Least disruptive electrical connection

[The Monkey]

To the electron elite I ask

which connection has the least resistance

to me it is wire to wire with solder, but given the fact that we have to re and re components that method soon runs out of spool

Which is it? spade, gang (junction). I ask because I have black at my output wires from the alternator these are a bullet connector and obviously not up to the job. I have pulled all but my ignition switch and cannot find an issue in the loom. That includes all 5 point relays and the fuse box. Grounding is ridiculous I have more green wires than the Grinch.  I am running EME components. The last regulator bypassed the loom and lasted less than 5 tanks of fuel.

 

Shit Chinese batteries have not helped, which one is right for this ride?

 

thanks for your help

Cam

[docc]

I'm not the last word on this, but I learned from this site: Lap solder/heat shrink.

 

And, for sure, service your ignition switch!

[The Monkey]

Thanks docc

 

I see the numbers I need to reference over in another post about charging

Been awhile I havent had time to ride in the last couple years so am looking forward to sorting this gremlin

 

Batteries-

What is ok with our charging system, I have no luck with the generic $100 variety

are the orange ones friendly? Odyssey I think. Read your post about making sure they are up to operational voltage prior to install.

Does one have to worry about glass mat opposed to whatever else it is they sell now?

cheers

[Scud]

Monkey - I am not the electron elite, but I found the thread "Electric Overhaul" helpful. If you already have plenty of ground, maybe you need to upgrade to the Maxi 30-amp fuse on the + side. 

 

As for Odyssey - I just pitched a very old Odyssey from a bike that had been sitting a lot.  It tested as "replace" but it was still working, so I dumped it before it failed.  New Odyssey batteries can be had for $100.

 

+1 on ignition switch advice.  I found some frayed strands from one wire in mine that appear to have made contact where they should not.

[Kiwi_Roy]

The ignition switch comes off in minutes, don't try to remove the lock just undo the two Allen screws underneath.

Mark the switch so it goes back the same way, clean and lube with Vaseline, Nothing else

 

The original bullet connectors are a little different than standard but if you squeeze the socket it should be ok, perhaps run a drill bit in the female to clean it out and for sure a little Vaseline to prevent corrosion.

[Scud]

Roy - I've been following your electric advice with good effect so far. I also use a spray-on electronic cleaner before I reassemble and lube electric things, but I don't recall you mentioning it. I assume physical cleaning/abrasion for the contact surfaces is best, but do you have an opinion about the spray-on cleaner for the hard to reach spots?

[Kiwi_Roy]

No I don't have an opinion of spray-ons, I tend to avoid them around plastics since having a switch dissolve on me once. Just be careful. I'm sure there are better things to use on switches than petroleum jelly but I've been using it for 50 years and not had a problem.

 

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

[The Monkey]

Thank you Gents!

 

Will apply the sage advice and pursue this little irk to its final end

The maxi fuse is a good plan I have noticed twice a heat issue back there on the 30 amp over the years. Cheers Scud

The ignition switch will be interesting as that is the one area I have never gone to. Thank you Docc and Kiwi Roy for the prompts and advice.

 

Got to get this Guzzi back to Great!

[OldButNotDead]

I've also not played with the ignition switch; been scared of tamper-proof screws, explosive ball bearings and the like.  I have had a occasional no-start issue that hasn't been addressed through a variety of other mucking about.

 

Can I just thread some allen keys up in there, or is it best to remove some other items first for better access?

[docc]

Especially with a naked, this is easy to do. No ball bearings to do up!

 

Certainly, one of the most neglected choke-points on a V11.

[OldButNotDead]

Sounds like it's time to stop neglecting it then.  Thx!  

[Kiwi_Roy]

OBND,

The tamper proof screws hold the lock in place I think.

All you need to get the switch off is a Phillips screwdriver. There are 2 screws underneath the switch toward the rear, the lock stays behind.
Looking at the switch there are 3 white spots pick the odd one and prize the plate out at an angle.
It helps putting it back together if you mark it.

 

Wipe the old grease out with a bit of shop cloth and replace it with fresh Vaseline

When you put it back together make sure the wires are fixed so they don't flex at the solder joint, leave them loose where they flex around the headstock.

 

BTW

The spine frame guzzis are not as effected by a dirty switch as other are because there are no heavy currents passing through the switch,  A dirty switch on mine showed up as the bike missing and farting.

You can check the health of the switch from under the seat measuring the contact resistance, I can't post a picture from here but a while back I added a sketch called "Test Point Layout" it shows how.
 

[OldButNotDead]

Thanks Roy; your patience is seemingly endless.  I downloaded the Test points, and other sketches some time back.  Haven't been riding/wrenching much lately though; work demands have continuously increased the past few years.

 

Ignition switch is now is next on my Guzzi todo list.  I've printed a hardcopy and now just need to create the time and energy to get it done.