What did you do to your V11 today?

[Joe]

[docc]

1 minute ago, Joe said:

Docc,  is the 1064 the same block as my 850?

That's out of my pay-grade, bud.

Here is an image of the susceptible O-ring on our V11 distributor blanking plate.

Yeah, these can leak after a bit  . . .

[Guzzimax]

Due to overseas business travel commitments I’ve been away for most of the past five weeks, so no chance for much riding. Yesterday was home early, beautiful summer evening, decide to go on a ride to a local pub around 25 miles away for a bike meet. Haven’t used my Griso much recently, so forgoing the pleasure of a V11 off I went. During the evening picked up a nail in the rear tyre - brand new Metzler Sportec only a month old less than 50 miles usage! Nail close to the shoulder - tyre supplier tells me unrepairable - another new rear tyre at GBP£180 ! 
Why is it that only new tyres seem more prone to picking up nails etc 

That was one expensive ride

[Guzzimax]

[4corsa]

Yea, it is true! I have picked up more nail or screw punctures in the first 500 miles of both new car and motorcycle tires than I care to recount. Being the cheapskate that I am, I probably would have still demounted yours and put a mushroom plug from the inside and used it for a few thousand miles.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

[Tomchri]

42 minutes ago, Guzzimax said:

Due to overseas business travel commitments I’ve been away for most of the past five weeks, so no chance for much riding. Yesterday was home early, beautiful summer evening, decide to go on a ride to a local pub around 25 miles away for a bike meet. Haven’t used my Griso much recently, so forgoing the pleasure of a V11 off I went. During the evening picked up a nail in the rear tyre - brand new Metzler Sportec only a month old less than 50 miles usage! Nail close to the shoulder - tyre supplier tells me unrepairable - another new rear tyre at GBP£180 ! 
Why is it that only new tyres seem more prone to picking up nails etc 

 

That was one expensive ride

Plug it, never had a problem with plugs, newer used mushroom types.

Even on fast bikes.

Cheers Tom.

 

[Pressureangle]

I'd use an internal mushroom plug. If you don't ride the sidewall fast and hard, it's highly unlikely to be problematic. Even if it fails, it will leak slowly and you'll get something more out of it.

[LowRyter]

I've had good luck with the Stop And Go plug kit

[Guzzimax]

Gentlemen, thanks very much for your advice, I’ll try the mushroom plug, I’ve already ordered a new tyre but this 180/55 x 17 will fit my black framed V11’s so if I can salvage it and get some use from it, it makes a lot more sense than scrapping a virtually new tyre

its been a bad month for tyres, 2 weeks ago whilst I was away my son was using my 330 Beemer, picked up a nail in a front tyre which deflated, but because it’s a run flat, it couldn’t be repaired, so a scrap tyre that was barely 5 months old, and being a front I can usually get +40,000 miles on RWD Beemers. I’d rather have a spare wheel & loose some truck space than the modern trend of run flats & tyre sealing foam…

Rant over, thanks for your advice

 

 

[LowRyter]

Max, Those plugs will work on your car tires too

[docc]

I had a 2009 3-Series with run-flat tires. Correct that, if they are punctured, they are not to be repaired. The rationale is that if they have been driven, deflated, on the structural sidewall, they are destroyed.  If, in fact, a puncture is discovered before the tire entirely deflates, it can be patched like a conventional tire. Just good luck finding a tire shop that will cooperate with that sensibility.

[Guzzimax]

7 hours ago, docc said:

I had a 2009 3-Series with run-flat tires. Correct that, if they are punctured, they are not to be repaired. The rationale is that if they have been driven, deflated, on the structural sidewall, they are destroyed.  If, in fact, a puncture is discovered before the tire entirely deflates, it can be patched like a conventional tire. Just good luck finding a tire shop that will cooperate with that sensibility.

Absolutely agree. I’ve never found a tyre shop willing to repair a run flat puncture. Even with a non deflated tyre that hasn’t been driven. I’ve even offered to take the wheel off the car, and take it to the tyre shop as a loose wheel to repair. No tyre shop will cooperate 

 

[Pressureangle]

Tire shops, like most service businesses in the U.S., are hamstrung by insurance regulation and litigious customers; if they don't follow manufacturer's protocol they open themselves to lawsuits. Wal-Mart will not install single tires. No brake shop will pad your old rotors without at least turning them. No alignment shop will touch your car without nearly new tires. The list is infinite. Tire manufacturers 'recommend' installing new tire pairs, for instance, only on the rear of front-drive cars. WTF? Simple- front tires wear faster, so they get that second pair more quickly. Air conditioning compressor manufacturers require replacement, not cleaning, of other components or your warranty is void. The service environment is engineered to maximize the fleecing, whether it be your fleece by the service agent, or their fleece by the lawyers and regulators. 
These are what economists call 'unwanted ingredients', and you pay for them everywhere. 

[Tomchri]

Meaning, do it yourself. Plugged my sons BMW 530 diesel last summer, all good. Run flat tires it was.

Cheers Tom.

[Pressureangle]

I replaced my intake rubber boots today. Along the way, I bothered to do some discovery on best method, at least on my '97 Sport-i. The winner is Lucky Phil- taking the intake manifolds off is enormously easier than working the boots otherwise. I'm not even certain I could have installed the new boots at all without removing the manifolds; the bar that ties my TBs together is very close to the frame bracket for the transmission brace and wouldn't move back much at all. As it was, I removed the clamps, pushed the rubbers away from the manifolds, removed the 3 mani bolts, slid the rubber back onto the manifold and off of the TB. The mani and rubber pop right out with only a little fiddling and no force. Reverse the process to install. It's easier to install the mani bolts in their holes and place the rubber before working the whole thing into place; take care with the threads as you have to keep the rubber from pushing them around. Installing the screws last is difficult because you can't slide the rubbers back away very far. A ball allen is nearly demanded. 
I had different gaskets on L & R sides. No info. Both sides stuck to the manifold and came off the heads clean. I cleaned the surfaces and put a very light coat of Permatex #2 to be sure they seal. 

Reinstalled my throttle rod, synched the TBs, set the TPS and tomorrow a test ride. Idles dead steady at 1100 now. Again.

Those throttle rod knobs are still in the works, but they are a secondary priority behind real work.