moto fugazzi Posted March 30, 2015 Posted March 30, 2015 Has anybody replaced one on a V11S? I'm looking at upgrading to the EME stator and RR, which would give me a 450W system. Does the rotor need to be removed? Any special tools needed? Ken On a side note, the guy at EME recommended connecting a relay that would tap off one of the coils and connecting the proper wire to the battery, and the other wire to the black wire (I'm assuming reference wire) in order for the RR to get a better voltage reading. Interesting.
Kiwi_Roy Posted March 30, 2015 Posted March 30, 2015 Lately I have been suggesting picking up the Voltage reference from the ECU relay R4 It's already doing what the EME guy suggested. The regulator only draws 15 milliamps so it should have no effect on the ECU. The ECU draws very little current so the Voltage after relay 4 should be identical to the battery. I no longer have a Ducati Energia or that's what I would do. The battery Voltage may end up a tad lower but that's easily fixed with a resistor or diode to reproduce the ~ 1/2 Volt the regulator is used to.
moto fugazzi Posted March 31, 2015 Author Posted March 31, 2015 Lately I have been suggesting picking up the Voltage reference from the ECU relay R4 It's already doing what the EME guy suggested. The regulator only draws 15 milliamps so it should have no effect on the ECU. The ECU draws very little current so the Voltage after relay 4 should be identical to the battery. I no longer have a Ducati Energia or that's what I would do. The battery Voltage may end up a tad lower but that's easily fixed. R4 is where I have my volt meter connected. Should be easy enough to tap into that wire for me. That's if I go with the EME RR and stator...I currently have the ESR-510 wired up. Thanks again, Roy! Any tips about the stator? Ken
Kiwi_Roy Posted March 31, 2015 Posted March 31, 2015 The stator will slip off without removing the rotor but wouldn't the EME have a new rotor? I have had the rotors off, I don't have anything special from memory there's a thread inside the rotor which you use to jack the rotor off with. When you build up some pressure smack the bolt on the end with a hammer and it will fly off. Personally I think the OEM alternator has more than enough output, the regulator and flakey wiring is the weak link. Here's the tool MG Cycle sell to take a Bosch wound rotor off, Harpers sell just a length of rod. others say part of an allen key http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80&products_id=1632 I'm pretty sure the permanent magnet rotors are similar. Leave it for a bit and someone will chime in with the correct procedure.
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