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Posted
3 hours ago, Gmc28 said:

Every year I figure “I have all winter, easy.” But then late January I haven’t even started the work, which is the needed panic and motivation I need…

=me X - every year. Next thing you know it's time to ride. Can't wait to see how the paint turns out.

  • Like 2
Posted

Winter does provide time to do known maintenance...and sometimes provide answers to minor quirks which are noted during the riding season but insufficient to cause one (well, me) to launch an investigation while the weather is good. I had noticed some variability in my idle RPM's and variable engine braking effects while riding late in the season. Had the bike on the lift for..chores... and noticed this end of the throttle cable wasn't properly seated. The lead-in abutted the bracket, wasn't fitting thru it. (Pic shows it fixed) Ahhh...the little things......

20220121_122658.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Probably a good idea to groom the angle on the cable bracket so the cable has a straight run from the housing to the bell crank, then give the pinch gap a little squeeze. Throttle cables tend to develop broken strands there.

  • Like 4
Posted

Motivation gets harder to come by during these bleak winter days,and it usually takes a couple hours to get my garage warm enough to be comfortable. One more excuse I know. 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted

Took the Hepco-Becker side cases off the rack to work on reconditioning them.  I know it's not glamorous work, but I can do this work at my coffee table and not in the 45-50F garage.  So, I bought some snake oil from Advance Auto: Mothers CMX.  It promises to "RESTORE TRIM BETTER THAN NEW".  Here's the result; can you tell the difference?

20220125_171941.jpg

The one the right is the treated case.  It looks mildly better, but that may be a benefit of having been degreased and rinsed.  Here's the plan view:

20220125_171854.jpg

As you can see, there's not a dramatic improvement in appearance.   Anybody have experience with a plastic restorer that actually works well?  I don't want some shoe polish that rubs off on everything.

Posted
3 minutes ago, FreyZI said:

Took the Hepco-Becker side cases off the rack to work on reconditioning them.  I know it's not glamorous work, but I can do this work at my coffee table and not in the 45-50F garage.  So, I bought some snake oil from Advance Auto: Mothers CMX.  It promises to "RESTORE TRIM BETTER THAN NEW".  Here's the result; can you tell the difference?

20220125_171941.jpg

The one the right is the treated case.  It looks mildly better, but that may be a benefit of having been degreased and rinsed.  Here's the plan view:

20220125_171854.jpg

As you can see, there's not a dramatic improvement in appearance.   Anybody have experience with a plastic restorer that actually works well?  I don't want some shoe polish that rubs off on everything.

"210" Plastic Cleaner and Polish is amazing for shiny plastic surfaces, but for that matte surface I would try to restore them with Shin-Etsu grease. Let it soak soak in then buff with a soft brush. As always, "Test in a small obscured area first" . . .

  • Like 1
Posted

You can also use rattle can paints for plastic. With something that faded and with that much texture, paint might be worth considering.

  • Like 2
Posted
On 1/25/2022 at 5:59 PM, FreyZI said:

As you can see, there's not a dramatic improvement in appearance.   Anybody have experience with a plastic restorer that actually works well?  I don't want some shoe polish that rubs off on everything.

I use Meguiar's® Ultimate Black Plastic Restorer I have that same kind of discoloration on the black trim above the running boards on my Merc. Couple applications and it’s just like my soul…BLACK

You could also have this playing in the background. Am I Black Enough for You?
might be inspirational……

Posted

Today I drove the Le Mans to the Moto Guzzi hospital for a tires/tyres transplant. The older Michelin Pilot 2 are going to be replaced with Michelin Road 5.

The Le Mans was on the transplant list for a little while as it seems Michelin Road 5 seemed to be a difficult match.

Michelin came up with the Road 6:

15% more grip than the MICHELIN® Road 5 tire in wet conditions thanks to 100% MICHELIN® Silica Technology tread compounds and a new tread pattern featuring MICHELIN® Water Evergrip Technology™.

The MICHELIN® Road 6 tire delivers 10% longer tread life compared to the previous generation.

The MICHELIN® Road 6 tire typifies two decades of ongoing innovations and MICHELIN® Technologies from our highest level of expertise.

Why Michelin Road 5 for my Le Mans?

MICHELIN Road 5 tires offer superior wet weather grip versus leading competitors due to patented MICHELIN XST Evo siping and our latest 2CT and 2CT+ tread compounds*

Even after 3,500 miles, MICHELIN Road 5 tires stop as short as new MICHELIN Pilot Road 4 tires thanks to evolutionary MICHELIN XST Evo sipes.**

Enjoy better dry grip, improved stability and handling versus MICHELIN Pilot Road 4 tires thanks to Michelin’s patented ACT+ casing technology for even more riding pleasure.***

When I get the Le Mans back, probably a few weeks, this hospital only has one doctor, I will attempt to travel to the twisted sisters to verify if there is any noticeable improvement over my current Michelin Pilot 2 mount.

My current rear tire could have gone a little longer, but my front tire needs change. Seems like the Guzzi eats out front tires like there is no tomorrow; is this your experience?

Posted

@p6x I haven't tried the PR6 yet, but I prefer the PR4 over the PR5.  I've had PR4's on my Scura since I got it. My long distance bike, BMW K1600BGA, burns through 2 rear tires / yr.   So, my data is based on 3 PR4's and 2 PR5 rear tires. The PR4 just feels more hooked up.

  • Like 1
Posted

You can keep those high buck Michelins after my Greenie ate up a rear in <4k miles, ridiculous for sport touring tires IMO.  I'll stick with the Dunlops for half the cost and double the mileage.  

Posted
2 hours ago, p6x said:

My current rear tire could have gone a little longer, but my front tire needs change. Seems like the Guzzi eats out front tires like there is no tomorrow; is this your experience?

I've never had that experience on any motorcycle. I usually replace both tires when the rear is worn, because there is only about 20% or so remaining on the front. Maybe have a think about your tire pressures (I run 34 F and 38 R) or check your suspension or steering bearings. Or maybe you are doing a lot of hard braking?

  • Like 3
Posted

My MG’s eat fronts first, and my adv bikes burn about 2 rears for every front. 

The Dunlop equipped Goldie lemans rides noticeably “less nice” than the Michelin PR (4?) equipped Red lemans.  I don’t put enough miles on the lemans for me to worry about mileage-for-the-money as much, but I’ve got at least 5k on the rear Michelin in red and it looks to be in fine shape still.

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, bbolesaz said:

@p6x I haven't tried the PR6 yet, but I prefer the PR4 over the PR5.  I've had PR4's on my Scura since I got it. My long distance bike, BMW K1600BGA, burns through 2 rear tires / yr.   So, my data is based on 3 PR4's and 2 PR5 rear tires. The PR4 just feels more hooked up.

Funny you should say that, because I have heard about it from others too. The PR4 is better than the PR5. Maybe it is an indication why they came up with the PR6 so quickly?

I have very little experience with modern tires/tyres; all my bikes used the Dunlop K-81. I am just in my discovery period.

As I did with my car that goes through rear tires/tyres in no time, I intend to try all the major brands. But Michelin resonates with me because we want to the manufacturing plant when I was in the Army. Michelin designed and built the tires/tyres used on the AMX 10 RC, and probably still make tires for whatever APC Nexter is running nowadays.

 

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