What did you do to your V11 today?

[Pressureangle]

11 hours ago, docc said:

Hm, Maybe it's a Firefox thing (that's what I'm on).

edit: Well, not visible on my iPhone using Safari, either.

FWIW I'm using the Dissenter browser, and I've had less utility issues with it than with Chrome; additionally Dissenter is second to none in privacy. <shrug>

[hammershaug]

 

[docc]

Very nice installation right in the dash, @hammershaug! Welldone!

I found the pre-set break points for the SparkBrite not ideal for the AGM, but they will customize the settings. I have a chart somewhere of the voltages more tailored to the PC545 AGM.

[hammershaug]

Thanks docc. Was it Eclipse or Monsoon you tried? Older series? My Eclipse seems to display the voltage precisely.

The auto-dimming functionality worked great last night.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[R.I.P. Mikko]

Anytime you can upgrade something and keep it factory appearing is always a classy touch! That looks and works excellent! 

[Lucky Phil]

On 7/10/2021 at 8:18 PM, hammershaug said:

Thanks docc. Was it Eclipse or Monsoon you tried? Older series? My Eclipse seems to display the voltage precisely.

The auto-dimming functionality worked great last night.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So from the Video the light seems to show the alternator not putting out above battery voltage? is that right? Doesn't the V11 alternator normally put out better than battery voltage at idle? I can't remember.

Ciao 

[docc]

29 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

So from the Video the light seems to show the alternator not putting out above battery voltage? is that right? Doesn't the V11 alternator normally put out better than battery voltage at idle? I can't remember.

Ciao 

That's a good question. The V11 alternator/regulator combo is "set" to 14.2V. An optimally functioning V11 charging system should throw this voltage at least from 2000-2500 rpm, but probably not at idle.  Unfortunately, there are far too many V11 being expected to idle too low (IMO), complicated by tachometers that "may" read optimistically. A tach reading 300 rpm off with an owner expecting a 1000 rpm idle (too low!) is actually idling at 700 rpm. Way too low for charging. Probably too low for idle stability and even too low for decent oiling/cooling.

I think (just my opinion/observations) that too many V11 owners also let their AGM battery fall below the Odyssey 12.65v charge threshold, then expect our flinky charging system to bring it back up. Probably asking too much. The melty 30 amp "charging"/regulator fuse, regulator diodes, regulator ground path, and stator wires would likely agree . . .

If I were to install one of these very clever, well designed LED voltage monitors, I would customize the voltage breaks for the Odyssey PC545 AGM.

[docc]

17 minutes ago, docc said:

That's a good question. The V11 alternator/regulator combo is "set" to 14.2V. An optimally functioning V11 charging system should throw this voltage at least from 2000-2500 rpm, but probably not at idle.  Unfortunately, there are far too many V11 being expected to idle too low (IMO), complicated by tachometers that "may" read optimistically. A tach reading 300 rpm off with an owner expecting a 1000 rpm idle (too low!) is actually idling at 700 rpm. Way too low for charging. Probably too low for idle stability and even too low for decent oiling/cooling.

I think (just my opinion/observations) that too many V11 owners also let their AGM battery fall below the Odyssey 12.65v charge threshold, then expect our flinky charging system to bring it back up. Probably asking too much. The melty 30 amp "charging"/regulator fuse, regulator diodes, regulator ground path, and stator wires would likely agree . . .

If I were to install one of these very clever, well designed LED voltage monitors, I would customize the voltage breaks for the Odyssey PC545 AGM.

Sorry, that was kinda "ranty," I suppose.

The set point from amber to green on the SparkBright is 13.2 volts, so a little above battery voltage (assuming a fully charged AGM is 12.84v), but still a full volt below the V11 regulator set-point (14.2v) or the minimum float charge voltage range (13.5-13.8)v. 

It will remain amber between 12.45 and 13.2.

 

[Gmc28]

Maybe not relevant or apples-to-apples, but my old ‘99 Cagiva/Ducati 904cc with mosfet and upgraded wiring+connectors+grounding, doesn’t go green till probably 2000rpm or so.   The odyssey in that bike is probably about 9yrs old now. 

[leroysch]

...and on my 916, it stays amber at idle....until the cooling fans kick in and turns red (at idle). At times, I find it useful to have that confirmation correlated with the coolant temperature gauge.

On the V11, I just mounted a cheapo voltmeter to get confirmation of RPM dependent battery charging overvoltage.

[Grim]

Found and fitted this screen, not sure. I'm going a bit further and wanted something to keep the wind off on the motorway.

It's a Fabbri 3021, meant for a Honda Hornet.  I had to try the mounts in every orientation before getting something close to fitting.

 

 

There's a bit of a gap at the top of the light, but I guess it's by design, as the bolt is going to be half way up the headlamp on most bikes with a round light, so the hight would have been no different on the intended Honda.

[Kane]

Looks good! It’s a Hornet screen! Sounds better than a flyscreen.

[Kane]

Put on a set of Michelin Road 5 tires yesterday. Only 100 miles on them so far, moderate riding, but they feel great. Lively and stable, more so than the Shinko Verge tires that were on before. The Shinkos were on the bike when I got it about three years ago, looked pretty fresh, and they are not bad, certainly pretty good mileage with them. I found a piece of metal, like an oblong nail head, stuck into the rear Shinko, and while it was not leaking  air (it turned out that what ever the metal was it did not go all the way through the tire), I figured that was a good sign to do what I’ve  been wanting to do for a while and try a higher grade of performance tire. I was also interested in the Metzler Sportec M9 RR, but I couldn’t find the front tire. I have been intertested in the Road 5’s for a while, and am pretty happy. The front is a 120/70 and the rear is a 160/60. The bike had a 170/60 rear on before, and the 160/60 profile no doubt is part of the lively feel. The bike feels lighter! I guess I am changing the overall geometry, too, but I’m not sure exactly how. And fwiw, these tires are made in Spain. I will post periodic updates on how these tires perform for the V11.

 

I also installed a new Odyssey PC545 battery (Hiya, docc!) and a new voltage regulator/rectifier from ElectroSport here in Southern California (made in China, but whatcha gonna do!). The old battery had a wobbly looking case from getting overheated, the bike was eating the 30A battery fuses like they were Lays potato chips, and my battery light would come on around 5k rpm. Now she’s running all of that cool as a cucumber, but I think the headligh bulb is toast. That will be next, this weekend, I just need to get home before dark until then! I love this bike!
Cheers!

[Kuni0]

I got over 13k miles from a Road 5 rear on my Le Mans, and I've consistently had over 9k miles on my heavier bikes (Stelvio, ST1300) with road 5's. I run ~42 psi on the rear, but I've rarely had issues with traction. 

 

[Lucky Phil]

28 minutes ago, Kuni0 said:

I got over 13k miles from a Road 5 rear on my Le Mans, and I've consistently had over 9k miles on my heavier bikes (Stelvio, ST1300) with road 5's. I run ~42 psi on the rear, but I've rarely had issues with traction. 

 

Not surprised with 230 kg dry weight and 80 WHP on a 170/180 section rear tyre

Ciao