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Posted

Good tutorial, Docc.  :thumbsup:  I guess the obvious question is how long before your battery goes down with  the gps on all the time?

 

+1 - and good job reducing the wire clutter that comes from Speedhut. The constant power for the speedo only keeps the last location in memory when the bike is off. It's not powering the GPS function. I forget the numbers but it's a tiny amount of power - far less than running a clock - so it would take a very long time to drain the battery. I regret not hooking that up on my installation because the bike "forgets" where it is even when I turn it off to get gas. Then I have to wait for it to acquire the signal before I can reset the trip meter. 

Posted

 

Good tutorial, Docc.  :thumbsup:  I guess the obvious question is how long before your battery goes down with  the gps on all the time?

 

+1 - and good job reducing the wire clutter that comes from Speedhut. The constant power for the speedo only keeps the last location in memory when the bike is off. It's not powering the GPS function. I forget the numbers but it's a tiny amount of power - far less than running a clock - so it would take a very long time to drain the battery. I regret not hooking that up on my installation because the bike "forgets" where it is even when I turn it off to get gas. Then I have to wait for it to acquire the signal before I can reset the trip meter. 

 

Thanks, guys!  Speedhut says that draws 25 micro amps. As Scud says, it isn't actually operating the GPS.  I suppose if it were stored for a long period, that fuse (circuit breaker in my case), could be pulled.

 

I'm about 98% on the installation. I managed to fish out the speedo cable housing without entirely removing the tank. That will not be possible for those whose cable housing is routed tightly along the frame or zip-tied excessively.

 

By changing the connectors on the Speedhuts instead of the V11 harness, I eliminated probably 90% of the provided wiring and several bulky connectors. I used the individual inverters that each have a single connector, so no bundles of unused connectors. I did not use the *dimmer* as it does have a chain of eight connectors and the potentiometer itself is not weatherproof at all. Just looked too bulky and unreliable to me.

 

It is revealing that the V11 wiring (and connections) differ on the Veglia versus the ITI. It appears the Veglia wiring is easier to convert because of the spade connections.

 

Turning my attention to the final weather proofing.

  • Like 1
Posted

Before posting my attempts at weatherproofing, I wanted to try and show how much wiring can be reduced with careful planning and the bold use of side cutters and a soldering iron.

 

As delivered:

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The pile of stuff left over after the installation (163 grams/ over 1/3 pound):

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  • Like 3
Posted

Out of (undying) curiosity, I weighed these instruments and their support systems.

 

Veglia speedometer with gearbox drive, cable/housing and angle drives plus the Veglia tachometer: nearly an even kilogram! (1002 grams)

 

The Speedhut speedo and tach with all the kit to drive them: 332 grams: almost exactly 1/3. :thumbsup:

 

Working my way toward a lightweight sportbike . . .  :whistle:

 

(But, hey, I lost a pound-and-a-half. B) )

Posted

Guzzis are all about lightness.. that's why there is so much carbon fiber on the Scura.  :ninja:

  • Like 2
Posted

Here is my best shot at sealing the "back" of the gauges, realizing that is the leading edge into the weather:

Exposed "audio type" jacks and unsealed wiring on the tachometer:

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RTV in and around the wires, cut-down vacuum caps silconed in place over the jacks and one of the two round section Nitrile O-rings [NOTE: If I were to do over, I would source rectangular section "O"-rings / 3 1/3 inch ID is very close to 80mm ID (0.025" smaller)]:

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  • Like 1
Posted

Setting Odometer:
In order to change the odometer on a GPS you will need to follow these steps.
1. After it acquires, go through the menus till it shows Speedhut's phone number.
2. At this point press and hold the button until it tells you to release the button. You will repeat this step right after you release the button.
3. Next the gauge will start doing a self-test and the pointer will start moving. Keep an eye on the menu screen till is says odometer.
4. At this point you will press and hold the button and then you can follow the prompts for how to change the numbers.
5. When you have it set to what you want just let it time out and it will save the setting.

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Illumination compared to the Veglia . . . :o

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  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for being patient while I've worked through documenting the installation. Immense gratitude to all the members who have posted their efforts and results in this thread. :thumbsup::notworthy:

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  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Aren't the instruments protected by the outer cover?

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