docc Posted August 22, 2017 Posted August 22, 2017 docc , how do you pronounce talischook ? With a big, silly grin.
coreytrevor Posted August 23, 2017 Posted August 23, 2017 I went for a 130 mile ride after reassembling the whole bike, took one break in the middle of nowhere, came home, shut off the bike, went to restart it to lower the idle and the 7 year old battery open-circuited. If it had happened one start earlier I would have been badly stranded. So I ordered a Shorai, should be about 8 pounds lighter.
Scud Posted August 23, 2017 Author Posted August 23, 2017 I'll be curious to hear about your experience with the Shorai. Where does 130 miles get in you in the Eastern Sierras?
coreytrevor Posted August 23, 2017 Posted August 23, 2017 I was up the 6 to Benton, then the 120 Northwest almost to the 395, and back. I avoid the freeway like the plague. I will post something up about the Shorai once it's installed. The real test will be in the winter.
Scud Posted August 23, 2017 Author Posted August 23, 2017 ...Benton, then the 120 Northwest almost to the 395, and back. That section of 120 is great. I rode it 3 or 4 times on my last trip there in May. I love the giant whoops that you can't see over and then the drops that compress the suspension at the bottom. It's like a giant roller-coaster. So cool that those roads are in your back yard.
coreytrevor Posted August 23, 2017 Posted August 23, 2017 Yes, you have to hit those at at least 70, if you lift your feet off the pegs you can keep your rear from lifting off the seat. Except in heavy crosswinds.
footgoose Posted August 24, 2017 Posted August 24, 2017 @Footgoose, this might be a winter project. I'm thinking of replacing with another replacement spring. The dudes at MG Cycle said they hadn't heard of any other reports of breaking. Weighing against coming up with a home brew system and the fettling it's going to take for it to be right, will for sure have me going into the pre-selector a few times. On top of that I don't have a way to accurately drill the hole flat. In the Midwest the riding season is short and I have a little bit of a ride coming up I don't want to miss. Going to live dangerously... @czakky.. I have several parts left from my "alternate" to pawl arm spring project. If you want to give it a shot, I'll send you what I have and a list of what I don't have to complete this as I did it. This evening I got the last pieces on and all the fluids in. Very short ride around the block. It all seems to be working. Smell of baking motor paint is abundant. The shifting is very nice with the LuckyChuck arm in. The extension spring on the shift pawl arm is working. The RAM clutch is a Very light pull. 1 finger will do it. Shake down this weekend!
gstallons Posted August 24, 2017 Posted August 24, 2017 Can you post the parts , part #s for all of us ?
docc Posted August 24, 2017 Posted August 24, 2017 @Footgoose, this might be a winter project. I'm thinking of replacing with another replacement spring. The dudes at MG Cycle said they hadn't heard of any other reports of breaking. Weighing against coming up with a home brew system and the fettling it's going to take for it to be right, will for sure have me going into the pre-selector a few times. On top of that I don't have a way to accurately drill the hole flat. In the Midwest the riding season is short and I have a little bit of a ride coming up I don't want to miss. Going to live dangerously... @czakky.. I have several parts left from my "alternate" to pawl arm spring project. If you want to give it a shot, I'll send you what I have and a list of what I don't have to complete this as I did it. This evening I got the last pieces on and all the fluids in. Very short ride around the block. It all seems to be working. Smell of baking motor paint is abundant. The shifting is very nice with the LuckyChuck arm in. The extension spring on the shift pawl arm is working. The RAM clutch is a Very light pull. 1 finger will do it. Shake down this weekend! Can you post the parts , part #s for all of us ? This totally needs its own thread. Seriously.
footgoose Posted August 24, 2017 Posted August 24, 2017 Can you post the parts , part #s for all of us ? Oh absolutely. I want to be sure this setup works well enough before I bother everyone with details. I get a good nice long ride in, and I'll put the particulars here http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19827 1
docc Posted August 24, 2017 Posted August 24, 2017 Can you post the parts , part #s for all of us ? Oh absolutely. I want to be sure this setup works well enough before I bother everyone with details. I get a good nice long ride in, and I'll put the particulars here http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19827 There ya go. Once clarified, this procedure needs to be pinned in "How to . . ."
Stumble_t Posted September 3, 2017 Posted September 3, 2017 Today I removed the forks and shock so they can go in for a service and a re-spring for my weight. At 40mm rider sag in front and preload maxed out, I think a stiffer set of coils are in order. The rear was about the same at max preload. I also removed all the controls in preparation for fitting some clip-ons. Here's some before and after pics of todays work. 1
shiloh Posted September 3, 2017 Posted September 3, 2017 As I mentioned after buying my greenie, I noticed the bevel drive was weeping fluid. Was thinking maybe the big seal was pooched so I ordered a replacement viton seal. Leveling the bike I removed the inspection plug and a lot of oil poured out, obviously over full, the oil is a thick pinkish red colour and real frothy looking, is this normal?, never seen gear oil look that way before. I also added a smidge of seal conditioner to the mix thinking that would help in the mean time before tear down, after a spirited ride, the spilage was only a couple specs on the rim? Over fill causeing leak, conditioner plus proper level cleaning up the issue? Either way itseems to be better. When I get around to doing the replacement what can I use to flush out all the old frothy oil before replacing with new? Or does it matter, dont want to damage the other seals. Cheers
nobleswood Posted September 3, 2017 Posted September 3, 2017 Stumble, Interested in hearing what you do with the suspension. What do you weigh in at ?
Chuck Posted September 3, 2017 Posted September 3, 2017 As I mentioned after buying my greenie, I noticed the bevel drive was weeping fluid. Was thinking maybe the big seal was pooched so I ordered a replacement viton seal. Leveling the bike I removed the inspection plug and a lot of oil poured out, obviously over full, the oil is a thick pinkish red colour and real frothy looking, is this normal?, never seen gear oil look that way before. I also added a smidge of seal conditioner to the mix thinking that would help in the mean time before tear down, after a spirited ride, the spilage was only a couple specs on the rim? Over fill causeing leak, conditioner plus proper level cleaning up the issue? Either way itseems to be better. When I get around to doing the replacement what can I use to flush out all the old frothy oil before replacing with new? Or does it matter, dont want to damage the other seals. Cheers That sounds like Redline shockproof heavy. Maybe you lucked out, and won't need to do anything. The thing about this oil is it is so tenacious it will really stick to gears. When you drain it, all of it won't come out. Then.. if you fill it with the correct amount, the box will be over full. Don't ask me how I know.
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