What did you do to your V11 today?

[Rox Lemans]

1 hour ago, Lucky Phil said:

No it's, either a Stucchi or a Stucchi copy. They Mistral cross overs are rubbish as were the FBF ones. 

Phil

I have both a Mistral on one bike and Stucchi on the other. The Mistral is certainly better made. Heck, the Stucchi doesn't even line up the muffers right. One points up higher than the other if ther pipes aren't on the subframe bracket.

[footgoose]

57 minutes ago, Rox Lemans said:

I have both a Mistral on one bike and Stucchi on the other. The Mistral is certainly better made. Heck, the Stucchi doesn't even line up the muffers right. One points up higher than the other if ther pipes aren't on the subframe bracket.

Exact experience for me. My FBF was poorly made as well

[Pressureangle]

I have a (apparently, by age and application) a FBF crossover. It cracked in the center and was nicely repaired. I drilled it for an O2 bung in the center, thinking to get both cylinders, only do discover that it is no crossover at all merely two mashed flat pipes welded together. What a POS. 

[Lucky Phil]

3 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

I have a (apparently, by age and application) a FBF crossover. It cracked in the center and was nicely repaired. I drilled it for an O2 bung in the center, thinking to get both cylinders, only do discover that it is no crossover at all merely two mashed flat pipes welded together. What a POS. 

Yep they used to do that. 

Phil

Edited November 6 by Lucky Phil

[Tomchri]

22 hours ago, guzzigary said:

@Tomchri is that a Mistral crossover and header pipes?

Stucchi copy it looks like. Doesn't have the crossover suport.  But with the light mufflers, not a problem. Mistral crossover is well made, even lacking 0.4hp compare to Stucchi.

Cheers Tom.

[mikev]

A record stretch of warm dry days this Fall in southern New England is making for some great commuting rides, though sunset is a bit to early for my taste.  The ride is mostly on a secondary state road that is a favorite for weekend bikers.  I don't see too many bikes in the mornings but do on the way home in the afternoons sometimes.

One section near my home is under construction, stormwater drainage system install thru an area that occasionally floods, The road was in need of paving before the work started and now, numerous patches and it gets harder and harder to weave my way thru the less that smooth pavement.  I notice my rear suspension feels like it bottoms out sometimes going maybe 20-25 mph.  I increased the rear suspension setting but can't really tell if it helped much or not.  Is this normal or is there something I can check to better evaluate if the rear shock needs replacement or some different tuning?  Possibly a winter project I guess.

Edited November 7 by mikev

[audiomick]

8 hours ago, mikev said:

... I notice my rear suspension feels like it bottoms out sometimes ...

The question is, how bad are the potholes?

Of course it is possible that you need to look at your suspension. The bike is not exactly new. On the other hand, suspension can only cope with so much. If the road is shitty beyond reason, it might be just too much.

[docc]

9 hours ago, mikev said:

A record stretch of warm dry days this Fall in southern New England is making for some great commuting rides, though sunset is a bit to early for my taste.  The ride is mostly on a secondary state road that is a favorite for weekend bikers.  I don't see too many bikes in the mornings but do on the way home in the afternoons sometimes.

One section near my home is under construction, stormwater drainage system install thru an area that occasionally floods, The road was in need of paving before the work started and now, numerous patches and it gets harder and harder to weave my way thru the less that smooth pavement.  I notice my rear suspension feels like it bottoms out sometimes going maybe 20-25 mph.  I increased the rear suspension setting but can't really tell if it helped much or not.  Is this normal or is there something I can check to better evaluate if the rear shock needs replacement or some different tuning?  Possibly a winter project I guess.

@mikev, the 2000 Sport has a rather soft spring (springs, if you also consider the forks).  The original Sachs spring is probably good for a 165 pound rider (in gear) with no luggage or racks.

Have you "checked your sags?" If the sag is excessive, it cannot be properly corrected by simply cranking up the preload or increasing the damping.

[mikev]

This is my 3rd season on the v11 and my second season on the road 5 tires.

