What did you do to your V11 today?

[4corsa]

If you haven't already tried it, I highly recommend trying Seal-Mate before anything else on your leaking fork seal - best $7 I've ever spent. 

Turns out most leaks are caused by grit getting between your fork and seal. This little tool removes the grit in 5 minutes without scratching your fork. Its important to watch the video. It took care of my last 3 leaking fork seals on 3 different bikes:

https://sealmate.net/

 

[docc]

48 minutes ago, 4corsa said:

If you haven't already tried it, I highly recommend trying Seal-Mate before anything else on your leaking fork seal - best $7 I've ever spent. 

Turns out most leaks are caused by grit getting between your fork and seal. This little tool removes the grit in 5 minutes without scratching your fork. Its important to watch the video. It took care of my last 3 leaking fork seals on 3 different bikes:

https://sealmate.net/

 

+1 . . . success with the SealMate has impressed more than once.

[audiomick]

4 hours ago, 4corsa said:

If you haven't already tried it, I highly recommend trying Seal-Mate before anything else on your leaking fork seal -

Thanks for the tip, but...

it is not just leaking a bit. I went for a ride, about an hour and a half, and all was good. When I came out the next day, or the day after, I discover the entire oil content of the left fork on the ground under the bike. It is definitely not just a bit of grit under the seal. The seal has, for whatever reason, shat its pants and given up.

On top of that, the bike has about 70,000 km on the clock, and I have no evidence that anyone has ever had a look at the innards of the fork. Given that I can't be sure that this has been done in the recent past, it is about time to have someone who knows what he is looking at do that. The forks will be going to a professional. I'm just not sure yet if that will be the workshop that I take my "too hard or I don't want to do it myself" things to, or if they will go to a suspension specialist.

[MGrego]

Did the "Decent Tune-Up" this weekend.  -- Found the TPS voltage was way low, the CO trim was already at zero, and the vacuum caps on the intakes looked good but were nearly disintegrated !  Throttle bodies only needed a little adjustment to balance nicely at 2500 RPM.

My 2003 LeMans is running smoothly  -- Thanks to the Forum for the excellent instructions

[PhillipLarsen]

A few photos of my 2004 Ballabio after the major work

[gstallons]

On 12/23/2024 at 3:29 PM, MGrego said:

Did the "Decent Tune-Up" this weekend.  -- Found the TPS voltage was way low, the CO trim was already at zero, and the vacuum caps on the intakes looked good but were nearly disintegrated !  Throttle bodies only needed a little adjustment to balance nicely at 2500 RPM.

My 2003 LeMans is running smoothly  -- Thanks to the Forum for the excellent instructions

Do you recall the final settings ?

[MGrego]

I got the TPS as close to 157 mv as I could, after much fiddling finally tightened up at 155 and I called it "good".  The CO trim was already set at zero so that's where I left it. 

[audiomick]

3 hours ago, MGrego said:

...tightened up at 155 and I called it "good". ...

That is very good. I watched some experts setting up bikes with Guzzi Diag at the forum rally last year. The bloke on the computer  is Beard (Bernd) who programmed Guzzi Diag (the computer is inside the cardboard box that he is looking into). Karsten, orange t-shirt and overalls, was doing the adjustments. Going by what he was satisfied with for the TPS on various bikes, within 2 mV of the target is excellent.

 

 

 

[Bingbong]

Finally changed the speedo cable, then rode it slow and fast to make sure it was ok 👍 

[Lucky Phil]

On 12/26/2024 at 7:01 AM, audiomick said:

That is very good. I watched some experts setting up bikes with Guzzi Diag at the forum rally last year. The bloke on the computer  is Beard (Bernd) who programmed Guzzi Diag (the computer is inside the cardboard box that he is looking into). Karsten, orange t-shirt and overalls, was doing the adjustments. Going by what he was satisfied with for the TPS on various bikes, within 2 mV of the target is excellent.

 

 

 

I was under the impression that setting the TPS via Guzzidiag was not a good idea? Not accurate enough. Use a multimeter. I thought that was the view of Beard and Pauldaytona themselves or was it Meinolf. Has something changed.

Edited Monday at 01:24 AM by Lucky Phil

[Lucky Phil]

I machined the oil pump mounting faces on some spare Daytona crankcases I have and fitted some new foot pegs.

Phil

From this 

To this times 2.

Foot pegs

[docc]

8 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

I machined the oil pump mounting faces on some spare Daytona crankcases I have and fitted some new foot pegs.

Phil

From this 

To this times 2.

Foot pegs

Nice! Did you build those pegs from some titanium that was lying about?

[Lucky Phil]

5 hours ago, docc said:

Nice! Did you build those pegs from some titanium that was lying about?

No docc aluminium ones off ebay.

Phil

[audiomick]

19 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

I was under the impression that setting the TPS via Guzzidiag was not a good idea? Not accurate enough. Use a multimeter. I thought that was the view of Beard and Pauldaytona themselves or was it Meinolf. Has something changed.

It is correct that a multi-meter should be used to measure the voltage across the fully closed TPS, and that is what was happening in the photo further up. Beard was using Guzzi Diag to monitor other trivialities like CO trim, real r.p.m. (as opposed to what the tacho was claiming) engine temperature and so on.

 

It is not correct that Guzzi Diag is "not accurate enough" to measure the fully closed TPS value. Guzzi Diag "only" shows the values being used by the ECU for engine management, and does that absolutely accurately and reliably.

The point is, the ECU is not set up and programmed to process a value for "fully closed TPS". The resolution is not particularly high for the TPS values, I think only 8-bit, and the first step that registers as "not closed anymore" is several degrees open.

Therefore, Guzzi Diag cannot receive an accurate value from the ECU for the fully closed TPS position because the ECU is not discriminating between 0° and some several degrees open, and what Guzzi DIag doesn't receive, it can't display.

[Lucky Phil]

13 minutes ago, audiomick said:

It is correct that a multi-meter should be used to measure the voltage across the fully closed TPS, and that is what was happening in the photo further up. Beard was using Guzzi Diag to monitor other trivialities like CO trim, real r.p.m. (as opposed to what the tacho was claiming) engine temperature and so on.

 

It is not correct that Guzzi Diag is "not accurate enough" to measure the fully closed TPS value. Guzzi Diag "only" shows the values being used by the ECU for engine management, and does that absolutely accurately and reliably.

The point is, the ECU is not set up and programmed to process a value for "fully closed TPS". The resolution is not particularly high for the TPS values, I think only 8-bit, and the first step that registers as "not closed anymore" is several degrees open.

Therefore, Guzzi Diag cannot receive an accurate value from the ECU for the fully closed TPS position because the ECU is not discriminating between 0° and some several degrees open, and what Guzzi DIag doesn't receive, it can't display.

Don't know about others but the way I read your post was Beard was setting/checking TPS with Guzzidiag. Might just be me.

Phil