GuzziMoto Posted January 3, 2016 Posted January 3, 2016 While putting some new rear brake pads on the LeMans I made up a new "shop trick" that I thought I'd share: use a carpenter's shim to force the brake pads all the way back in and make it easy to get the caliper back on the rotor. BTW - it's very easy to do the rear brakes once you get the entire driveline and exhaust out of the way. Doing the rear brake pads on the V11 is easy thankfully. These Brembos are pretty nice to work on. Small though. I am amazed how they threw on such a small caliper on a 550lbs bike. Can't wait to get my Scura with the 4 piston caliper from a V11 Jackal. Should of had a 4 piston from the start. I have never had an issue with the rear brake on the V11. I know it is pretty small, but it seems more than up to the task. The wife and I both rarely use it for much more than a parking brake, but even when we do use it we have no issues with it. It has never faded or failed to do slow the bike when needed. I am not sure what you will gain by increasing the rear unsprung weight. Are you changing the master cylinder as well?
Scud Posted January 4, 2016 Author Posted January 4, 2016 I've never lost my rear brake either and I don't use it much. But Rox lost rear brake pressure while dropping down Tuna Canyon on our "Scura Rally." It's four miles of nothing but tight, downhill corners. I did a lot of engine braking on that descent (was riding Chuck's Mighty-Scura for that section). Anyway - we all talked with Todd at Guzzi Tech at the end of the ride. Todd said he loses his rear brake pressure frequently while riding in that area - and from what I understand, he's a damn good rider. Todd's working on making a 4-piston rear kit and I think Rox is going to get the first one (or two). It will also come with a bigger master cylinder. I think it might be a good seller for him - to customers who use a lot of rear brake. I was reading Lee Parks' Total Control book - he said the shortest stopping distances are when a mild "stoppie" is performed. Since the rear wheel is actually in the air at this time, his conclusion is that the rear brake is nearly useless (at least for panic stops). For trail braking while cornering, he advises to use mostly front brake when going fast, and mostly rear brake when going slow.
Rox Lemans Posted January 4, 2016 Posted January 4, 2016 I got to ride the snot out of mine today. Took the back end of the Angelus Forest near Pear Blossum and Devils Punchbowl . Pretty sandy I noticed as I passed a bunch of skiers... Went up the back on Upper Tujunga Canyon noticing a downed rider with some CHP on the scene. Hit Newcolm's and then hit the rest of HWY2 across the Crest and back home. A low of a mere 46. Rear brake got hot and was progressively starting to fail on the downhill. Im going to check the fluid this week. Yes, I snatched the first 2 sets of 4 piston rear caliper setups from Guzzitech. It's basically a billet bracket with a 4 piston rear caliper off a Jackal with a bigger master cylinder. Todd at Guzzitech does a fantastic job on these.
GuzziMoto Posted January 5, 2016 Posted January 5, 2016 I agree with Lee Parks. But, that said, I am still not sure how well a larger caliper is going to help with heat fade. A bigger caliper allows for larger pads, and it does have a larger amount of fluid behind the pistons. Either or both of those might help a little. But the best cure for brake fade is a larger disc. 1
nobleswood Posted January 5, 2016 Posted January 5, 2016 I finally had my Ghezzi-Brian rear hugger installed. Tried it without a lift and chickened out pulling the rear shock bolt so I put it back and had a local shop do it. I know , I wussed out.. It does look great though. It is a total pain to pop on but when installed looks awesome. It opens up the rear end and exposes that beautiful trellis swing arm. It's crazy that Guzzi covered it with that huge plastic fender. Rox, Can you put up a picture or two of the hugger ?
Chuck Posted January 5, 2016 Posted January 5, 2016 Filled the tank an put Stabil in it before the rains came. Put it on the work stand with a block under the oil pan to keep both wheels off the floor. Said sleep well to it..
Scud Posted January 7, 2016 Author Posted January 7, 2016 I dropped off a pair of porkchops at the powdercoater - along with some more stuff that needed to be blacker.
JBBenson Posted January 7, 2016 Posted January 7, 2016 Looked at mine freezing in the garage and wondered when I will have time to install the Roper plate and change the oil and filter.....
stewgnu Posted January 7, 2016 Posted January 7, 2016 Temporarily fitted a 60mm cap-head screw where the (snapped) sidestand foot'uk used to be. It works. The occasional dry-ish moment over the last few days has allowed me to spank her about town. Which is nice.
Kostarika Posted January 14, 2016 Posted January 14, 2016 Shoveled snow and made sure everything was looking well in the garage. 1
nobleswood Posted January 14, 2016 Posted January 14, 2016 Filled the tank an put Stabil in it before the rains came. Put it on the work stand with a block under the oil pan to keep both wheels off the floor. Said sleep well to it.. Chuck, I thought you were hoping to bring the Scura to Indiana ?
cola Posted January 15, 2016 Posted January 15, 2016 Swapped the battery conditioner from the SP3 to the V11. Think the old car needs a go next. Maybe I should be less of a cheapskate and get one for each ...
toofat2fly Posted January 22, 2016 Posted January 22, 2016 Pushed the Tenni start button and it worked. Went back into the house with a beer bottle in my hand.
JBBenson Posted January 25, 2016 Posted January 25, 2016 Installed a Roper plate with help from Scud. Note to others considering it: NOT a 30 minute job.
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