heat & electrics

[andy york]

seems like every time I have electrical issues, it means the voltage regulator is about 

to shat all over itself 

[docc]

That's easy to check with a series of voltage readings (key off; start; idle; "some" rpm)

 

But I don't think the regulator would shut your bike down. Ignition switch, side stand switch, run switch, relays . . .

 

No doubt, you have the most miles/km on any V11 in the world.

[Kiwi_Roy]

blimey   I guess it is a whole Saturday and a couple of 6 packs to wire less to all the relays. 

So  I wired up a little test  LED  but i surely don't know an easy way to stab in to a relay circuit. 

any tricks those in the know would like to share. I think I want to start with the ECU relay. 

It does not Spit and sputter as running out of fuel will do. 

Last time I checked the ignition key wiring it was A ok. 

Main 30 fuse does not appear to be heating up .

could be she doesn't want a mount in this kinda heat   !!!!  been wringing wet all day    !!

For the initial test just monitor the petcock fuse with a small 12 Volt lamp

Jamb one wire in the fuse holder to a lamp placed where you can see it while riding to chassis.

This lamp will indicate instantly if you lose Voltage feeding the ECU.

 

If the bike cuts out and the light stays On you have eliminated the most troublesome half of the wiring.

If the bike cuts out and the light goes Off all you have to check is Ignition Switch, kill switch, sidestand circuit.

 

Easy Peasy

[andy york]

OK    give me another spot to test this from. Mine is 2002 model, manual fuel petcock.
I bypassed the side stand and clutch switiches  years ago.

fuel pump is in the tail.

Maybe this has to to do with the starter button sometimes not working. 

sometimes the button will not work but I can jumpstart the solenoid with a screwdriver

lol      gotta love it     

[docc]

You should still have the last slot in the fuse box to test from . . .

[Kiwi_Roy]

As Docc says even if the petcocks been taken off the wiring is still there, if not you can monitor the wire going to the ECU relay.

If the power drops off this wire the ECU drops out and I'm guessing it takes a second or two to recover (reboot).

 

IMHO the ECU wiring is pretty robust, on my bike at least the only time it plays up is if the Voltage is lost upstream, Ignition switch or the stand relay.

[TomekSZ]

Hello,

 

I have the same problem. I change the ralays all of them to http://pl.rs-online.com/web/p/przekazniki-nieblokujace/6995967/?searchTerm=699-5967&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D6265724D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E5C647B337D5B5C732D2F255C2E2C5D5C647B332C347D2426706F3D313426736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D4245522677633D4E4F4E45267573743D3639392D3539363726

 

And it seams that is going wrong. it is normal for the 5 minutes, and shot of - the neutral light is blinking and the rest of the bike died... 

 

What do you think is the relays are good? or mayby are they bad and i must change them for oryginals?

[Cabernet]

Side stand inter-lock switch?

[TomekSZ]

I will check. strange symptoms, because I can fire on/off, but something is probably different. tip on the revs rages .. and turnover are normal so it is definitely an electrician. 

[Kiwi_Roy]

I will check. strange symptoms, because I can fire on/off, but something is probably different. tip on the revs rages .. and turnover are normal so it is definitely an electrician. 

You said earlier "the neutral light is blinking", I think that is a good clue.

Please tell us what year your bike was manufactured, what model.

 

 

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif

If the neutral light was blinking on this one I would first look at the ignition switch, it may have a broken wire or very dirty contacts.

See how terminal (J) of the switch feeds the light and also important relays

 

Do not try to remove the lock, just unscrew the two Phillips screws underneath removing just the switch, the lock stays in the bike.

Disconnect the battery first.

 

Here is a switch where the wire has broken because it was bending at the joint.

[TomekSZ]

Thanks a lot. My bike is V11 Lemans 2003 Rosso Corsa. I just look and it seams that the neutral gear switch/sensor was litle bit disconected. I pushed in the metal in the switch and i think it will be ok. But but but...

 

The bike first of all wasyn't start - there was no energy/power. I checked the conection and seams to me it is ok. So i change the first and fifth relays. Bike starts normaly. What do you think? the Relays are new Panasonic? Maybe wrong relays? I dont know but it is not the first time... 

[GuzziMoto]

The relays tend to be an issue with these bikes. Not just the relays themselves but also the sockets the relays mount to. Bad connections there can cause the same issues as bad relays, easy enough to check.

I have no experience with Panasonic relays, they could be fine. But, there are certain brands of relays which are known to be good and I would try to use those. Also, I would use the same relays for all your relays, the extra pin is simply not used in some slots. That allows you to freely swap relays without being limited by pin counts.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Yes inspect the relay sockets, make sure they grip the pins sand make sure the connector doesn't push out the back, I will send you a PM when I get to work.

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

[Kiwi_Roy]

It's very hard to tell if a relay is working by looking at it. Swapping them around may fix it for a while this is why I always recommend having a small light you can wire in temporarily to monitor various points for example fuse 8. Fuse 8 is a very useful point because it's just before the ECU, if the power gets that far the bike will probably run. If you use a small wire you can also wrap it around a relay pin or probe various points for power.

 

It is useful to remember that with the key On terminal 30 of all relay sockets should be at 12 Volts.

Also, when the relay coil is energized terminal 87 will be alive. (try this with your test lamp wrapped around the pin)

 

I recommend everyone should carry a 12 Volt LED with about 4 feet of wire soldered to each terminal, the negative wire you wrap around a suitable ground point e.g. bolt the positive is used as a probe or wired to a point you want to monitor, this can also be useful if you have to work on the bike in the dark.

I usually carry a direction indicator lamp for this, use an LED because unlike an incandescent it's very hard to destroy, always check the lamp is working by touching it across the battery first.
 

[TomekSZ]

hmm ok thanks a lot once again. I think it is a litle movment in the socket but it is a 1 or 2 mm they up to back. I will clean the socket by some chemistry or something like that.

 

I let you know if the problem came back.