I put around 2k miles per season.

I didn't notice what I interpret as the rear suspension bottoming out till this year.  

It's a pretty shitty section of road.  

I have not checked the sags.  Will look for that thread.  

I am more than 165 lbs, haven't weighed that since high school probably. 

[PhillipLarsen]

My 2004 Ballabio is in really nice shape and has about 27,800 kms (17,300 Miles) but is 20 years old and was showing a few maintenance needs. My 2012 Stelvio has cut into the amount of Kms I do on the V11 over the last couple years.

The bike has never been outside other than when riding it and has only spent maybe 15 to 20 nights away from home where it stayed outside overnight. It is kept in a heated /cooled environment.

Earlier this summer I decided it was time to deal with all the items and do a thorough maintenance check to prepare it for the next 20 years. Kind of a 20-year block check (D check in large aircraft words).

It had a little bit of oil weeping at the cam case cover, the phase sensor, the rocker oil feed lines at the heads, sometimes some oil dripping out of the air cleaner box, the tires needing replacement, one caliper and one master cylinder showing signs of needing rebuild I created a work scope and have completed it over the last few months.

It has never had the TPS or Throttle Bodies touched other than me balancing between them using a balance tube.

This Forum with all the Experts and organized information made this a very enjoyable task. I appreciate all the people that have made their expertise and information available to everyone.

Included in the work scope was the Decent Tune Up. Bought the suggested cables/box for both Guzzidiag and Voltmeter

This was my first time using Guzzidiag, and my computer skills are not what they might have been 10 or 20 years ago.

I read all the threads and watched several videos before I attempted to use it.

The one item that took me a number of attempts was right at the start where you select Preferences when you enter the program (Language, the Bike Model and Com Port). I didn't realize you had to close that little window prior to being able to Select Connect under File. 

Workscope:

Front and Rear tires Michelin Road 6 Front 120/70 ZR 17 Rear 180/55 ZR 17 (4 rear (one was short life due to tear), 3rd front since new)

Rebuilt front and rear brake calipers, front & rear brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder. Fresh pads all calipers.

All flushed and fresh DOT 4.

Cleaned from fork seals using the thin film (they were not weeping but as a preventive measure, they were not near as dirty as the ones in my Stelvio)

Spark Plugs replaced with same type NGK BPR6ES

Valve clearances set to In .006 / Ex .008

Replaced Odyssey AGM Battery with Eliminator AGM battery (third battery including original, first two were Odyssey)

Crankcase vent hose – GU30157400                       Oil Pressure Switch – GU17768750                   Intake Temp Sensor (in airbox) – GU30729331

Phase Sensor/with O-ring – GU01721600                Cylinder Head Temp Sns. – GU29729461         Holder Cyl. Hd. Temp Sns. – GU03163330

Timing Cover Gasket – GU05001231                        Timing Cover Crank Seal – 90402840             O-Ring Spacer, Crankshaft (tim. cs) – GU90706178

Crush Washers, Rocker Oil line Feed at Head – GU90706010 (used copper replacement)              

Roper Plate, Upper sump gaskets (2) GU01003650, Lower sump gasket – GU01003600

Viton O-Rings at oil Cooler Lines and at Breather Return to Sump Line - GU90706010

Exhaust Crossover Gaskets – GU91113230, Exhaust Gaskets at head – GU90718370, and installed a restraint to ensure crossover cannot move in future

Air Filter – GU30113600, Oil Filter GU30153000, Dipstick O-Ring GU90706178

Although I had new Rubber sleeves for Airbox to TB and TB to head I did not install them as the originals look like new and are still flexible like the new ones.

Oil Motul 7100 15W50 4 L. Transmission & Rear bevel box oil replaced

Removed Bevel box to access front u joint, greased 3 fttngs (2 u joints, and spline)   

Removed Gianelli slip-ons and installed original exhaust.

