audiomick Posted August 15 Posted August 15 (edited) 11 hours ago, gstallons said: ... Torx is a beautiful looking fastener BUT ,... . Why ? Nothing to do with bikes, but.. Up until a couple of years I was free lance as a sound engineer. Lots of jobs, particularyl corporate events, involved a stage set being built specifically for the event, mostly out of screwed together chipboard. And then there are trade fairs. The stands at those are a combination of modular wall elements and cut to fit and screwed on chipboard. The last couple of years I have been employed in an opera house, and had some time in a couple of theatres before that. The sets in a modern theatre are very often screwed down to the stage floor. They buy the screws by the kilogramme, I think. The all use Torx. Why? Because you don't have to concentrate as much when using a battery drill to screw them in and out as you do with a Phillips, or even a Posidrive. The Torx head is less inclined to spit the bit out. Transfer that to a motorcycle: as you say, the look good, and the assembly line worker is more likely to get them in without trashing the screw head. Edited August 15 by audiomick
gstallons Posted August 16 Posted August 16 Yes , that is black oxide . It does nothing to prevent rusting . When you look at elaborate torque tables it gives a value for them , plated , SS and IDK if there is one more or not ?
Lucky Phil Posted August 16 Posted August 16 Use Titanium and you never need to concern yourself with the surface finish ever again. If the bike was dumped in a salt water lake for 100 years all that would be left would be pristine titanium fasteners. Phil 2
gstallons Posted August 16 Posted August 16 11 hours ago, audiomick said: Nothing to do with bikes, but.. Up until a couple of years I was free lance as a sound engineer. Lots of jobs, particularyl corporate events, involved a stage set being built specifically for the event, mostly out of screwed together chipboard. And then there are trade fairs. The stands at those are a combination of modular wall elements and cut to fit and screwed on chipboard. The last couple of years I have been employed in an opera house, and had some time in a couple of theatres before that. The sets in a modern theatre are very often screwed down to the stage floor. They buy the screws by the kilogramme, I think. The all use Torx. Why? Because you don't have to concentrate as much when using a battery drill to screw them in and out as you do with a Phillips, or even a Posidrive. The Torx head is less inclined to spit the bit out. Transfer that to a motorcycle: as you say, the look good, and the assembly line worker is more likely to get them in without trashing the screw head. There is/was this contractor that is the best in the Tri-state area . I happen to be the man he trusts to take care of his mechanical needs. He tests everything he uses/works with . He found that the Robertson head fasteners were superior to Torx AFA spinning out , the lifespan of the tool bit , etc. 1
audiomick Posted August 16 Posted August 16 (edited) 8 hours ago, gstallons said: ... Robertson head fasteners... Yes, I've read about them, that they are quite good, and seen photos. I'm fairly sure I've never seen one in real life, neither in Australia nor here in Germany. Edited August 16 by audiomick
MotoKnee Posted August 17 Posted August 17 Wanted to have a look at the rear transmission and get some grease into the evil 3rd zerk. Took a couple of hours to assemble new front wheel chock, modify an old paddock stand, install some ceiling anchors, and get the wheel off. Took twice that long to get the zerk to take grease What is the best way to clean up these corroded parts? I wasn't going to remove the swingarm, but now thinking that would be the way to go. Or can it wait until winter maintenance season?
MotoKnee Posted August 17 Posted August 17 4 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said: Scotchbrite and WD-40 Phil Thx Phil, and just spray WD-40 in the needle bearing, followed by marine grease?
Lucky Phil Posted August 17 Posted August 17 (edited) 29 minutes ago, MotoKnee said: Thx Phil, and just spray WD-40 in the needle bearing, followed by marine grease? Sounds good. Have a look the the seals on the needle bearing outer as well. Phil Edited August 17 by Lucky Phil
gstallons Posted August 17 Posted August 17 14 hours ago, audiomick said: Yes, I've read about them, that they are quite good, and seen photos. I'm fairly sure I've never seen one in real life, neither in Australia nor here in Germany. He ordered all of his out of Ohio ?
FreyZI Posted August 17 Posted August 17 My new titanium rotor bolts arrived last night. Although I was careful in ordering, the bolts were not exactly as advertised. Specifically, the unthreaded shoulder was slightly longer than the 5mm stated on Amazon. You can see the difference: I was a little concerned that the shoulder on the new bolts would be too long to fit in the recesses of the wheel, but they appear to just fit in and snug up the rotor before bottoming. I think they look rather nice in gold. In case anyone is interested in weight, I have 2 extra, so I can weigh as compared to stock. However, as someone here once alluded to, the difference is probably equivalent to the difference between a quarter pounder with cheese or without cheese . So, as I was putting the wheel back on Bubbles, specifically, sliding the brake bracket onto the "block" (#37636105) to hand on the spindle, I realized that there is no block. As I had the back end apart after purchase to take stock and tidy up, I should have realized that the block was missing. Anywho, I'll be fabricating a new block. I can always measure the one from the Tenni, but it'd be easier if I could just get dimensions. I have this: But, if anyone has easy access to this block, could I get dimensions? Many thanks! Cheers, Frey 1
footgoose Posted August 17 Posted August 17 I have one loose. 21.98mm width (Your photo). 14mm height. 20.50 length or depth. hole is the same all the way thru at 9.95mm 1 1
Lucky Phil Posted August 17 Posted August 17 On 8/17/2024 at 3:26 AM, audiomick said: Yes, I've read about them, that they are quite good, and seen photos. I'm fairly sure I've never seen one in real life, neither in Australia nor here in Germany. They are very common here in the building industry and available just about everywhere. The fact that they don't use them commonly or at all in engineering that I know of probably tells you something. Personally I have no issues with Torx screws. Better than Allen heads for stripping out. Problem is generally with shallow head fasteners but you get that with Allen head as well in button head and countersunk screws that have a reduced slot depth. On a Guzzi lots of fasteners were installed with Loctite because Guzzi don't care about future maintenance requirements so you need to use lots of heat on those fasteners and then throw them away. I've never used loctite on any brake part on anything in my life. The classic is Loctite on the 4mm throttle body screws! Madness. Phil 1 1
FreyZI Posted August 18 Posted August 18 3 hours ago, footgoose said: I have one loose. 21.98mm width (Your photo). 14mm height. 20.50 length or depth. hole is the same all the way thru at 9.95mm Kinda looks like steel, not alu? Maybe brass would work...
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