Guest russ Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 After returning from a ride today of about 200 miles at near triple digit speeds with my local dealer and some others I had a problem that has popped up before but I thought was fixed. Here are the circumstances; About 70 degrees, bike was running fine (exceptionally well actually), tank about 1/4 left +/-. The bike starts sputtering and losing power. Then Stalls. It will start (reluctantly) rev some but as soon as you let the clutch out it stalls. Wait 20 minutes and then it is like it never happened. Got home pulled tank, no loose hoses but it acts like it is sucking air into the system? This is the third time that this has happened. I have found the petcock hose loose the first time but not this time. Charcoal Cannisters are gone, tipover valve remains. I think (but not sure) that the tank is less than half full at least the last two times. Any ideas? I plan to replace gas and air filters because they are close to due. Remove tipover all together? I will also replace the hose clamps that were on the bike with better units? Thanks for your input that I know will come.
Mike Stewart Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 Russ, When this happens do you also get tank suck? On my 00 V11, I had to remove the tipover valve to prevent tank suck. Also, the electric petcock has caused some problems and the replacement unit is a manual petcock valve. Hope you find it, Mike
al_roethlisberger Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 Any relation to this thread? Fuel Pump Phizzle? al
jrt Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 Without any other info, it does sound like a vacuum (tank suck territory). Try removing the tipover valve o-ring (grommet?) just under the gas cap. You can remove it without any damage and you can put it back if you want. I bet you'll never put it back. Cheers, Jason
emry Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 Yank the tipover. I always figured if my bike tipped over (waded) that I hope it would leak gas and catch fire. Then I could tell my uninsurence company that it caught fire and then caused me to crash. Just be sure and set fire to the valve and throw it with the rest of the mess at the wrecking yard. :!: Don't try this at home folks.
Guest russ Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 Russ, When this happens do you also get tank suck? Also, the electric petcock has caused some problems and the replacement unit is a manual petcock valve. No think I am going to replace all the fittings (clamps) with proper FI types. Can you believe that Guzzi uses Hose clamps!!!??? I will also remove the tipover completely. Hopefully that'll fix it. The 02 LeMans has a Manual Pet. It's frustrating because it can go weeks w/o ocurring and then out of nowhere. I am starting to wonder why it seems to be happening on a fairly low tank though?
Mike Stewart Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 Russ, When you remove the tip-over valve, run a length of hose from the fuel tank over the engine and have it exit in front of the rear wheel ( I believe there are some other hoses that follow the same path). I like this method better than removing the o-ring seal from the gas cap. If the bike tips over, fuel will come out of the hose under the bike instead of coming out through the fuel cap. It is a safty thing, just incase you go down and caught under the bike, you would not want a lap full of fuel or the tank leaking on a hot motor. Mike
bento Posted January 26, 2004 Posted January 26, 2004 check for debris around your clutch safety switch. my sport was doing that because i caught a bug there, and the switch had to be cleaned out. i told you guys to put duct tape over that!!!
docc Posted January 27, 2004 Posted January 27, 2004 Heck, I thought the clutch switch runs current to the starter relay. Such that, if it gets mucked up the bike won't start reliably. I didn't think it would affect the motor after it's already running? ? ?
bento Posted January 27, 2004 Posted January 27, 2004 well, it's wierd. if you just keep flogging the throttle it kinda goes away. i think there's something like, " under 10 mph you turn off" and then an intermitent dead electrical system later. i'm telling you man, it's what happened to my sport. my mechanic took the switch apart n put it back together and all was loverly.
docc Posted January 27, 2004 Posted January 27, 2004 Well, for sure the clutch switch is out in the funk and benefits from a periodic clean, dielectric grease and seal. Just from the wirng diagram, it routes power from the start button to the starter relay to engage the starter solenoid. There are three points of concern in the run circuit : 1) The power to the ECU/FI relays goes through a single connector located under the relay stack. While it is a weather tight AMP connector, it does sit just above the rear fender and will benefit from a clean, inspect, dielectric grease. afterall, all the power to run must go through it. 2) When in neutral, the power to the run switch is through the middle (neutral) relay referred to as the " safety relay for stand " in the manual. It is not activated by the side stand but by the neutral switch. The neutral switch is prone to sticking ( always park in gear) but will not interupt running, just that the neutral indicator light will stick on. 3) When in gear the power to the run switch is through the side stand switch situated on the leading end of the side stand. This switch is really down in the muck! And all the power to the run switch goes through it. Periodically inspect ( along with the wires which run along side the alternator cover), clean with a spray contact cleaner and force in dielectric grease. If power to the run switch is impeded through the side stand switch , shift into neutral to see if normal running is restored as the 'neutral relay' provides an alternate route for power to the run switch . Keep the smoke in the wires!
Guest russ Posted January 27, 2004 Posted January 27, 2004 There are three points of concern in the run circuit : Guys this is not an electrical issue. It is a fuel or fuel injection issue. After pulling th tank off and chcking the lines and connections for air leaks I can only come up with the tipover valve. I will remove it and see if it occurs again. We'll see........
twhitaker Posted January 27, 2004 Posted January 27, 2004 I had a very confounding problem with my California 1100i last summer that I was certain it was in the fuel system. I replaced the fuel filter. It had 56,000 miles on it and it was almost as clean as the new one. I was making plans for rebuilding the injectors. I considered replacing the TPS. My wife got the best of me (I hate to admit defeat) and we took it to the dealer. Their investigative efforts centered on the relays. Sure enough that was the problem all along. Mine acted like it was starving for fuel. As it was, the ECU relay was cutting in and out, causing the symptoms. On my Cali there is a brown wire coming out of the relay socket that provides power to the fuel injection pump. I have to jiggle it every once in a while. I wrote on the blackboard a thousand times, "I will never assume it is the fuel system. It's the electrical system that controls the fuel system."
Guest russ Posted January 28, 2004 Posted January 28, 2004 I will definitely remember that if it occurs again. The tipover valve is now gone. We'll see if it happens again. Unfortunately it may be months (or hopefully never) until that happens.
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