czakky Posted December 31, 2015 Posted December 31, 2015 I recommend a light smear of "Hylomar" (really good stuff!) on both sides of the gasket. Remember that the timing chain is whipping oil at the mating surfaces. I've done the timing chest a couple times and never had a need for a rotor puller. The crank isn't tapered it just uses a woodruff key. The only trouble is keeping the crank from turning while you loosen the rotor nut. I usually lock the ring gear through the peep hole with a longish flathead screwdriver. It is a bit fiddly but can be done. It took me like six-eight hours total the first time I did it, could probably do it in three if I hurried after doing it.
gstallons Posted December 31, 2015 Posted December 31, 2015 Hylomar is great stuff if you can find it. Loctite 515 gasket maker is good also . REMEMBER , just enough is all you need. Don't go hog wild with any type of chemicals on gasket surfaces. I do NOT use silicone on any gaskets. After a while , the silicone will allow the gasket to creep and slide out of the mating surfaces .
nobleswood Posted December 31, 2015 Posted December 31, 2015 Isn't there an improved timing chain tensioner? Have any of you had experiance with that? Just thinking while you've opened her up why not replace it. Answered my own question. Here's the thread; http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18899&hl=%20timing%20%20cover&page=1 Scud, that seems to set this up as your winter project.
Bbennett Posted January 1, 2016 Posted January 1, 2016 I made sure the battery charger was working. My V11 requires a bit of help during the winter here in Seattle or it won't have the juice to start!
docc Posted January 2, 2016 Posted January 2, 2016 New Year's Day: 66 miles to meet a like-minded good friend. Low forties (ºF) made the heated jacket worth it . . . until the controller failed. Felt great to get out . . . mostly working on conditioning AGM batteries . . .
Scud Posted January 2, 2016 Author Posted January 2, 2016 While putting some new rear brake pads on the LeMans I made up a new "shop trick" that I thought I'd share: use a carpenter's shim to force the brake pads all the way back in and make it easy to get the caliper back on the rotor. BTW - it's very easy to do the rear brakes once you get the entire driveline and exhaust out of the way. 1
Chuck Posted January 2, 2016 Posted January 2, 2016 Moved the bikes so I could get to the snowblower. Is it an 1100 cc V-twin snowblower? It is only a matter of taking things off and putting things back together. Be sure to get a rotor removal tool to get the alternator off . I've appreciated your past tool recommendations, such as the Pit Posse wheel bearing remover (works like a charm). Could I trouble you for a suggestion about exactly what rotor removal tool to get? BTW - I ordered a timing cover gasket today. No rotor removal tool needed on the Ducati alternator. It'll come right off. Keep the rotor and stator together, it's a permanent magnet alternator, and can lose it's ju ju if the rotor and stator are separated for an extended period. You *do* know about the external ground wire to the regulator on this system, right?
czakky Posted January 2, 2016 Posted January 2, 2016 Just shoveled snow out of the way to open the doors to my v11's apartment, (shed) yup still there... Just a couple more months to go.....
Scud Posted January 2, 2016 Author Posted January 2, 2016 No rotor removal tool needed on the Ducati alternator. It'll come right off. Keep the rotor and stator together, it's a permanent magnet alternator, and can lose it's ju ju if the rotor and stator are separated for an extended period. You *do* know about the external ground wire to the regulator on this system, right? I had heard about the importance of keeping the electric bits together, but I always appreciate a timely reminder. And I have previously installed the bonus ground wire. That job doesn't look so bad after all - but it will have to wait till the LeMans gets back together.
Chuck Posted January 3, 2016 Posted January 3, 2016 No rotor removal tool needed on the Ducati alternator. It'll come right off. Keep the rotor and stator together, it's a permanent magnet alternator, and can lose it's ju ju if the rotor and stator are separated for an extended period. You *do* know about the external ground wire to the regulator on this system, right? I had heard about the importance of keeping the electric bits together, but I always appreciate a timely reminder. And I have previously installed the bonus ground wire. That job doesn't look so bad after all - but it will have to wait till the LeMans gets back together. Nothin to it, really..
Rox Lemans Posted January 3, 2016 Posted January 3, 2016 I finally had my Ghezzi-Brian rear hugger installed. Tried it without a lift and chickened out pulling the rear shock bolt so I put it back and had a local shop do it. I know , I wussed out.. It does look great though. It is a total pain to pop on but when installed looks awesome. It opens up the rear end and exposes that beautiful trellis swing arm. It's crazy that Guzzi covered it with that huge plastic fender.
Rox Lemans Posted January 3, 2016 Posted January 3, 2016 While putting some new rear brake pads on the LeMans I made up a new "shop trick" that I thought I'd share: use a carpenter's shim to force the brake pads all the way back in and make it easy to get the caliper back on the rotor. BTW - it's very easy to do the rear brakes once you get the entire driveline and exhaust out of the way. Doing the rear brake pads on the V11 is easy thankfully. These Brembos are pretty nice to work on. Small though. I am amazed how they threw on such a small caliper on a 550lbs bike. Can't wait to get my Scura with the 4 piston caliper from a V11 Jackal. Should of had a 4 piston from the start.
JBBenson Posted January 3, 2016 Posted January 3, 2016 While putting some new rear brake pads on the LeMans I made up a new "shop trick" that I thought I'd share: use a carpenter's shim to force the brake pads all the way back in and make it easy to get the caliper back on the rotor. BTW - it's very easy to do the rear brakes once you get the entire driveline and exhaust out of the way. Scud, I used the exact same trick. Works great and is progressive, so hard to overflow the reservoir using these.....
Scud Posted January 3, 2016 Author Posted January 3, 2016 Scud, I used the exact same trick. Works great and is progressive, so hard to overflow the reservoir using these..... Cool - I had never seen it done before, and when I tried it I thought "I can't be the first person to do this - it's soooo easy." I think for a four piston caliper, I will use two shims - one from each side to keep a uniform thickness. Just tap 'em together till they're thicker than the rotor.
orangem2 Posted January 3, 2016 Posted January 3, 2016 set the valves on my hopped up 2004 v11 cafe sport to .002 -.003. found additional midrange and top end! installed re-usable silcon gaskets and used new stainless hardware. also dropped(!) my 2003 ev11 touring in the driveway thnx to the spectacular design of the kickstand... i helped a little . it was a slow drop on the LH side, bent clutch lever and cracked the fairing lower, some small scratches on the LH saddlebag. new lever ordered from MGCYCLE new fairing lowers ordered from HARPER MOTO oh well, could have been worse!! happy new year...
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