Major clutch issues - Coppa Italia

[JRD]

Dangerous- Thank you sir, you just put a big smile on my face! I had an '81 Deluxe that showed 42,000 miles on it when I bought it.  Nic named it "the turtle" because of the shape and color of  the tank and incredible speeds it was capable of :-P.  Rode a lot better after I took the 35 lbs of fairing and assorted brackets off the front but the "air assisted "front forks" always leaked and the rear shocks didn't.  Reminded me of riding a pogo stick. But that was part of the personality of these bikes and what makes owning them fun.   Ran the ever living snot out of it and had a blast with it.  But, as you mentioned, the cam chains were noted for wearing and chewing up the bolts next to them, cam chain tensioners went thru 3 or 4 design changes, stators burned out, and the water pump seal would self destruct. And lets not forget the CDI ignitions that ran out of spark.  I was fortunate that in the time I owned mine the cam chain adjuster was at its final limit and didn't let go.  What never ceases to amaze me is how many bikes are able to run trouble free for umpteen thousands of miles with little or no maintenance done and others that are serviced on a routine basis end up in scrap piles for used parts.  I can understand how Polebridge has become frustrated after buying what he thought was a good bike, and I believe it still is, only to be told he might need to dump several thousand hard earned dollars into it.  From what he has indicated in his post I feel he is very capable of determining what is causing the clutch drag problem and repairing it himself.  He jus needs to do it systematically. Start at the top at work his way down.  Sorry to hijack the post I just hope Polebridge doesn't give up on the Guzzi brand gets his bike sorted.  

[Hansson]

I had similar problems with my Ballabio -04. The clutch worked but didn't disengage completely. It worked so much that the fault wasn't noticeable  when shifting gears while driving. It was trouble getting out of number one's gear when the bike was stationary with the engine running. It was right on the edge that it would drive (and make it a little sometime) whith engaged clutch, detached in gear, when stationary. When I search pull mode, it hack / grab a little. The bike had rolled around 16000 kilometers. 

 

I avoided the problem in a very simple manner by adjusting the clutch lever with the ring-nut to position 1. This position gives the clutch piston maximum stroke. I know that this wasn't a way to solve the cause of the problem but it meant I didn't have to disassemble the clutch. Now I have done it anyway because of leaking gearbox.

 

The reason for the the problem may be due to several causes, but the most likely is worn splines (grooves) on the clutch gear or/and flywheel. I think you can read about it in this forum.

 

Cheers 

[docc]

I had similar problems with my Ballabio -04. The clutch worked but didn't disengage completely. It worked so much that the fault wasn't noticeable  when shifting gears while driving. It was trouble getting out of number one's gear when the bike was stationary with the engine running. It was right on the edge that it would drive (and make it a little sometime) whith engaged clutch, detached in gear, when stationary. When I search pull mode, it hack / grab a little. The bike had rolled around 16000 kilometers. 

 

I avoided the problem in a very simple manner by adjusting the clutch lever with the ring-nut to position 1. This position gives the clutch piston maximum stroke. I know that this wasn't a way to solve the cause of the problem but it meant I didn't have to disassemble the clutch. Now I have done it anyway because of leaking gearbox.

 

The reason for the the problem may be due to several causes, but the most likely is worn splines (grooves) on the clutch gear or/and flywheel. I think you can read about it in this forum.

 

Cheers 

Dry gearbox splines are a known problem with many BMW R motorcycles causing the owners to make sure there is light lubrication on the splines. I've not heard discussion of that here, but it stands to reason. It's still a laborious area to get to, but no major parts involved . . .

[polebridge]

Everyone,

 

Thanks for all the info and tips.  I appreciate it!  Sorry I have not updated in a while but, as luck would have it, I am now struggling with a much more serious issue.  I am having some 'issues' at work which are causing me some major headaches at the moment so I have not had much time to even think about this.  At this time it still sits at the dealer.  No work has been started.  My guess is that they will start work on it when the riding season ends.  I have been considering picking it up and taking the advice of some of you and just start to tear it apart.  Not looking forward to that since I just don't think I will have the time to devote to that project.  

 

I will be sure to let everyone know what I do and what, if anything, the dealer finds.

 

Thanks everyone

[LowRyter]

Perhaps you can find a good local bike mechanic?  There should be a few good ones in your part of the country.  I've got a couple of "go to guys" in Okla City (and the nearest dealer is 100 miles away and am not sure they know anything about legacy bikes).  

 

last year I was in the area and drove by this shop.  I have no idea if they are good.

 

http://europeancycleservices.com/

 

or take a look here

 

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=31382.0

[mznyc]

Everyone,

 

Thanks for all the info and tips.  I appreciate it!  Sorry I have not updated in a while but, as luck would have it, I am now struggling with a much more serious issue.  I am having some 'issues' at work which are causing me some major headaches at the moment so I have not had much time to even think about this.  At this time it still sits at the dealer.  No work has been started.  My guess is that they will start work on it when the riding season ends.  I have been considering picking it up and taking the advice of some of you and just start to tear it apart.  Not looking forward to that since I just don't think I will have the time to devote to that project.  

 

I will be sure to let everyone know what I do and what, if anything, the dealer finds.

 

Thanks everyone

I have have the clutch tools for the change PB if you want to borrow them,can also give you insight as to what to look for as I'm local,split my time between NYC and New Paltz area so always going up the 17/287/87 area so no problem to come by.If you want to save a grand or so doing it yourself is the way to go.About $200 in parts but can take weeks or months to get depending on whether any of the US suppliers have them on hand or not. Most likely the dealer will know as much or less than you about the change.

PM me if you like when you get things cleared up at work and you want to address it,..

Michael

[theoneandonly]

i have just had this problem with the same bike , master cylinder is the problem . replace or rebuild it .

we did all the easy things first , then bit the bullet and put on a new one . FIXED . 

[dangerous]

the master... on the handle bar?

[theoneandonly]

yes , slave is at back of g/box

we did bleed clutch , flush bell housing , fixed it for a day ....changed m/cyl ....ALL GOOD .

[TomekSZ]

hello,

 

I have exactly the same problem as described in this thread. Revs grows at the idle to 2k rpm and the clutch sliping and disengages. If i want the first gear i must rev to the 3k rpm and run very fast....I fear, however, that everyone in this topic are right. On the one hand clutch master cylinder is damaged, on the other hand, either the flywheel or shields are over. I'll know on Friday because then I'm picking up an authorized service center. PS: my bike is v11 lemans, 2003.

[TomekSZ]

heh they told me that the main isue was the oxygen in tn my system ? Do i believe? i dont think so... they dont know what was hapend that the oxygen was theare. The entire system is tight...

[TomekSZ]

update: clutch discs broken - 12 000 km, beacuse the bike was not running for about 4 years... 

[LowRyter]

I wonder if PoleBridge has made any progress on his clutch creep?

[footgoose]

when I purchased the Tenni, the hydraulic fluids hadn't been changed for a couple-3 years, or more (color of molasses) and the 'engage' position on the lever was JUST off the grip. I flushed all fluids and immediately got back to almost normal lever engage position. It continued to improve even more with use, to where it should be. Not to mention brakes. Fresh fluids every year are a small PITA, but the rewards are big.

[dangerous]

LOL... yeah regular fluid chaqnge is good but... I just did my clutch fluid for the 1st time in 50k 10yrs... it was fine changing it made the slave seal to fail.. the brake fluid I just did to... helps that its used regulary