PDoz Posted June 24, 2015 Posted June 24, 2015 Perhaps just have a chat with the mechanic and insist that HE does work on your bike in future and remind him how much you used to trust him? I had a similar event when my rear axle wasn't tightened post tyre change - it was the first and last time the apprentice touched my bike, and I gave the mechanic a choice - at our medical clinic we have apprentices as well- they're called interns. If he wanted them left unsupervised......
H-E-Ross Posted June 24, 2015 Author Posted June 24, 2015 This shop is a bit of a throwback (this is why I like it). It is a two owner, front of the house and back of the house shop, no employees. I don't want my relationship strained and that is why I asked for guidance in regard to the tire change/service. I didn't want to go in with guns a blazing if it was unreasonable for me to expect that this should not happen.
H-E-Ross Posted July 3, 2015 Author Posted July 3, 2015 Here's end of the story. I brought the bike back to the shop and expressed my displeasure. I left with expectation it would be put right and that we would sort it out after the mechanic had taken a look at. The final upshot is that the bolt in question is not removed during a tire change and inspection of said bolt is not mentioned in the specs for this service. I paid a fair price for parts and labor and have moved on. Now the lesson here is; if you have a pre 2003 V11, CHECK THIS BOLT! You don't have to wait until your next tire change or brake service. The bolt should be assembled with Locktite as it does not need to be removed and it may decide to exit on its own.
stewgnu Posted July 4, 2015 Posted July 4, 2015 "..bolt in question is not removed during a tire change.." Are you sure? I can't imagine how I'd get the wheel out with the hanger in place...Will it pivot out the way when the axle is removed?
rossi46 Posted July 4, 2015 Posted July 4, 2015 stew on my bike its stuck solid! so I have always left it in when removing the wheel, maybe the earlier ones,without the 'r' clip are shorter?
H-E-Ross Posted July 4, 2015 Author Posted July 4, 2015 Yes, the earlier bolts are shorter. The later bolts with pin pass through the carrier. Refer to parts diagrams posted by CAMN previously in this thread, (though the diagram does not show the hole). To use the longer bolt with pin, a hole would have to be drilled in the carrier on my Tenni. Another consideration; bolt w/o pin, $6.00 - improved bolt with pin, $42.00. Go figure!
docc Posted July 4, 2015 Posted July 4, 2015 "..bolt in question is not removed during a tire change.." Are you sure? I can't imagine how I'd get the wheel out with the hanger in place... Will it pivot out the way when the axle is removed? Yes. Once the axle is out, and with the wheel supported, the caliper hanger rotates down and slides free of the block. It's a bit fiddly to slide the block back in, but you'll get the hang of it after a few passes.
H-E-Ross Posted July 4, 2015 Author Posted July 4, 2015 "..bolt in question is not removed during a tire change.." Are you sure? I can't imagine how I'd get the wheel out with the hanger in place... Will it pivot out the way when the axle is removed? Yes. Once the axle is out, and with the wheel supported, the caliper hanger rotates down and slides free of the block. It's a bit fiddly to slide the block back in, but you'll get the hang of it after a few passes. Docc - Stewgnu has a 2004 V11, presumably with the longer bolt though the carrier. I am not sure if the caliper will swing free with out removing the bolt.
docc Posted July 5, 2015 Posted July 5, 2015 "..bolt in question is not removed during a tire change.." Are you sure? I can't imagine how I'd get the wheel out with the hanger in place... Will it pivot out the way when the axle is removed? Yes. Once the axle is out, and with the wheel supported, the caliper hanger rotates down and slides free of the block. It's a bit fiddly to slide the block back in, but you'll get the hang of it after a few passes. Docc - Stewgnu has a 2004 V11, presumably with the longer bolt though the carrier. I am not sure if the caliper will swing free with out removing the bolt. Right! True, that. The pivot method likely only works on the early carriers then since the later, longer pinned bolt appears to go clear through the carrier itself and not just into the sliding block. Edit: I revised the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist again, with a link to this thread: >Clean the rear brake carrier pin and block; lube lightly and be certain the pin threads are clean, lubed* and well torqued. (later V11s have a retaining clip on the inboard side). *Consider a thread locking compound. Allowing this locator pin to fall out can be catastrophic! On the early V11 (1999-2002), some have decided to torque the pin in place and only use the sliding block to remove the rear wheel, perhaps reducing the chance that the pin would not be reinstalled correctly and safely.
stewgnu Posted July 5, 2015 Posted July 5, 2015 Glad that's all cleared up! The first time I removed it it gave way with a right crack. I'm used to removing the whole shebang now but as that bolt is usually quite tight it's starting to damage the head where the hex key sometimes slips.
Scud Posted October 15, 2016 Posted October 15, 2016 This thread shows how to add the longer bolt and safety pin to a 2002 an earlier brake caliper carrier: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19655&do=findComment&comment=214039
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