Scud Posted March 31, 2022 Author Posted March 31, 2022 Maybe you should try just cleaning the pistons on the rear caliper first. 2
gstallons Posted March 31, 2022 Posted March 31, 2022 Get the rear wheel off the ground and apply the brake & release . If the rear wheel does not release and it is stuck , loosen the caliper bleed screw and see what happens . Do this a couple of times to see what happens . If it does not release , the problem IS the caliper & go to step 1 If the caliper releases go to step 2 . #1 . Pull the caliper off the wheel and push each piston out (w/the master cyl. pressure) to see which piston is sticking . If you feel capable remove all pistons and inspect . while you are doing all brake work , use Brake-Kleen only . No petroleum products. When you go back together , go to an old style auto parts store for some brake assy. fluid and reassemble. #2 Rebuild brake master cyl. Be deliberate in all steps and tests . 2
Pressureangle Posted April 1, 2022 Posted April 1, 2022 It's the dreaded 'outer rear drive needle bearing' day (s) Seems the only way to get the old one out is disassemble the drive? Then there's the bit about someone in the past using quite a bit more black RTV than necessary.
Lucky Phil Posted April 1, 2022 Posted April 1, 2022 14 minutes ago, Pressureangle said: It's the dreaded 'outer rear drive needle bearing' day (s) Seems the only way to get the old one out is disassemble the drive? Then there's the bit about someone in the past using quite a bit more black RTV than necessary. I would just use a blind bearing puller and failing that disassemble the bearing until all thats left is the outer race and then collapse that. I'm remembering the outer race on these is a formed sheet style and not a machined cage, is that right? If it's a machined outer ring I'd do the same then if I couldn't grab it with the puller I'd run a light bead of weld around the inside of the outer race and it will fall out. Ciao 1
Pressureangle Posted April 1, 2022 Posted April 1, 2022 19 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said: I would just use a blind bearing puller and failing that disassemble the bearing until all thats left is the outer race and then collapse that. I'm remembering the outer race on these is a formed sheet style and not a machined cage, is that right? If it's a machined outer ring I'd do the same then if I couldn't grab it with the puller I'd run a light bead of weld around the inside of the outer race and it will fall out. Ciao Yeah, still wondering what it'll take to wreck it apart. Considering the inside cover's adherence to the housing, prolly do that.
stewgnu Posted April 2, 2022 Posted April 2, 2022 you can ‘’carefully’ chew it out with a small cold chisel.
docc Posted April 2, 2022 Posted April 2, 2022 29 minutes ago, stewgnu said: you can ‘’carefully’ chew it out with a small cold chisel. A cold chisel is nothing without The Hammer . . . 1
Pressureangle Posted April 2, 2022 Posted April 2, 2022 The correct answer here is that the washer behind the bearing race has room to push the race out enough to catch the inside edge with a driver, and carefully drive it out from the inside. Use a soft punch or brass drift to move the (hopefully hardened) washer towards the outside, then move the washer aside to have just enough race to catch with a drift, which needs a good edge. Easy peasy. A proper blind puller on a slide hammer would make short work of it. Wish I'd known before I added some dimples to the outside race edge of the housing. 2
Guzzimax Posted April 2, 2022 Posted April 2, 2022 Took the “grape ape” V11 for its annual MOT roadworthyness test today. A pass so it’s back on the road after the winter hibernation. Oil & filter changed, but it needs a good tune up, 7 2
Joe Posted April 5, 2022 Posted April 5, 2022 So I took the rear brake off, found that it heated up enough to melt the rubber. So I got it cleaned up enough for a rebuild kit. It also left residue on the rear disc and wheel. 7
stewgnu Posted April 14, 2022 Posted April 14, 2022 On 4/5/2022 at 1:35 PM, Joe said: So I took the rear brake off, found that it heated up enough to melt the rubber. So I got it cleaned up enough for a rebuild kit. It also left residue on the rear disc and wheel. those bastards can get damn hot. i melted the anodising off the disc once. got to refresh it every year or so i reckon.
stewgnu Posted April 14, 2022 Posted April 14, 2022 I did a wheelie today!! ok .. so probs only about 3mm.. or that’s 1/8th of an inch to our fine US chums. ….But it still counts! 5
billgreenman1 Posted April 15, 2022 Posted April 15, 2022 Straightened out some stuff in the garage, changed the oil in the R1150R, and dropped some serious coin on De-ox-it and carbon conductive assembly grease.... 1
Pressureangle Posted April 15, 2022 Posted April 15, 2022 5 hours ago, FreyZI said: Same here. Do I need to be logged into to Google malware? I have never figured out why my posted pics are like quantum fluctuations. 1
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