Polished stock exhaust head pipes, front cross pipe / under transmission collector / using 400 thru 3000 grit. Came out very nice.                                         Removed Power Commander 3, measured TPS with TB fully closed (was 300 MV)

TPS set to 157 MV using Voltmeter (with everything disconnected), Right Side TB Idle screw backed out

TB Idle Air Screws removed, cleaned TB/screws, reset to -1 turn out setting

Engine run, Balance tube used to synchronize RH/LH TB at 2500 RPM

Guzzidiag used to read CO, check idle compared to Tachometer (it is accurate) CO was at 0, CO Set to +5.

Idle set to 1100 RPM using LH idle screw reading on Guzzidiag, correlates to Tach. Also noticed that TB balance is almost equal at idle as well.

Cleaned / polished bike. It is now pretty much original (except for heated grips and 2004 Lemans Upper triple tree plate/clip-on handlebars, and speedo cable with the Instruments moved up / forward about 2.5 inches to clear the clip ons.

Looking forward to Spring and riding the fresh V11

 

 

 

[footgoose]

^^^ Wow. nice. ^^^

[Gmc28]

9 hours ago, PhillipLarsen said:

My 2004 Ballabio is in really nice shape and has about 27,800 kms (17,300 Miles) but is 20 years old and was showing a few maintenance needs. My 2012 Stelvio has cut into the amount of Kms I do on the V11 over the last couple years.

The bike has never been outside other than when riding it and has only spent maybe 15 to 20 nights away from home where it stayed outside overnight. It is kept in a heated /cooled environment.

Earlier this summer I decided it was time to deal with all the items and do a thorough maintenance check to prepare it for the next 20 years. Kind of a 20-year block check (D check in large aircraft words).

It had a little bit of oil weeping at the cam case cover, the phase sensor, the rocker oil feed lines at the heads, sometimes some oil dripping out of the air cleaner box, the tires needing replacement, one caliper and one master cylinder showing signs of needing rebuild I created a work scope and have completed it over the last few months.

It has never had the TPS or Throttle Bodies touched other than me balancing between them using a balance tube.

This Forum with all the Experts and organized information made this a very enjoyable task. I appreciate all the people that have made their expertise and information available to everyone.

Included in the work scope was the Decent Tune Up. Bought the suggested cables/box for both Guzzidiag and Voltmeter

This was my first time using Guzzidiag, and my computer skills are not what they might have been 10 or 20 years ago.

I read all the threads and watched several videos before I attempted to use it.

The one item that took me a number of attempts was right at the start where you select Preferences when you enter the program (Language, the Bike Model and Com Port). I didn't realize you had to close that little window prior to being able to Select Connect under File. 

Workscope:

Front and Rear tires Michelin Road 6 Front 120/70 ZR 17 Rear 180/55 ZR 17 (4 rear (one was short life due to tear), 3rd front since new)

Rebuilt front and rear brake calipers, front & rear brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder. Fresh pads all calipers.

All flushed and fresh DOT 4.

Cleaned from fork seals using the thin film (they were not weeping but as a preventive measure, they were not near as dirty as the ones in my Stelvio)

Spark Plugs replaced with same type NGK BPR6ES

Valve clearances set to In .006 / Ex .008

Replaced Odyssey AGM Battery with Eliminator AGM battery (third battery including original, first two were Odyssey)

Crankcase vent hose – GU30157400                       Oil Pressure Switch – GU17768750                   Intake Temp Sensor (in airbox) – GU30729331

Phase Sensor/with O-ring – GU01721600                Cylinder Head Temp Sns. – GU29729461         Holder Cyl. Hd. Temp Sns. – GU03163330

Timing Cover Gasket – GU05001231                        Timing Cover Crank Seal – 90402840             O-Ring Spacer, Crankshaft (tim. cs) – GU90706178

Crush Washers, Rocker Oil line Feed at Head – GU90706010 (used copper replacement)              

Roper Plate, Upper sump gaskets (2) GU01003650, Lower sump gasket – GU01003600

Viton O-Rings at oil Cooler Lines and at Breather Return to Sump Line - GU90706010

Exhaust Crossover Gaskets – GU91113230, Exhaust Gaskets at head – GU90718370, and installed a restraint to ensure crossover cannot move in future

Air Filter – GU30113600, Oil Filter GU30153000, Dipstick O-Ring GU90706178

Although I had new Rubber sleeves for Airbox to TB and TB to head I did not install them as the originals look like new and are still flexible like the new ones.

