What did you do to your V11 today?

[Lucky Phil]

1 hour ago, hammershaug said:

Today I removed the tank and did some fuel line inspection. More work to do... Fuel level sensor wiring was broken. (Now I know why I ran out of gas in the wilderness 7 months ago...) Breather hose and fuel hoses was worn.

 

 

This is very embarrassing; I mixed/f*cked up and tried to close the «strange petcock» on the right side. Yes, I tried to close the regulator. After 15 turns I gave up and took off the hose. Nice and dry. Over to the other side. Removed the hose. Fuel! A lot of fuel. I was prepared for it and had a fuel hose and an empty petrol can beside me. I just drained the tank empty from the hose.

A greenie and his Greenie. That’s me folks!

I’m thinking about replacing the petcock. Any proven ones? Or just let it be and use pliers?

One more thing. There’s angels among us. Two thumbs up for a very helpful gentleman aka [mention]Tomchri[/mention] 

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Thats an electric petcock thats been messed with. It should have 2 wires going to it and be shut with power off. Looks like someone has modified it to stay open all the time. There is a nicely designed and poorly executed manual screw tap that most people seem to use in place of the electronic one. It was OEM on later V11's but the ones available now are a copy and use seals that dont tolerate fuel very well the upshot of which means that you need to use pliers to turn them after they've been fitted for a while. I'm working on a fix but I'm fully engaged researching EFI stuff at present.

Ciao  

[hammershaug]

11 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

Thats an electric petcock thats been messed with. It should have 2 wires going to it and be shut with power off. Looks like someone has modified it to stay open all the time. There is a nicely designed and poorly executed manual screw tap that most people seem to use in place of the electronic one. It was OEM on later V11's but the ones available now are a copy and use seals that dont tolerate fuel very well the upshot of which means that you need to use pliers to turn them after they've been fitted for a while. I'm working on a fix but I'm fully engaged researching EFI stuff at present.

Ciao  

Thanks, Phil. My suspicion is confirmed. I thought it looked like two soldering points at the bottom of the petcock, but ... electric petcock on a 2000 V11? Wasn't that introduced the year after?

Keep up with your EFI research.

[Lucky Phil]

16 minutes ago, hammershaug said:

Thanks, Phil. My suspicion is confirmed. I thought it looked like two soldering points at the bottom of the petcock, but ... electric petcock on a 2000 V11? Wasn't that introduced the year after?

Keep up with your EFI research.

Nope. Yours actually has the series 2 60 degree outlet tap as opposed to the earlier 90 degree outlet tap.

Here's the manual version that we all seem to use but like I said it has its issues. 

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=379&products_id=39

Ciao

[docc]

11 minutes ago, hammershaug said:

 ... electric petcock on a 2000 V11? Wasn't that introduced the year after?

 

The "electric cock" (really, that is the English translation) was fitted to the 1999-2001 early V11, perhaps into 2002 (?) 

One of those things that gave problems and got changed back to the previously used manual cock (er, that's the one I've always thought most reliable anyway . . . ) somewhere 2002 -2003 (who knows?).

[Lucky Phil]

2 minutes ago, docc said:

The "electric cock" (really, that is the English translation) was fitted to the 1999-2001 early V11, perhaps into 2002 (?) 

One of those things that gave problems and got changed back to the previously used manual cock (er, that's the one I've always thought most reliable anyway . . . ) somewhere 2002 -2003 (who knows?).

I think the original manual taps were probably good docc its I suspect the new non oem versions that have the swelling seals. You can easily tell the difference as the outlet on the OEM is orientated on the flat of the hexagonal body and the aftermarket is on the point of the body hex.

Ciao 

[hammershaug]

8 minutes ago, docc said:

The "electric cock" (really, that is the English translation)

I prefer to have a manual cock:)

[docc]

2 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

I think the original manual taps were probably good docc its I suspect the new non oem versions that have the swelling seals. You can easily tell the difference as the outlet on the OEM is orientated on the flat of the hexagonal body and the aftermarket is on the point of the body hex.

Ciao 

Well, my flat-outlet OEM (replacement that was sent to me from TXRedneck/RIP) still needs pliers to get entirely closed . . . .

