Scud Posted May 1, 2017 Posted May 1, 2017 So I got a little carried away last night. Pulled all the bodywork and ran the charging cable and heated grip wiring from the front to the back... Still don't know where to pull the power for the grips but it's hopefully from the tail! I'm enjoying your enthusiasm. So... why do you need the power to heated grips to be switched? I pulled a set of Oxford grips off a different bike and they were wired to directly to the battery. Why not tap into the charging/accessory cable that you've already run to the front? If you want it switched, you could install a relay at the connection - you'd just need to find a switched source to trigger the relay. While you're wiring, it's a good precaution to add a supplemental ground to your voltage regulator. I split the ground wire of the battery tender cable and grounded it to the frame, then ran a supplemental ground to the regulator. Now the regulator has a direct ground to the battery that is outside the main wire harness. Some harnesses have melted from the standard ground wire overheating.
Zorro Posted May 1, 2017 Posted May 1, 2017 I have the latest generation Oxford grips on my V11 Sport and have had them on other bikes as well. Great product, no issues. Nice to have them " On hand" when needed. Cheers
swooshdave Posted May 1, 2017 Posted May 1, 2017 Because you can forget to turn off the grips and have a dead battery? These grips are nice because they remember your last setting when you turn off the bike. I didn't add the ground to the regulator this time. But now I know what it takes to pull the tank and will do it next time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Chuck Posted May 1, 2017 Posted May 1, 2017 Because you can forget to turn off the grips and have a dead battery? These grips are nice because they remember your last setting when you turn off the bike. I didn't add the ground to the regulator this time. But now I know what it takes to pull the tank and will do it next time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk You don't need to pull the tank.. but you *do* need that ground wire. You'll be sorry if you let that 10 minute job slide. 2
swooshdave Posted May 1, 2017 Posted May 1, 2017 I have the latest generation Oxford grips on my V11 Sport and have had them on other bikes as well. Great product, no issues. Nice to have them " On hand" when needed. Cheers Where did you pull the power for the grips from?
swooshdave Posted May 1, 2017 Posted May 1, 2017 Because you can forget to turn off the grips and have a dead battery? These grips are nice because they remember your last setting when you turn off the bike. I didn't add the ground to the regulator this time. But now I know what it takes to pull the tank and will do it next time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk You don't need to pull the tank.. but you *do* need that ground wire. You'll be sorry if you let that 10 minute job slide. Does someone have a clearer picture of the regulator and how they ran the ground? It's tough to tell from Scud's photo.
czakky Posted May 1, 2017 Posted May 1, 2017 You just run a wire from the regulator case to a timing cover bolt. Bam! You're done! Even I can handle it. You can get fancy with a star washer or anything else but a good clean connection is all you need. 1
docc Posted May 1, 2017 Posted May 1, 2017 Trigger a relay in stowed in your headlight bucket from the hot to the low-wattage "city light" bulb. Then it all goes cold with the ignition switch and involves no other relays in the existing harness. Pics of the regulator grounding (IMPORTANT!!) in this "30 amp fuse failure" thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19672&p=215684
swooshdave Posted May 2, 2017 Posted May 2, 2017 Isn't the city light wire cold unless it's in park? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Scud Posted May 2, 2017 Posted May 2, 2017 Park? Did you get one with an automatic transmission? I think that light is on all the time. I think you could also activate the relay by tapping into the dash lights. 1
docc Posted May 2, 2017 Posted May 2, 2017 Isn't the city light wire cold unless it's in park? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk The "city light" comes on with the ignition switch through the 5 amp Fuse#6, no relay. That circuit comes on in both the *on* position and the *park* position of the Ignition Switch. It turns on the 4watt bulb in the headlamp, tail lamp, tag lamp, and instrument illumination. Park? Did you get one with an automatic transmission? I think that light is on all the time. I think you could also activate the relay by tapping into the dash lights. The term "dash lights" refers to the instrument illumination? Those are on the Fuse#6 with tail light/tag light/ *city* light. Easiest way to tap into that would be the *city* light in the bucket. Otherwise, "dash lights" could refer to the "warning lights" (aka *idiot lights*), but those are on Relay #2/ Fuse#5 and I would not use that circuit to power anything more.
swooshdave Posted May 2, 2017 Posted May 2, 2017 I've already ran the wires back to the fuse panel area so I'll tap in there. More later! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Scud Posted May 2, 2017 Posted May 2, 2017 Yes, I probably should have said instrument lights, that's what I was thinking. I would like to understand relays a little better. Isn't the power required to activate the relay almost insignificant? Doesn't the low current throw the switch - then the high current goes through the connection? So therefore, when you think of fuses, it's only in relation to high current, which in this case powers the heated grips. The power for the grips would not come through the instrument light or the city light.
swooshdave Posted May 2, 2017 Posted May 2, 2017 When I had the headlight open the city light didn't come on. I need to recheck that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
swooshdave Posted May 2, 2017 Posted May 2, 2017 Ugh. I thought I was being cute. Remember the two wires by the ODBII connector? That don't do anything? Well, one is a ground and the other I don't know. So I used the ground one for the grips. Heck, it was handy. Ignition on = Grips on. Bike running = Grips off. WTF? Turns out that mystery ground? Ungrounds when bike is running. Again... WTF. So I grounded to the ECU body and all is good, heated grips. Power is tapped from #6 fuse. Positaps are perfect for this. Oh, did I mention I had to pull the inner fender off because the fuse panel screws were stuck? Yeah, that was fun. Still cool here tomorrow but dammit if I don't have heated grips! Back to the DMV tomorrow. Maybe third time and I'll get the title...
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