Looking at a 2000 V11 Sport

[Antiquar]

No no. That was pretty easy to reseat. I mean the robber grommet that fits around the alternator cable bundle and slots into the hole at the top of the alternator cover.

[docc]

No no. That was pretty easy to reseat. I mean the robber grommet that fits around the alternator cable bundle and slots into the hole at the top of the alternator cover.

Oh, yes! That  . . . I have a name for that, but it involves multiples of *sailor language* . . .

 

Horrible little grommet.

 

And do not neglect to groom the side stand switch wire well away from the exhaust and other harm. It is what the Run Switch lives on while we are under way . . .

[footgoose]

"And do not neglect to groom the side stand switch wire well away from the exhaust and other harm. It is what the Run Switch lives on while we are under way . . ."

 

 

 

To that I can attest!  While running at speed, said loose wire contacts head pipe, melts insulation, pops fuse. And 3 days work to find it. not fun.

[Antiquar]

Yikes. How are you folks securing your side-stand switch wires? I'd like to fasten it to run along the alternator but not sure of a clean way. 

[Scud]

There's room for it to run between the alternator cover screws and the plastic ring. A zip-tie or two may also be helpful. I've not had a problem, but it seems that it's vulnerable if not secured. If it fails, you can just twist the two wires together. I read that some people have bypassed the switch permanently (it was bypassed by a PO of my LeMans). I think the switch provides a worthwhile safety margin and is worth keeping (or reinstalling in my case).

[Antiquar]

Ah, passing it behind that upper left hand alternator cover screw makes sense. It probably was that way and I neglected to reinstall it in that position.

 

I'm a believer in these minor safety switches. Mistakes happen and if a side-stand switch can prevent a mishap then it is worth keeping.

[Antiquar]

To gratuitously continue this thread:

 

I did a little more work on the bike today.

 

• Quickly fixed the routing of that side-stand switch cable.
• Changed engine oil and filter. The old stuff was pretty dirty, but there were no visible metal bits. The old filter came out easily and I installed a new OEM unit. I found the oil filter access door a bit tricky to reinstall--it really wanted to go on cross-threaded. But eventually it went on straight and I filled the bike with the prescribed amount of Castrol 20W50.
• Changed the gearbox oil. The old stuff was very clean and there was an acceptable amount of metal fluff on the drain magnet. I filled it with Redline HD Shockproof.
• Changed the bevelbox oil. The old stuff was a little dirtier than the gearbox, but not alarmingly so. Refilled with Redline HD Shockproof until it began to dribble out the level plug.
• Installed new sparkplugs, properly gapped. The old ones were gapped a bit too wide. They looked good, though.

 

A couple thoughts: the Redline gear oil makes an appreciable difference. It shifts very nicely. The new engine oil quieted the engine noticeably--either the old oil was not the proper weight or it was very used. I received my TPS breakout harness in the post today so tomorrow I will be doing a TB sync.

[docc]

It's so great to be sharing you experience!  Thanks for continuing the thread!

 

Since the TPS setting and the Throttle Body synchronization are separate settings, I'm curious what you are using for the synch (Hg sticks, manometer, "TwinMax")?

 

Plan on the cables to use "guzzidiag" and set your CO Fuel Trim.

[Antiquar]

It's so great to be sharing you experience!  Thanks for continuing the thread!

 

Since the TPS setting and the Throttle Body synchronization are separate settings, I'm curious what you are using for the synch (Hg sticks, manometer, "TwinMax")?

 

Plan on the cables to use "guzzidiag" and set your CO Fuel Trim.

I'm glad you're enjoying it. Half the fun of a "new" bike is learning its foibles and I'm happy to share that.

 

I've got a TwinMax from wrenching on my old BMW. It's quite a handy gadget. The current state of the bike's tune seems decent, so I'm hoping to just dial it in.

[docc]

Perfect! Nothing like a valve adjustment/fresh plugs and a synch!

[JBBenson]

 

I'm glad you're enjoying it. Half the fun of a "new" bike is learning its foibles and I'm happy to share that.

 

 

 

The fun never ends!

[Antiquar]

So I didn't get a chance to tune on account of my dead multimeter, but I decided to lift up the tank. And wow, this PO guy did some questionable things under there.

 

My favorite thing upon lifting the fuel tank was finding these two ports linked with a short length of fuel line. Clearly, the fuel vapor recovery system was left on the side of the road some time ago. I'm supposing these are the overflow and vent lines and should *not* be linked in this way.

 

 

And here we find his airbox modifications. Looks like he took a hacksaw to the airbox intakes.

 

While the tank was lifted I tightened some loose fuel clamps. Looks like there is some work to do here.

[czakky]

That air box is at least 12 more hp!

[docc]

The vent and overflow can be routed into the same drain, but probably best to take that to atmosphere somewhere below the engine. Factory routing was between the starter and gearbox, then zip-tied to the oil return elbow on the back of the sump.

 

I've seen more dubious airbox mods . . . . including my own.   (Which I absolutely love )

[Antiquar]

Alright folks I'll leave the airbox alone . The air filter is relatively clean. It seems like a K&N unit, I'm not sure which but I'll have to buy some oil for it.

 

Does anyone happen to know the size of the fuel lines, both drain and pressure lines? I should have measured when the tank was off but I neglected to do so. I'll feel much better when I get a drain line fitted and replace the filter.

 

And of course perform the rest of the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist.