Kiwi_Roy Posted March 25, 2016 Author Posted March 25, 2016 A 2 Watt resistor will do 82 Ohms is a preferred value (readily available). I just used one of the old lamps in parallel with the LED, keeps things in balance like before. Incandescent bulbs are like magic resistors Low resistance when cold High resistance when hot the exact opposite of the fuel sensor, they work perfect together
knumbnutz Posted April 11, 2016 Posted April 11, 2016 whats the dash look like now with the new guages ? please post a pic. Anyone know where to get the plastic cover for the idiot lights ?
footgoose Posted April 11, 2016 Posted April 11, 2016 whats the dash look like now with the new guages ? please post a pic. Anyone know where to get the plastic cover for the idiot lights ? I got that piece and the rest of the dash pieces at Harpers MG. Just use the fiche on their site. Or call them. They're good people. 1
knumbnutz Posted April 12, 2016 Posted April 12, 2016 $164 for the plastic top, which is over $220 AUD.... not happening. I would machine it from billet before paying that. I got the whole back plate for $30 for Teo
footgoose Posted April 12, 2016 Posted April 12, 2016 I assumed you meant the clear plastic cover for the idiot lights. $8
swooshdave Posted April 18, 2017 Posted April 18, 2017 There are only three lights I want brighter; neutral, turn signal and fuel. I don't want the high beam light too bright as it will be one mostly at night anyways. But the turn signal bulb should be nice and bright. I obviously found out pretty quick that taking the front cover off was useless except to clean the light cover! It sounds like to replace the fuel light you can either leave the original bulb in series or put in a resistor (2 watt and 82 ohms?). Is that correct? I replace the bulbs on my 850T and blew some fuses until I clipped the contact wires...
sp838 Posted April 18, 2017 Posted April 18, 2017 The bulb in parallel trick works, I did that following Kiwi Roy's advice. I worry about its longevity though. These bulbs can burn out eventually. Wouldn't the resistor last longer?
swooshdave Posted April 18, 2017 Posted April 18, 2017 The bulb in parallel trick works, I did that following Kiwi Roy's advice. I worry about its longevity though. These bulbs can burn out eventually. Wouldn't the resistor last longer? Usually.
Kiwi_Roy Posted April 18, 2017 Author Posted April 18, 2017 The fuel light should last an awful long time, incandescents normally blow at the instant of turn on when the filament is cold and the inrush current is high. The fuel light turns on slowly and never sees full Voltage. If you don't want the high beam light too bright put a large value resistor in series like 50k The direction indicator idiot is another special case, Because LEDs are polarity sensitive you need to use a couple of diodes or I prefer the www.SuperbrightLEDs.com type 194 single LED wedge base because they have diodes built in and they also have a nice flange that makes them easy to glue in place. Use the lamp same colour as the bezel. Check out the lamps in their motorcycle section, I bought some nice driving lights. Don't use the lamp sockets T3 25S-SP though, they lose contract with the lamp with any strain at all on the wires, just solder the wires directly to the lamp, they will outlast you.
swooshdave Posted April 18, 2017 Posted April 18, 2017 The direction indicator idiot is another special case, Because LEDs are polarity sensitive you need to use a couple of diodes or I prefer the www.SuperbrightLEDs.com type 194 single LED wedge base because they have diodes built in and they also have a nice flange that makes them easy to glue in place. Use the lamp same colour as the bezel. https://www.superbrightleds.com/search/led-products/194/ Which ones have the diodes? I can't seem to find it mentioned in the descriptions. Or can you pick any that are Polarity Sensitive = No?
Kiwi_Roy Posted April 19, 2017 Author Posted April 19, 2017 https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-1-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/197/ Click on the specifications tab you will see there Operating Voltage 12 VAC/9~14.5 VDC they have a bridge rectifier in the base, you can see the diodes in the 360 degree view. The nice thing is you don't even have to think about getting the polarity right. I usually carry one with a few feet of wire on for troubleshooting instead of taking a multimeter. Update - Yes pick any that say Polarity Sensitive = No
not-fishing Posted June 1, 2017 Posted June 1, 2017 Well I've done SuperbrightLED's conversion but I have to go back and wire in the incandescent fuel bulb in parallel. socket is coming from Superbright One other problem I'm having is the green neutral glows at the start of a shift into/out of neutral but doesn't stay on while in neutral. Does that sound like another "load" problem (meaning I solder in another original incandescent bulb or just go back to the incandescent)?
Kiwi_Roy Posted June 1, 2017 Author Posted June 1, 2017 No, it sounds like the switch in the gearbox down by the starter, a brass strip that touches a bump on the shift drum. Try shorting the bolt on the gearbox to chassis (ground), should make the neutral light turn On
Niels Knudsen Posted October 8, 2017 Posted October 8, 2017 Hi everybody. Followed the advice and guidance of KIWI ROY replacing idiot-lamps. I hope you can see the photos and result on my Moto Guzzi Centauro on this link. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jke7k3ifc2guhj3/AABfWmVj_bthR1oSPV-sjbq7a?dl=0 Greetings from DK Niels Knudsen. 1
footgoose Posted October 8, 2017 Posted October 8, 2017 Thanks Niels. Nice job and great photos. Where did you source the lights and sockets?
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