel tank. I found that an 8 or 9 mm open-end wrench fits over the tube and provides enough leverage to get the connector moving. Easy-peasy, hope it helps.

 

Also dropped by the powder coater at lunch time to pick up several powder coated sample washers in interesting possible colors....... I like one that is about the same grayish-bronze as the Moto Guzzi logo on the tank. That could work for a bunch of small parts.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is the correct AGM replacement battery for the original Spark. It is dated August 2006, so I'm not sure I would expect much more life out of it.

 

Having bled your front brake, take the time to work each and every piston in and out of the calipers while cleaning them. This simple maintenance task makes a real difference in braking performance and feel.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Docc.  I'm going to follow the handy checklists:

 

Wheels off maintenance checklist  - The rear brake is dragging a bit, which accounts for the wear I noticed.  Apparently, this is a common problem if maintenance is neglected. New pads on order.

 

Tank off maintenance checklist

 

...and tuning after it's all cleaned up and reassembled. That should give me a fresh start with the bike.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the levers, I prefer the ASV to the CRG/Pazzo-knock-offs, but any of these will work.   I don't remember off the top of my head the exact models but our master cylinders (Bremob, Gold-Line Brembo non-radial) are common among Ducati/Aprilia ranks....

 

Falco Lion, would be very nice if you shared this non-proprietary information with us and saved us a bit of searching... ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Been chipping away at the project, including few hours today:

  • Degreased – 30 minute soak in Simple Green, spray down with water.
  • Then another soak/clean-up with silicon spray, which brought the dingy gray engine cases, swingarm, and other parts back to a nice, rich black - also great for the wiring harness.
  • Main ground and starter connections cleaned and protected with cocoa-butter scented petroleum jelly
  • Stock spring re-installed and set to factory spec, which raised the rear of the bike noticeably.
  • Rear wheel off, freed caliper so it does not drag, bled clutch, clean, lube, etc. (maintenance checklist)
  • Next up – remove front wheel – which should clean up as nicely as the rear.

Bought a wiring harness on e-bay for $15. Needed some connectors, caps, etc. It’s also nice to have a complete harness on the ground to see how things are laid out – since I have decided to learn more about wiring.

 

Discovered lots of “previous owner secrets” – won’t go into all the details, but my favorite was the use of a garden hose washer in place of a vibration damper. Cheap and effective… but not going back in during reassembly.

 

While I have almost all the main stock parts, I’m missing a number of fasteners. The HarperMoto website is amazing. I hadn’t used that before – detailed parts diagrams with part numbers and prices.  So helpful.

 

 

IMG_3011.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...