docc Posted October 8, 2018 Posted October 8, 2018 I'm due to repaint mine (again). The zinc chromate was fun, but I'm thinking satin back to obscure the silhouette effect of the horns and oil cooler. BTW, what is the little "tongue" extension that sticks down below the cover? (I think I'll leave it silver since it gets blasted the most.)
plexiform Posted November 5, 2018 Posted November 5, 2018 Feeling like a wuss for taking the bike to a shop to get routine stuff done but I had been dragging my feet on several issues for a while now because I just haven't had the time to address them and in some cases the know how to fix the problem. So I bit the bullet and took it to a local shop (Chrismoto in San Luis Obispo) to get things done. I will say though the bike is running better than ever before. 1. Roper plate installed 2. Oil change 3. Valves adjusted 4. Throttle bodies synchronized - apparently they were way out of sync 5. Gaskets replaced in oil pan and cylinder head covers 6. Trans oil changed 7. Suspension adjusted. This was actually the problem that led me to seek help in the first place. The bike had been very hard to handle at low speeds. Felt like I was riding a grizzly bear (no i have not actually ridden one before but I imagine riding a grizzly bear would feel like riding a V11 with suspension issues). Anyway, at highway speeds it was rock solid and felt perfect. I spent many days adjusting the forks and rear suspension thinking something was just not set right. At one point I played around with the steering damper as well but never thought it made much of a difference for this problem. The shop returned fork and rear suspension to spec but said the real culprit was steering damper set way too stiff to the point where the fork and rear shock were doing their job but with such stiff steering damper the quick changes in suspension were out of sync with the steering and just made for a very uncomfortable ride. I can't say I fully understand the problem but It feels much better now with much less steering dampening. However I can't say it is perfect yet. When I compare the ride to my other bikes, I feel like the BMW and Norton are much better handling bikes. So I suspect there is still room for improvements.
Chuck Posted November 5, 2018 Posted November 5, 2018 After much tinkering (Yee Haw) in the SoCal canyons this is the recipe that works for me and my dainty 190 lbs. First, the Scura was undersprung from the factory. That needs to be addressed to get the "sag" right. That is number 1. Then.. from maintenance records: set front shock compression +3 from full soft, rebound+6 from full soft. Rear suspension Rebound 24 clicks from full soft, compression 12 clicks from full soft. On smooth roads, totally back off the steering damper. 1
plexiform Posted November 5, 2018 Posted November 5, 2018 After much tinkering (Yee Haw) in the SoCal canyons this is the recipe that works for me and my dainty 190 lbs. First, the Scura was undersprung from the factory. That needs to be addressed to get the "sag" right. That is number 1. Then.. from maintenance records: set front shock compression +3 from full soft, rebound+6 from full soft. Rear suspension Rebound 24 clicks from full soft, compression 12 clicks from full soft. On smooth roads, totally back off the steering damper. I backed completely off steering damper for the commute home this morning and it is better. Thanks!
docc Posted November 6, 2018 Posted November 6, 2018 Installed the Das Mototec foot brake lever today. Not sure when I'll get to ride it, but it is a beautiful piece! 2
al_roethlisberger Posted November 6, 2018 Posted November 6, 2018 Installed the Das Mototec foot brake lever today. Not sure when I'll get to ride it, but it is a beautiful piece! Nice looking Did you break your OEM lever, or is there some advantage to this one, or just like the look better?
docc Posted November 6, 2018 Posted November 6, 2018 I decided to archive my original lever as they are ridiculously brittle. This one from Germany, has a nice design, and should be very robust.
docc Posted November 14, 2018 Posted November 14, 2018 Fitted a new (cheap) timepiece to the Sport. I learned this from my cherished riding bud, Bruce Heath RIP: get a cheap wristwatch that matches your instruments, take off the band tabs and affix it to the triple tree. Maybe next time, I'll spring for a better watch . . . 5
Tinus89 Posted November 18, 2018 Posted November 18, 2018 Took her for a 260km ride today. COLD in the shed. Cranked over very slow *hunk hunk hunk hunk oh-oh .... hunk .... brrraaahw!* Pfew. Slick as hell in the morning, almost lost her when the front wheel went left and the rear decided to try and pass.... But boy, does that girl pull like a f*cking freight train at 2degC outside! Broke my indicator button. Does not want to move left anymore, and barely right. There seems to be some kind of blockage in the switch. Anyone ever had this issue (and solved it)? 3
gstallons Posted November 18, 2018 Posted November 18, 2018 I took my 2nd 5 yr. ride yesterday . Pushed $hit out of the way for 1 hr , a shot of air in the rear tire and grunt , click click click . 15 mins on the charger and the first cylinder to TDC it fired up . Got some gear on and left . After 20 mi. I met a buddy at the end of my road. He needed four 3/4'' flat washers . Then I got a text informing me the side boom rotary mower I had been working on was not functioning properly . Freedom while it lasted ! 1
docc Posted November 18, 2018 Posted November 18, 2018 @Tinus89 - I have had luck cleaning the switch with CRG Electronics Cleaner and treating with Caig DeOxit to restore the movement of the turn indicator switch. @gstallons - So . . . she lives !!!
al_roethlisberger Posted November 19, 2018 Posted November 19, 2018 ....today? I bumped into it again (a daily occurrence) in the garage while replacing the "accumulator ball" on the ABS for the XJ12 Other than that, the Le Mans is "on the list" to get to after some other car and house repairs.
Tinus89 Posted November 22, 2018 Posted November 22, 2018 Broke my indicator button. Does not want to move left anymore, and barely right. There seems to be some kind of blockage in the switch. Anyone ever had this issue (and solved it)? @Tinus89 - I have had luck cleaning the switch with CRG Electronics Cleaner and treating with Caig DeOxit to restore the movement of the turn indicator switch. Cleaned my switch yesterday, all good again! 2
gstallons Posted November 23, 2018 Posted November 23, 2018 A #2 pencil eraser is good preparation .... Believe it or not acetone is a good contact cleaner . I watched a YouTube video where this guy was cleaning the contacts inside Fluke meters to stop ghosting and poor display . I fixed two this way . saved lot$ and they still work . 1
stewgnu Posted January 9, 2019 Posted January 9, 2019 Broke my indicator button. Does not want to move left anymore, and barely right. There seems to be some kind of blockage in the switch. Anyone ever had this issue (and solved it)? @Tinus89 - I have had luck cleaning the switch with CRG Electronics Cleaner and treating with Caig DeOxit to restore the movement of the turn indicator switch. Cleaned my switch yesterday, all good again! Ace. Take it apart and put it back together again. Works a surprising amount of times!
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