Go_Winkie!

[Kiwi_Roy]

Nervous about levering on the plastic holder. No amount of finger grabbing shifts the rear grommet and the front one shifts just a few mm and stops.

I  was working on my bike so I tried, yes you have to wiggle and pull hard, the grommets are fitted into tabs welded to the chassis so no fear of breaking those.

[Zooter]

I am only concerned with the plastic fuse box. It bends under finger pressure. I can probably get a thin screwdriver in under from the front but that might cause all sorts of electrical mayhem before I knew it.

[danl]

My wiring harness was tie wrapped to the subframe near the fusebox.  That may be part of your issue.  That is a strange setup.  I wonder how many bikes out there have stripped button heads on the fusebox.

 

Someone posted a picture recently of a later bikes fusebox and the petcock location was empty.  I thought it was in the Maxi Fuse thread, but I can't find it now.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Danl,

           I tried unscrewing the holder with no luck, I got so mad I grabbed it and wrenched, popped right out.

Spray a little soapy water around the grommet, that might help.

[docc]

After a recent "NO Start" experience from adding the 30 amp circuit breaker and moving the Fuse Block around (displacing the lower spade connectors to Fuses 1 and 2), I got a better understanding how to use the Go_Winkie (power indicator from Fuse 8) . . .

 

Lower (hidden) spade connectors beneath Fuse#1 and #2 for the ECU and Fuel/Ignition relays #4 and #5:

[Kiwi_Roy]

What would that chart look like without Go_Winkie?

 

Here's mine, upper left

 

You can also see my original LED per relay

[docc]

In truth, the troubleshooting flow chart starts with : 12v to Fuse 8

 

That's where my *Indicator light* is wired. (The former Electric Petcock connector)

[Kiwi_Roy]

I have been rabbiting on for years about how useful that fuse is, it pretty much divides troubleshooting in half.

For those without a petcock fuse you can make a Go_Winkie relay with a 12V LED on the coil terminals.

Slot 4 is probably the best place for it (same as fuse 8), but move it around to check the other slots

 

 

The same LEDs I use for the idiot lights for the VII they fit nicely but don't even think about using the sockets there.

[docc]

Let me ask this: If the Go_Winkie flickers (or a test light on the back section of the fuse block flickers), is the Ignition Switch the likely culprit?

[Kiwi_Roy]

The Go Winkie can flash for several reasons

Let's be clear it's normally On with the key On, goes out with a fault, it's not magic it won't show every fault just a bunch that will shut you down.

 

Earlier Bikes up to 2002 I think

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif

Loose or broken wire

Blown fuse 4

Ignition switch

Bad sidestand relay

Sidestand or Neutral switch

Kill switch

I am sure there are other reasons, the thing is the flashing light allows you to quickly zoom in on the problem, as you are scratching around sooner or later you will touch something that makes it better or worse.

I've only had mine flicker twice, both times it was on about half brightness and flickering caused by the stand switch sizzling away it  was so obvious the switch was at fault just touching it caused an improvement. If you look back at my earlier post you can see I have a wire stuffed into the relay socket to short the switch out.

 

After 2002

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif

Pretty much the same except now the solenoid is fed through the switch, I'm pretty sure you would see a big dip in the light in a case of Startus Interuptus or even a weak battery.

[docc]

Go_Winkie do-over upgrade:

[docc]

Lately, the Sport does not fire-up every time, at the push of a button (the Start Button).  Cycling the Run Switch a few times gets things going. I noticed the Go_Winkie is not lit when the >No Start

 

Good news: It is not the injectors, coils, ECU, fuel pump, Fuses 1 or 2, the "secondary/hidden" spade connections underneath Fuses 1 and 2, Relays 4 or 5, or any of that independent wiring harness for ignition/fueling.

 

Many thanks to    Kiwi_Roy for this simple and effective real time, onboard diagnostic tool!

 

Embarking, now, on the fault. Beginning with opening, cleaning, and DeOxit for the Run Switch itself . . .

[docc]

After cleaning, and DeOxit® treating the Run Switch (and Start Button), the Go_Winkie illuminates every time.

A live-ride test is in order, but must wait.

 

I'm pretty sure I haven't cleaned (CRC Electronics Cleaner) and treated (Caig DeOxit Gold) before because I don;t remember the hassle of getting the switch separated from the clip-on.  The front brake lever mount has to be released to release the throttle assembly to get the front screw loose on the switch mount.

 

Even then, I could not "get eyes on" the switch contacts, so just flooded the switch assembly with the cleaner, then the DeOxit, while cycling the switches repeatedly. 

 

Over just the next couple rides, I'll know if this solved the intermittent no-start and dark Go_Winkie.

If so, the Go_Winkie will have saved me an immense trouble shooting debacle!

 

I already owe Kiwi_Roy a canoe-full of MooseJuice . . .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6uI4XAGO2BY

[Chuck]

 

I already owe Kiwi_Roy a canoe-full of MooseJuice . . .

Me, too..

[docc]

Cleaning/DeOxit® of the Run Switch solved my intermittent no start that was accompanied by simultaneous No-Go_Winkie. 

 

Saved me a boatload of troubleshooting! :thumbsup: