Failed steering damper 2002 Tenni

[Tom M]

Here's a thread with the steering damper dimensions and Shindy part number. 

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14385&hl=shindy&do=findComment&comment=155021

[H-E-Ross]

I realized my damper needed replacement because it was weeping. In the end I replaced it with the OEM Bitubo. I left it backed off and found it to be perfectly acceptable. I never had undesirable effects with the steering in any of the road conditions I encountered. (Though in disclosure, my speed never exceeded 120 MPH on smooth roads)

[Zooter]

This is my first bike equipped with steering damper. I have paid it scant attention. Reading this thread I wonder if it's part of how generally uncomfortable I am round town, not just my long time off bikes.

 

How fast do you need to go to get speed wobbles without one? I am more into fast overtaking in straight lines than setting land speed records or trying to grind pegs. I don't get chicken strips so much as chicken steaks. The back tyre gets to looking like it starred in a burnout competition. 100mph is instant loss of licence here and there's a revenue collection agent in the hollow of every straight.

 

It isn't unusual to come across substandard road conditions mid corner here. Is that where a functional damper will help maintaining course?

[docc]

"revenue collection agent"

 

Reports of weave on early Sports were rather common largely due to their soft springs, rear weight bias and soft tires (IMO).

 

This led MG to lengthen the frame, abandon the early Pirelli Dragon Corsa and even (reportedly) redesign the early triple clamps.

 

Weave, being a low amplitude oscillation of the whole motorcycle at higher speeds, was worsened by increasing the damping on the steering damper leading most riders to adjust it to the minimum damping, or even remove it entirely.

 

Wobble, a high amplitude oscillation of the front end, has not been reported substantially on the V11, yet is the condition intended for a steering damper to control. This type of oscillation is most often encountered exiting a corner under hard acceleration which lightens the front allowing road imperfections to introduce the front end oscillation. Uncontrolled, this is the dreaded "tank-slapper."

 

There has been a lot of discussion about this here, and elsewhere, but a couple things are notable regarding the V11:

 

If your damper leaks, it's messy. If your damper is too excessive, you may get more high speed weave. Actual wobble has never been much of a problem on the long, lazy V11. And, finally/most importantly: setting the proper sag with correct spring rates for your weight and style of riding is one of the two or three most rewarding things you can do to your V11!

[Onibaka]

docc, where can I read about the settings of the sag with spring rates,please? I never did the setting since I bought my V11. Thank you for response!

[docc]

GuzziMoto has made some thorough posts on this topic. Perhaps he would share his wisdom again here, or you could search his "replies" witht he advanced search tool.

 

Otherwise, I could take a stab at the basics.

[GuzziMoto]

I am short on time, but here is the quick and dirty.

We pulled the steering damper on the wifes V11 when it failed. The failure was such that it caused the bike to wobble. We intended to replace the damper later, but the bike handled better without it. So we left the steering damper off. The wife rides pretty hard, the roads are not always racetrack smooth where we are, yet the bike does not do anything wrong without a steering damper. In fact it works better, the steering is lighter and you get more feedback. To some the increase in feedback might be a bad thing, but we like it.

I will point out that her bike has improved forks (home made dampening improvements) and a Penske shock. If you don't have a steering damper you do need to put more effort into suspension set up. You don't need a Penske shock, but you should at least set sag. That is not a Guzzi thing, that applies to all motorcycles. Standard sag settings to me are, always measured from full extension, 10 - 15 mm of sag from just the weight of the bike and 25 - 35 mm of sag with the rider on the bike. If you set your sag with you on the bike where you want it and you don't have enough sag from just the weight of the bike you need stiffer springs. If the opposite is true and you end up with too little sag from just the weight of the bike you need a softer spring.

[stewgnu]

I was riding with my damper backed right off ever since I purchased the machine- engaging it even a wee bit felt like steering in treacle so I left it off.

Then I replaced the head bearings and now she does benefit from a couple of turns on the damper.  Mainly at low speeds when I'm riding tired/badly and putting too much weight through the 'bars.

 

The lower bearing was proper knackered- orange and skanky.  That's on a 25,000 mile machine.

 

Incidentally, I dropped the forks about 20mm to see what would happen- whoa!  That's some quick steering!  Too quick for me- I've settled at 12mm which feels lovely.