What did you do to your V11 today?

[Tomchri]

Reminder .  All my electrico has behaved perfect for a long time.  Thought l had a # 5 relay problem yesterday on the Rosso Corsa, idling perfect, but give it some trottle sputtering and almost dying. The connectors in the relay base are a bit to big for the small pins on the Omron.  They coud feel like fine inserting,  BUT.

Just mentioning, yes IPA time. 

Cheers Tom. 

[cowtownchemist]

So not today but over the weekend I got through my first valve adjustment, spark plug re-gap, TPS reset, and brake fluid flush performed on the V11.  Next up is the throttle body balance followed by the GuzziDiag CO trim adjustment.  I also acquired a few of those Viton o-rings to replace the originals on the air bypass screws.

Almost done with the decent tune up!

Is it recommended to re-map the ECU with the Meinolf map no matter what?  Or do the re-map only if a performance improvement seems necessary? 

[MartyNZ]

40 minutes ago, cowtownchemist said:

Is it recommended to re-map the ECU with the Meinolf map no matter what?  Or do the re-map only if a performance improvement seems necessary? 

You can save your original BIN file off the ECU using the reader. Saving takes about 15 minutes. Then you can load the Meinolf BIN. Loading takes about 10 seconds. Ride and decide yeah/no. Revert by loading the original BIN, or keep, it's a no-risk choice.

[Art]

Made a pair of hose barbs with 6mm threads on one end. These are to balance the carbs, someday when my regulator arrives.

Any one know what these are called?

And Strange but true. Was in my favorite locksmith shop to get a spare guzzi key made. That's when I discovered it was lost. Later in the day I found it in a parking lot!

 

 

[gstallons]

That won't happen again

[docc]

9 hours ago, Art said:

Made a pair of hose barbs with 6mm threads on one end. These are to balance the carbs, someday when my regulator arrives.

Any one know what these are called?

And Strange but true. Was in my favorite locksmith shop to get a spare guzzi key made. That's when I discovered it was lost. Later in the day I found it in a parking lot!

 

 

Commonly called "vacuum taps", I see the early Parts Catalog only shows a "screw" there.

Consider sourcing a tight-fitting silicone cap for those. The common rubber caps dry out, crack, harden and get loose. The kind of insidiously progressive vacuum leak that can be maddening with running issues.

[Art]

Mine have just the screw without any washer. Should I add an o-ring?

[docc]

15 minutes ago, Art said:

Mine have just the screw without any washer. Should I add an o-ring?

I forget what is under mine, but I think a washer would be better (one less place for a vacuum leak).  Pretty sure I posted a source for the silicone caps here somewhere . . .

[audiomick]

We're talking about the screws in the holes in the intake manifold where the vacuum gauges get connected to syncronise the throttle bodies, right?

 

At that position on various motorcycles I have only ever seen an aluminium sealing washer. That's what I would put in there.

 

Edit: no, wait. I changed those on my V35 Imola a couple of months ago. The originals were aluminium. The workshop gave me copper washers instead, because that is what the had in stock. They also work fine. The point is, it needs to be a sealing washer, not just a plain steel one.

[red lion]

How can I get the most current  Meinolf V11 map for a 2002 LeMans Is there a link?

[Speedfrog]

 

[FreyZI]

So, I had the champagne LM to the local-ish MG dealer Monday for inspection.  It would have passed, but for two problems -- front tire was pretty worn and brake light wasn't actuated by the hand lever.  Fiddling with the wires to the micro-switch ensued: two wires, three spades.  Tried the various combinations (before looking up the wiring diagram).  In doing so, broke one of the spades off.  Looking online at replacing the micro-switch, looks like a two-spade switch, so I wonder if this was a case of parts bin manufacture or replacement.  New switch on order.

Meanwhile, I lifted the bike from the sump and removed the front wheel to take for tire replacement.  Seems bearings are knackered, as there is enough play that wiggling the spacer results in a rattle.  Maybe that explains a little weaving at speed.  Surprised they didn't say anything about that on inspection....

In the box of random parts that came with the bike were two Fafnir bearings.  I had hoped that they would be what I needed for the front wheel, but they are 47mm, not 52mm.  Getting mixed information on the size of the rear wheel bearing and the final drive bearing.  If nothing else, they are the right size for the F800GS.

Should be street legal in a couple days.  Valve clearances check to come in the next week or so.  Meantime, what is that rattle at idle in neutral with no clutch?  Should I be worried?  Seems marginally better when very warm, but still disconcerting. 

[audiomick]

10 hours ago, FreyZI said:

 that rattle at idle in neutral with no clutch?  Should I be worried?

Goes away when you pull in the clutch lever? Loud and disturbing noise?

That's normal.

It's the clutch. It rattles when it is not engaged.

[guzzler]

Long weekend here....

So after getting a ride in Friday to see Dad, Saturday took the minister to the Dandy market ( a quarterly occasion ).

Today whist waiting for a reasonable time to fire up the chain saw and cut some firewood.

The bike got a long overdue wash clean and polish!

WooHoo she does scrub up well.

Cheers 

Ps Bloody hell Friday was cold windy and damp on my ride and last two days when can't ride weather's cool but sunny dry and no wind...go figure ha ha 

[gstallons]

Being nosey , what brand of saw do you use ?