Oil Motul 7100 15W50 4 L. Transmission & Rear bevel box oil replaced

Removed Bevel box to access front u joint, greased 3 fttngs (2 u joints, and spline)   

Removed Gianelli slip-ons and installed original exhaust.

Polished stock exhaust head pipes, front cross pipe / under transmission collector / using 400 thru 3000 grit. Came out very nice.                                         Removed Power Commander 3, measured TPS with TB fully closed (was 300 MV)

TPS set to 157 MV using Voltmeter (with everything disconnected), Right Side TB Idle screw backed out

TB Idle Air Screws removed, cleaned TB/screws, reset to -1 turn out setting

Engine run, Balance tube used to synchronize RH/LH TB at 2500 RPM

Guzzidiag used to read CO, check idle compared to Tachometer (it is accurate) CO was at 0, CO Set to +5.

Idle set to 1100 RPM using LH idle screw reading on Guzzidiag, correlates to Tach. Also noticed that TB balance is almost equal at idle as well.

Cleaned / polished bike. It is now pretty much original (except for heated grips and 2004 Lemans Upper triple tree plate/clip-on handlebars, and speedo cable with the Instruments moved up / forward about 2.5 inches to clear the clip ons.

Looking forward to Spring and riding the fresh V11

 

 

 

“D check….”

another aviation guy!  thankfully a “D check” is usually a one man job on the Guzzi :->. And I’m thinking that its more like a C check, since there’s no D-mate involved.

Sounds like that Ballabio should be good to go!

My Red has an oil seep which appears to be from the pan seal.  After the V85tt gets off the stand from its first-for-me annual go-through (how does A-check sound? plus some minor mods, all of which will only be “field approved”), i’ll get Red up there to drop the pan.  I’ll see about maybe one of the options others have suggested of getting a sheet of fine grit on a flat surface and doing a home-job of getting that pan mating surface cleaned up and flattened.  then a new gasket, and considering whether to use a smidgeon of hylomar, or trust in the clean up of the surface and new gasket. 

[Tomchri]

19 hours ago, PhillipLarsen said:

My 2004 Ballabio is in really nice shape and has about 27,800 kms (17,300 Miles) but is 20 years old and was showing a few maintenance needs. My 2012 Stelvio has cut into the amount of Kms I do on the V11 over the last couple years.

The bike has never been outside other than when riding it and has only spent maybe 15 to 20 nights away from home where it stayed outside overnight. It is kept in a heated /cooled environment.

Earlier this summer I decided it was time to deal with all the items and do a thorough maintenance check to prepare it for the next 20 years. Kind of a 20-year block check (D check in large aircraft words).

It had a little bit of oil weeping at the cam case cover, the phase sensor, the rocker oil feed lines at the heads, sometimes some oil dripping out of the air cleaner box, the tires needing replacement, one caliper and one master cylinder showing signs of needing rebuild I created a work scope and have completed it over the last few months.

It has never had the TPS or Throttle Bodies touched other than me balancing between them using a balance tube.

This Forum with all the Experts and organized information made this a very enjoyable task. I appreciate all the people that have made their expertise and information available to everyone.

Included in the work scope was the Decent Tune Up. Bought the suggested cables/box for both Guzzidiag and Voltmeter

This was my first time using Guzzidiag, and my computer skills are not what they might have been 10 or 20 years ago.

I read all the threads and watched several videos before I attempted to use it.

The one item that took me a number of attempts was right at the start where you select Preferences when you enter the program (Language, the Bike Model and Com Port). I didn't realize you had to close that little window prior to being able to Select Connect under File. 

Workscope:

Front and Rear tires Michelin Road 6 Front 120/70 ZR 17 Rear 180/55 ZR 17 (4 rear (one was short life due to tear), 3rd front since new)

Rebuilt front and rear brake calipers, front & rear brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder. Fresh pads all calipers.

All flushed and fresh DOT 4.

Cleaned from fork seals using the thin film (they were not weeping but as a preventive measure, they were not near as dirty as the ones in my Stelvio)

Spark Plugs replaced with same type NGK BPR6ES

Valve clearances set to In .006 / Ex .008

Replaced Odyssey AGM Battery with Eliminator AGM battery (third battery including original, first two were Odyssey)

Crankcase vent hose – GU30157400                       Oil Pressure Switch – GU17768750                   Intake Temp Sensor (in airbox) – GU30729331

Phase Sensor/with O-ring – GU01721600                Cylinder Head Temp Sns. – GU29729461         Holder Cyl. Hd. Temp Sns. – GU03163330

Timing Cover Gasket – GU05001231                        Timing Cover Crank Seal – 90402840             O-Ring Spacer, Crankshaft (tim. cs) – GU90706178

Crush Washers, Rocker Oil line Feed at Head – GU90706010 (used copper replacement)              

Roper Plate, Upper sump gaskets (2) GU01003650, Lower sump gasket – GU01003600

Viton O-Rings at oil Cooler Lines and at Breather Return to Sump Line - GU90706010

Exhaust Crossover Gaskets – GU91113230, Exhaust Gaskets at head – GU90718370, and installed a restraint to ensure crossover cannot move in future

Air Filter – GU30113600, Oil Filter GU30153000, Dipstick O-Ring GU90706178

Although I had new Rubber sleeves for Airbox to TB and TB to head I did not install them as the originals look like new and are still flexible like the new ones.

Oil Motul 7100 15W50 4 L. Transmission & Rear bevel box oil replaced

Removed Bevel box to access front u joint, greased 3 fttngs (2 u joints, and spline)   

Removed Gianelli slip-ons and installed original exhaust.

Polished stock exhaust head pipes, front cross pipe / under transmission collector / using 400 thru 3000 grit. Came out very nice.                                         Removed Power Commander 3, measured TPS with TB fully closed (was 300 MV)

TPS set to 157 MV using Voltmeter (with everything disconnected), Right Side TB Idle screw backed out

TB Idle Air Screws removed, cleaned TB/screws, reset to -1 turn out setting

Engine run, Balance tube used to synchronize RH/LH TB at 2500 RPM

Guzzidiag used to read CO, check idle compared to Tachometer (it is accurate) CO was at 0, CO Set to +5.

Idle set to 1100 RPM using LH idle screw reading on Guzzidiag, correlates to Tach. Also noticed that TB balance is almost equal at idle as well.

Cleaned / polished bike. It is now pretty much original (except for heated grips and 2004 Lemans Upper triple tree plate/clip-on handlebars, and speedo cable with the Instruments moved up / forward about 2.5 inches to clear the clip ons.

Looking forward to Spring and riding the fresh V11

Like chuck woud have said, attaboy.

Cheers Tom.

[gstallons]

Well , I walked around the stall and played musical battery charger with the bikes . Maybe I will be able to ride when it gets warm , my shoulder surgery goes well and I am not working 6-10s.

[audiomick]

Nothing on the V11. It's sitting in the garage waiting for me to start in on the leaking fork seal, the farting between 2 - 3,000 RPM, the Roper Plate installation, the gear shift spring, the lucky phil extender and "blueprinting"  the shift mechanism.

 

Today I looked underneath the V35. I had it apart to change the seals that face the clutch, and install a V9 clutch (brilliant, much lighter...). Now it's back together, and the more than a year overdue Roadworthyness Certificate has been renewed. But it is still dropping some oil. I think it is just the seal on the big oil drain plug at the front of the motor. Maybe not tight enough, maybe I should have changed the seal after all. Here's hoping it is just not tight enough. The good thing is, the look underneath it today confirmed that it is just dripping a bit, not pouring out.

Edited 18 hours ago by audiomick