 

[Lucky Phil]

1 minute ago, docc said:

Well, my flat-outlet OEM (replacement that was sent to me from TXRedneck/RIP) still needs pliers to get entirely closed . . . .

 

Oh ok docc, my suspicions were wrong then. I have a bunch of FKM ( viton) seals now of various sizes to try its just my original tap that decided to start leaking when I refitted it has a cracked housing. ( the screw body of the housing is around .85 mm wall thickness so dont be too brutal with them) I currently have my slightly reworked spare fitted, the one that failed to shutoff a few years ago and created a big mess. Trying to decide weather of not to order a new tap and mod the body to take my reworked plunger with the new seals. When you consider exchange rates, shipping, GST and original costs its probably a $120au part that I'm going to pull to bits and it would take forever to get at the moment. I'll save it for a bigger parts order in the future I think and just hope the tap on it now closes when I pull the tank.

Ciao    

[Tomchri]

Not much of a Christmas guy, but coud'nt help it. Weather picking up,, and will get license plates thursday. Had them both tuned today Meinolf 's way. Curious yes. Will report.
IPA time.
Cheers Tom

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[NicoNZ]

Fairly new member here. Joined a while ago but have never taken the time to look around and I am not sure I should have! I have a cafe sport that is up on the lift for a bit of maintenance. Bought it a year ago with 60k km. Now at 64. After navigating my way around here the list of required work is getting longer. So what did I do today? I drained the differential oil in preparation for removal so I can correct the drive shaft phasing and correctly grease the U joints. After reading the recent posts on this thread on clutch wear I am considering pulling the transmission to inspect mine. It has a fairly loud clatter which I am sure is the clutch when it is disengaged (clutch lever out). Makes me think something is loose in there that shouldn't be. 

Maybe I should have started a new thread as i managed to get a bit off topic.

Youtube Link 

 

 

Could be a long maintenance job list.

Ciao

Nick

[docc]

May I say that the downfall of this "thread" is that there is no "topic." 

So, NicoNZ ( and others), please feel free(er) to start your own thread/topic about your individual build and learning experiences. 

Specific topic titles are easier to search for others later.  For example, "Clutch Chatter" is a better topic title than something like, "WTF?"

FWIW, I don't hear anything "bad" in that brief video. Maybe some wee exhaust leaks? (Those will totally mess up a V11 . . .)

[Gmc28]

Keeping in mind docs words about this topic, but also not wanting to start a thread for such a small thing..... and, its something “I did today”, or “was gonna did”....

went out to put the nifty little MG logo on the front of the freshly powder coated stator cover, and only then realized the logo piece is flat but the custom sized rectangle area where it mounts there in the center is curved.  Is there a special, different logo for that spot, or do folks have some way to properly attach the flat logo to that slightly curved surface?  My logo piece came with some spongy backing tape, which is probably garbage...

[Kane]

Nico, my clutch makes the same loud rattle when pulling in the lever / disengaged. It goes away and becomes quiet immediately when releasing the lever / engaged. This is normal for the Guzzi dry clutch, no?  Does the rattle persist on yours after the clutch is engaged?

[hammershaug]

16 hours ago, docc said:

May I say that the downfall of this "thread" is that there is no "topic." 

So, NicoNZ ( and others), please feel free(er) to start your own thread/topic about your individual build and learning experiences. 

Specific topic titles are easier to search for others later.  For example, "Clutch Chatter" is a better topic title than something like, "WTF?"

FWIW, I don't hear anything "bad" in that brief video. Maybe some wee exhaust leaks? (Those will totally mess up a V11 . . .)

I feel like I'm one of the sinners, but I fully agree on the criticism @docc. This is sort of a catch-all thread - full of bits and pieces. I will continue to post, but FYI I've just started my own thread regarding maintenance of my Greenie.  Welcome anytime   

[hammershaug]

16 minutes ago, Kane said:

Nico, my clutch makes the same loud rattle when pulling in the lever / disengaged. It goes away and becomes quiet immediately when releasing the lever / engaged. This is normal for the Guzzi dry clutch, no?  Does the rattle persist on yours after the clutch is engaged?

I think so. I'm no expert, but I think this is pretty common behavior.