footgoose Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 based on my 2 bikes, which no gauges were replaced, the tach fades faster than the spedo. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 I'm about finished with the mounting. I decided to retain the gauge "mount" cover (the black ABS "cups" that house the leading edge of the gauges as well as the wiring for the warning lights.) Because the Speedhut connections are more like audio equipment than what I would expect of reliable weatherproof motorcycle connections, I closed up all the mount/cover openings using trim plugs and polystyrene plate, affixed with JB Weld epoxy: I used the mounting for the warning light receptacle to reattach the mount /cover by chasing the sleeve threads and using it as a pattern to drill three new holes in the mount/cover for M4 x 50mm machine screws inserted from the front: The gauges themselves are located ("indexed") with three M5 set screws tapped through the ABS gauge cover, and a pair, each, of 3 1/8" ID x 1/8" round section Nitrile 70 durometer O-rings [ if I had more patience/time, I would have sourced rectangular section O-rings rather than the round section ]: Next, to divine the wiring in order to minimize the number of connections and excessive lengths of wire. Even with the shortened wires I specified, there is twenty-five feet of wire and seven connectors. (Without using the dimmer). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 On 5/7/2017 at 4:17 PM, docc said: Thanks, chamberlin! On the slippery slope now . . . maybe I missed it but that's a dang nice replacement. About as close to the original that I've seen. I hate to ask if you already posted Docc but did you list the order options for this? It would be a great reference for the next guy wanting a replacement. I would want the exact same thing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 On 5/11/2017 at 11:01 AM, LowRyter said: On 5/7/2017 at 4:17 PM, docc said: On the slippery slope now . . . maybe I missed it but that's a dang nice replacement. About as close to the original that I've seen. I hate to ask if you already posted Docc but did you list the order options for this? It would be a great reference for the next guy wanting a replacement. I would want the exact same thing. So, I think I ticked every box and added every possible option. The final faces are the result of five proofs benefiting from a series of printed mock-ups I used to refine the design. Josh, and Goofman, and my son with the V7 café helped immensely through the design process. I'll post another summary when I get the wiring done . Not including the various fasteners and other materials for the mounting, the Speedhut cost made it to $559.90US. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 I think you nailed it. it would be great if the next guy could order what you did (except the bird on the right is pointed the wrong way ) [moderator edit: don't be gettin' between my birds, now! . . . docc] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68C Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 Docc, love the 'Remove before flight' tag. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 On 5/7/2017 at 3:53 PM, docc said: Removed the gearbox drive for the speedometer angle drive. http://www.v11lemans.com/gallery/gallery_328_223_285675.jpeg Gearbox plug came today complete with O-ring and thread protector. Nice polished finish (better than pictured in the part reference). Just under $10US shipped from Illinois, USA. https://www.zoro.com/parker-hollow-hex-plug-m16-x-15-metric-vsti16x15edcf/i/G5007764/?q=G5007764 Very tidy! Now to pull the tank and fish out the cable housing. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Trading up to these for the cable assembly . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 And the reset button instead of the twist knob: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Are you going to connect the speedo to an always-on power supply? I didn't do that that and my GPS Speedo has to acquire the signal every time the bike turns on. With the constant power, it remembers the last location. It won't read the speed, or allow the trip meter to be reset until it locks a signal. So I if I ever get in there again I will want to connect to constant power. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Are you going to connect the speedo to an always-on power supply? I didn't do that that and my GPS Speedo has to acquire the signal every time the bike turns on. With the constant power, it remembers the last location. It won't read the speed, or allow the trip meter to be reset until it locks a signal. So I if I ever get in there again I will want to connect to constant power. Yessir, I found a constant hot feed in my headlamp bucket I have wired from the battery (my junction block) through a 10 amp circuit breaker. This way I can route the (GPS )"Hot Start" wire without crossing the steering head. [ Note: this is not factory wiring to the headlamp, but a live power feed from the battery to relays I have added in the headlamp bucket for the headlight. ] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 I have decided to use the female spade connectors for the factory tachometer wiring and change all the Speedhut wiring to matching spade connectors. Early V11 Sport wiring for (white face) Veglia shown above. For the 2nd gen V11 wiring with (black face) ITI, see Scud's Post#13:http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19038&p=204147 [ NOTE: I found it convenient to power the gauges from the factory red/black wire from Relay#2/ Fuse#5, but as Kiwi_Roy has posted repeatedly, the gauges re-initialize after cranking. Using the yellow (illumination) wires for gauge power bypasses this. ] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 I got the GPS back-up power ("Hot Start") wired into the headlamp constant 12V on one of the relays in the bucket (*not* factory wiring). I didn't like the way I shielded the factory speedometer illumination wires (green circle in the picture above) and re-purposed those to power the two individual (non-dimming) Speedhut inverters for face illumination. [above: individual, non-dimming face illumination inverters.] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 *Again, please note the early V11 (white face) Veglia wiring and the later (black face) ITI wiring differs. Look at Scud's wiring posts (Post 13, page 1) for the ITI. All of mine are for the early V11 (1999-2002) Veglia wiring connections. I did modify the Speedhut gauge harnesses more than the V11 harness, eliminating almost all of the extra wire and connectors. [above] Both gauges combined to male spades: black -> black (ground); white with yellow marker -> yellow (needle illumination); red-> red/black (gauge power) [NOTE: it would be easy to reverse the two power connectors and the gauges will not have to reboot after cranking as Kiwi_Roy has emphasized. NOTE#2: I did this and it is MUCH better! Thanks to Kiwi_Roy! ] [above] Tachometer (RPM) signal: [shortened] yellow/green -> yellow/black V11 ECU wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 Good tutorial, Docc. I guess the obvious question is how long before your battery goes down with the gps on all the time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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