sp838 Posted October 22, 2015 Posted October 22, 2015 I am thiiiiiiis close to just taking the sucker off entirely. Any reasons why this is a terrible idea? I am ok with holding the throttle open manually when warming the bike up. And using other methods if necessary when working on it. Kind of thought it make make a semi-decent hack of a cruise conteol lever, only reason why I am hesitating. Otherwise, anyone else done it? Would recommend for or against it?
danl Posted October 22, 2015 Posted October 22, 2015 I took mine off when I first got the bike (i'm not really sure why - it doesn't add any significant clutter in comparison to the L/S switchgear), but now it's back on. I just used it this morning on the ride in to help creep along in 10mph traffic without the jerky on off feeling I sometimes get at slight throttle openings. I had to swap the spring out for a lighter one to get it to work well, but I'm glad I reinstalled it.
Scud Posted October 22, 2015 Posted October 22, 2015 I think I re-assembled the handlebar portion incorrectly on my LeMans and it now works perfectly. I put the metal washer between two plastic parts instead of where I found it - kind of hard to explain and I don't have a picture, sorry. The lever on my Scura has seized and does absolutely nothing now. I am doing fine without it - but I might take it apart and put it back together incorrectly like my LeMans. Like danl, I find it useful sometimes.
GuzziMoto Posted October 22, 2015 Posted October 22, 2015 I don't know why you would feel the need to remove it, but you certainly can. Personally, I think it serves a very useful set of purposes. The first thing it is good for, and clearly what it was designed to do, is help with cold start and warm up. Sure, you can do that manually, but it is much easier to use the fast idle control. Another thing it is good for is as a limited cruise control. Depending on how it is adjusted it can give you decent results in that aspect. There is a long standing issue with them, the spring was too stiff out of the box, Meanwhile the seat release spring was too weak. More than a few people swapped the two springs, making both work better.
sp838 Posted October 22, 2015 Author Posted October 22, 2015 All good points. Main reason is just because there are already so many wires and cables and hoses going all over the place, one less would be one less. I suppose I can remove the cable, leave the lever on bars, and see if I miss it.
sp838 Posted October 22, 2015 Author Posted October 22, 2015 All good points. Main reason is just because there are already so many wires and cables and hoses going all over the place, one less would be one less. I suppose I can remove the cable, leave the lever on bars, and see if I miss it.
docc Posted October 22, 2015 Posted October 22, 2015 Some guys look at their bikes like women - sure, they look great all dressed up, but taking things off is good, too . . . "You Can Leave Your Hat On." https://www.google.com/search?q=You+Can+Leave+Your+Hat+On&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=You+Can+Leave+Your+Hat+On&tbm=vid
GuzziMoto Posted October 22, 2015 Posted October 22, 2015 I am all for scantily clad women, but some parts on my ladies perform a very useful function. I like to keep those parts whenever possible. Perhaps if you get ride of it off the handle bar but mount something down at the throttle body, like an old fashioned choke. That could be pretty cool and accomplish you goals as well.
Jet Posted October 23, 2015 Posted October 23, 2015 Hope Im only partially hijacking your thread.....Is that fast idle supposed to have a couple of stops/more tension on it? Ir is it supposed to be loose? When I select mine after starting it it just gently springs back, doesn't hold. Is that normal? I read here that someone figured out a mod to uses theirs as a secondary throttle..... Please and thanks......Also, if mine turns out U/S or broken and I need a new one......Scud you selling one? Thanks, R
GuzziMoto Posted October 23, 2015 Posted October 23, 2015 See the fourth post down. If you want more info on that do a search on this forum (or use Google). The stock spring for the fast idle is typically too stiff. The stock spring for the seat release is on the soft side. Swapping the two can make both work better. Or just replace the fast idle spring with a softer spring. But the seat release spring seems to work, at least for me.
docc Posted October 23, 2015 Posted October 23, 2015 See the fourth post down. If you want more info on that do a search on this forum (or use Google). The stock spring for the fast idle is typically too stiff. The stock spring for the seat release is on the soft side. Swapping the two can make both work better. Or just replace the fast idle spring with a softer spring. But the seat release spring seems to work, at least for me. +1 - swapping the springs seemed good for me, although wouldn't mind if the seat latch spring were a little softer as well. Not sure what makes the internal friction in the thumb lever, or can it be tightened? No matter what, be certain your idle is really high enough to begin with and the high idle control becomes more a matter of convenience. (I prefer my idle on the high side, 1200-1400 depending on conditions).
Scud Posted October 25, 2015 Posted October 25, 2015 So... I just compared three of these springs. Scura - known stock spring, works poorly - won't hold a fast idle '02 Parts Bike - same spring as Scura '03 LeMans - much weaker spring in poor condition - worked great, until I put the one off the parts bike on. Now it's just as bad as the Scura Conclusion - I need to go to the hardware store and find me some weaker springs.
Scud Posted October 25, 2015 Posted October 25, 2015 Here's a Goldilocks story. The large black spring is from my Scura, it was too strong - the lever was hard to move and it did not stay in place; it returned to slow idle by itself. The small, bent spring is from my LeMans, it was too weak - the fast idle would not always return to normal after returning the lever to "off" position. The center spring is from the hardware store, it is just right (after being cut). I added a rubber washer - just 'cuz it seemed like a good idea. And now both bikes are happy. Not sure what makes the internal friction in the thumb lever, or can it be tightened? Since I had one these assemblies easily accessible, your query is my command. Here is the disassembled lever. The steel washer on the left is a curvy-spring washer; it keeps tension on the inside pieces. The main internal friction comes from sliding the little tab on the right. You can see where the inner ring has a cut-out. This functions like a spring to push the tab against the inside surface of the outer ring. It cannot be adjusted. 1
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