What did you do to your V11 today?

[JBBenson]

New tires! Got a set of Dunlop Roadsmart 3’s. After the rebate only 280 bucks installed. Also got angled valve stems at the same time.

I went back up to a 170 rear in an attempt to slow the steering down a bit and it worked. Less of that tippy feeling and more planted in turns than before. Now it really handles well.

I recommend anyone with a red frame bike raise the forks 10mm (dropping the front end), get a 10-15mm longer shock in the rear (which will raise the rear 20-30mm) and go back to a 170 tire (which will raise the bike another 1/4” in the back).

Sure, this is all counter intuitive for a bike that has a “squirrelly handling” reputation, but it works. On that note, at it's core, what is not counter intuitive about Moto Guzzi...?

 

 

[LowRyter]

I've had good luck with the Dunlops on my Sport.  I think I am up to my 4th Dunlop rear.

 

I am curious about your suspension.  I would think that raising the rear and lowering the front would make the bike even steer quicker and less stable?

 

I am far from a suspension expert on my bikes. The issue for my Sport is weave when loaded with saddle bags.  I had the rear shock rebuilt and went to a stiffer spring.  This keeps it in the sweet spot rather than maxing out the preload.  Also fixed the clickers which didn't work before.  But I think the change that helped me most was softening the fork with the two adjusters, which I should've done all along.  I keep a small screwdriver and dial back the fork when I am carrying bags.  It seems like the front is pretty stiff.

 

And I also played with my Suzuki Bandit 1200.  For 82k miles, it's always been a big bugger in the twisties.  I've done springs and Gold Valves in the fork and Progressive rear shock.  Certainly an improvement but still wasn't enough.   Finally after 20 years, I raised the forks a quarter inch and dang, it's a pretty lively beast and seems 50lb lighter.  Steers quick, holds the line and doesn't seem to stand up.  Maybe it's the placebos?  

[JBBenson]

I know, it doesn't make sense, but having discussed a lot with Todd Eagan, he convinced me it would feel better if I raised the rear, having explained everything else I had done: dropping the front, respringing the forks, and 160 rear tire.

 

So I ordered a Hyperpro 12mm longer than stock, (290mm vs. 278mm) with +/-5mm length adjustment. The 12mm extra was already way better, so I added another few mm's. Much better! Going back to the original 170 rear tire was really the kicker. Both the shock and larger rear tire just helped make the entire suspension quiet and less nervous. I like using a positive action to initiate turns, "push left to go left", so maybe some personal taste there. I don't like bikes that are too easy to turn.

 

I have struggled a lot with getting this bike the way I wanted it. Having thought about the counter intuitive nature of the actions I took, I think that what is important is the relationship between rake, trail and frame length is what is important, not any one measurement. So maybe the shorter frame needs steeper rake to work together better.....?

 

The best handling bike I have ever ridden was my 1st generation Aprilia Caponord, which was the most neutral handling bike I have ever ridden. I want the Sport to get close to this standard.

 

Your weaving could be a few things, which I am sure you have already addressed. maybe try a longer shock and going back to a 170 rear? I also suspect it may be an aerodynamic issue with large, hard cases at high speed, it creates a lot of drag and a large low pressure area behind the bike, effectively lightening the front end.

 

If it only weaves with the cases on, I would say its aerodynamic problem. The above mentioned Caponord handled differently when I had the rear cases on, they acted as a spoiler and made the front end very light above 60mph.

 

I don't know a lot about suspensions either, but the changes I have made (most of them out of desperation) have made me want to keep the bike forever.

[Scud]

Glad you are pleased with the handling now.  The Ohlins shocks were 10mm longer than the standard Sachs.  Getting the suspension set correctly (starting with sag) transformed my Scura, although for pure handling, my ST3 surpasses it - as did your Aprilia.

[Tinus89]

Guys and girls, question time: when (re)assembling the exhaust system, the only seal/gasket in place is the one at the heads.

Aside from snugging up all connections nice and tight, do you do anything else to prevent exhaust leaks?

[docc]

Guys and girls, question time: when (re)assembling the exhaust system, the only seal/gasket in place is the one at the heads.

Aside from snugging up all connections nice and tight, do you do anything else to prevent exhaust leaks?

Taking time to tighten the system down in steps, using a "star pattern" from font to back has been helpful for me.  Never end at the heads, but at the rearmost. I use a mallet to tap about on the system as I go through this procedure while ensuring that each joint is pressed together completely.

 

Heh, yeah, more hammers, I know!

[Scud]

^ what docc said... plus a little anti-seize at the joints helps things move and settle in nicely. Smells good when the anti-sieze burns off. 

[docc]

^ what docc said... plus a little anti-seize at the joints helps things move and settle in nicely. Smells good when the anti-sieze burns off. 

What variety of "anti-sieze?"  I can see burnishing the joining surfaces (00 steel wool?), some lubricant to bring them well-together?

[JBBenson]

I use the copper stuff on anything that gets very very hot....

[Scud]

I just use the standard silver stuff on everything (including as exhaust assembly lube) - don't have any copper.

[docc]

I've seen the copper anti-seize turn super -hard in hot applications. I suppose it's okay for something not coming back apart regularly (exhaust), but I stopped using it on spark plugs.

[JBBenson]

OK, having really wrung it out today, with a bike that is now (close to) neutral handling, all through the Malibu hills, (at speeds I care not to reveal publicly), I can safely ask:

 

Who the f**ck's idea was it that a 160 rear on a Sport makes it handle better?

 

I don't know about the longer frame LeMans, but putting a 160 on a Sport is probably the worst thing you can do: it lowers the rear, it gives a weird flatter-topped profile that makes the rear "tippy", and it introduces speedometer error. It also looks too small.

 

Get rid of it! Put a 170 back on.

 

If you have handling issues, address the other issues like forks, fork springs, dropping the triples, head bearings, and shock. Don't change the size of the tires.

 

Just. Don't.

[Scud]

Glad you are stoked. I think I prefer the OEM spec 180 (vs the narrower 170) on my Scura. But like you, I am quite happy to apply steering effort.

 

Just as a technical matter... doesn't the 160 have a 60 sidewall, rather than a 55? If so, then the overall tire height is quite similar.  160x0.6=96 mm sidewall vs 170x.055=93.5mm sidewall.

[JBBenson]

Both the 170 and the 160 have a 60 sidewall.

 

On paper, the 60 designates a percentage of the width, so the difference should be negligible, but a little research on my part shows my new tires being about 1/2” taller that the old 160. I’m not sure how exact the official numbers are. I do know that the 170 looks taller and fatter for sure, filling the rear fender/hugger better than before.

 

It may be even taller, as the narrower tire needs to span the width of the rim, so it has to flatten out a bit to reach, so that may account for even more height, and the 170 makes more of a constant radius profile, which gives the linear feel that makes turning so much better now.

 

Yes, we are talking about small measurements, but think about the difference that dropping the triples 8mm makes!

[Scud]

My mistake - it's the 180 that drops to a 55 sidewall - making the 170/60 and 180/55 closer in total height to each other.