Starter Button

[andy york]

It seems the starter button has lost its ability to make magic smoke. 
I will pull the tank and make sure my hardwired side stand switch is still hardwired, 

but other wise, I am using my new key.... screwdriver across starter solenoid. 

It works everytime. 

I haven't wasted to much brain power on this one but I think I would just like to wire in a different button 

or maybe even a key switch like my old V7 sport has. 

Any ideas  ?     Roy     this one is for you     hahaha 

andy 

[Kiwi_Roy]

When you get the tank off pull out the ECU relays 4 & 5 then find the bullet connectors (59)

Check they are clean and tight, they have a bad reputation.

 

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif  the 2004 shows the same wiring so chances are the 2002 is the same.

 

When you turn the key on and press start you should get 12 Volts at the LH bullet connector

Then check the clutch switch it will be open circuit until you pull the clutch in then should read

From the RH connector you should be able to read the resistance of the start coil to chassis, about 100-120 Ohms.

 

Why did you pull the 2 ECU relays?

Trust me, there's lots of gas left in the fuel pump, I know I have sprayed it around several times, taking the relays out disables the pump.

[Admin Jaap]

My starter button was a bit corroded at one time. Took it apart, cleaned it, put it back together, problem solved.

[gstallons]

You can use an electrical grease ( not dielectric compound ) or Stabilant 22 on the contacts . The $tabilant 22 is a pricey liquid you apply to the contacts after you buff or use a pencil eraser to remove the corrosion or coating.

[andy york]

by the way    I have a new starter button assembly complete. Unplug old one -plug in new one -  nada

back to the screwdriver    

[Zooter]

by the way I have a new starter button assembly complete. Unplug old one -plug in new one - nada

back to the screwdriver

points at a duff relay?

[ferguzzi]

Oh, for the love of God!

This f**king starter issue is really getting on my tits. I was planning on doing a write up on how I fixed mine, but it's still not sorted. New starter, new regulator, new fuses, new relays, wiring bypassed from the relays to various parts, all the usual bits checked for corrosion etc.

It still won't start every time.

Next up is to bypass the clutch and side stand cutout lines.

I've fixed/ replaced everything else at this stage, so how many other things can it be????

 

Pissed off in Ireland....

[Kiwi_Roy]

Won't start is not giving us much to go on.
Do you get a click from the start relay?
Do you get a clunk from the starter solenoid?
Have you measured the battery Voltage while trying to start?
Have you measured the Voltage across the starter itself?
Does the headlight go out when you press start?

Have you wiggled the bars from Lock to Lock? (bullet connectors on the clutch switch under tank)

[Kiwi_Roy]

Just blindly replacing stuff is no way to troubleshoot, use a simple step by step method.

A small light bulb attached to a pair of wires is a great troubleshooting tool, better in many ways than an expensive meter.

A 12 Volt LED is the best because it won't get broken like a glass bulb, I usually carry one on my bike when traveling.

Always test your light by touching the battery first.

 

Assuming your failure to start is the starter not turning over.

Attach the bulb to chassis and to a point somewhere in the start circuit for example to the 85 pin of the start relay, then you will see it lights whenever you press Start. Next time it fails to start look at the light, if it's not On you know where to focus, back towards the start button.

If it is on then you move to a different location perhaps 87 of the start relay or the solenoid trigger terminal.

 

You can also use your lamp as a crude Voltmeter to check the battery Voltage while trying to crank, if it appears to be flat make sure you also try it on the negative terminal, this will pick up a bad ground. (an LED might be a bit tricky there because the polarity would be wrong)

 

A word about my favorite LED from www.superbrightleds.com the type 194 specifically WLED-R-90 substitute G, A or B for R depending on the colour you need.

Why do I like this one?

It has a bridge rectifier built into the base so you don't have to worry about polarity, the rectifier takes care of that.

If you are building a panel all you need to do is drill a hole and glue it in from the back, it doesn't need a lampholder.

It glues nicely into the V11 idiot light system eliminating those flakey rubber lamp holders.