Niels Knudsen Posted October 9, 2017 Posted October 9, 2017 Hi footgoose. Thank you. Leds are from Superbrigthleds.com, 5 leds 27,45 $. T10 Sockets from DK carpartsuplier: http://www.thansen.dk/product.asp?n=-295444903&pn=-295427429, 5 sockets 149,75 DKR = 23,62 $ collected. Resistor 82 ohm 5 watt from conrad.dk. 1,12 $. Greetings from The Country of The Vikings. Niels Knudsen.
Kiwi_Roy Posted October 9, 2017 Author Posted October 9, 2017 Are you using the 82 Ohm resistor for the fuel level. - I have been using one of the old lamps for that. I like type 194 LED because they are 12V AC (not polarity sensitive), makes it easy for the blinker where the polarity changes with direction. These lamps have a flange that makes them easy to glue into the fitting. I don't believe you need a socket with LEDs it just adds to the complication. If you find one of the lamps too bright add s 47k resistor in series, you might have to go even higher.
Niels Knudsen Posted October 9, 2017 Posted October 9, 2017 Hello Maestro Kiwi. Yes The 82 ohm parallel to The fuel-led dies The job. I choose The T10 socket because I Can then go back to incandecent bulb socket T10. THX for The origin guidelines. Regards Niels Knudsen. 1
Scud Posted October 13, 2017 Posted October 13, 2017 I never understood why people were concerned that the lights weren't bright enough, till I got my 2000 Sport. The color part on the 2000 is a flat sheet of plastic with small line-drawings that allow light through the black. The 2002 lights have the same pattern as the 2000, but the colored part is textured like a tail-light lens and is much brighter. In 2003, the light pattern is different, so only the 2002 part will work on the red-frame bikes. So... I just swapped the part out and my lights are now super-bright. Just went for a night-time beer run. The lights are so bright, that I might even spray some lens tint over the high beam indicator.
Kiwi_Roy Posted October 13, 2017 Author Posted October 13, 2017 In spite of what we said earlier you can successfully dim the LED with just a resistor you just need to make it a lot higher value than you might think. For example I use 100 kOhm for one running on 24 VDC to make it appear about half brightness, thats 24/100,000 = 0.24 milliamps as opposed to spout 10 mA for normal. The equivalent for 12 Volts would be a 47or 57 kOhm. Another way would be to use full Voltage during the daylight hours and much less at night, this could easily be done with a Voltage divider, of corse it needs some way of differentiating from night and day a photo resistor or just a switch perhaps. Only a couple of the LEDs like full beam and direction indicators need to be dimmed, the alarms like fuel level and oil pressure should be left at full brightness. I must say I much prefer the one on the left
docc Posted October 13, 2017 Posted October 13, 2017 Is there a separate part number for that jeweled indicator card?
Scud Posted October 13, 2017 Posted October 13, 2017 I took the lens from the stash leftover from my 2002 parts bike. But Harper's show part #02781101 available for $8.00. My 2002 Scura has the same "jeweled" part and I got used to them. When I got the Greenie, the lights seemed dim by comparison (especially in sunlight). Now they are the same.
coreytrevor Posted October 13, 2017 Posted October 13, 2017 Is there a separate part number for that jeweled indicator card? Is this it? https://www.harpermoto.com/33-gasket-en.html
footgoose Posted October 13, 2017 Posted October 13, 2017 Is there a separate part number for that jeweled indicator card? Is this it? https://www.harpermoto.com/33-gasket-en.html This one has a different color arrangement than my '02 and Scuds photo. ours is the 02781101 in his link. I also have a spare with the same number. The 037811 is, I think for a later bike.
LowRyter Posted October 13, 2017 Posted October 13, 2017 Is there a separate part number for that jeweled indicator card? Is this it? https://www.harpermoto.com/33-gasket-en.html that one doesn't match my EV for my Sport. Mine has a single signal indicator at the very top while this one has separate left and right.
docc Posted October 13, 2017 Posted October 13, 2017 Yeah, the separate left and right signal indicators is for the later V11 (2003-2005) and eliminates the battery warning. Footgoose showed me this change from the early Sports at the South'n Spine Raid. I've been meaning to get one ever since. [edit: the early Sport panel is 0271100]
docc Posted October 17, 2017 Posted October 17, 2017 Freakin' awesome. I have my replacement "jeweled" panel! I mean just a couple days. Like twelve bucks US. Harper's rocks! This forum rocks! You guys rock! 1
docc Posted October 17, 2017 Posted October 17, 2017 I want to see it! Scud has great comparison images in Post#34. Here's the easy way out for me: The challenge is going to be capturing images in the broad daylight from the angle looking down through the faceshield. That's when my (early Sport) lights become marginal. 1
Kiwi_Roy Posted October 18, 2017 Author Posted October 18, 2017 Hello Maestro Kiwi. Yes The 82 ohm parallel to The fuel-led dies The job. I choose The T10 socket because I Can then go back to incandecent bulb socket T10. THX for The origin guidelines. Regards Niels Knudsen. Thanks for that, I thought about using a resistor but what value? The incandescent starts out much less than 82 Ohms when its cold but ends up about 120 when hot, it sort of complements the thermistor that has the opposite characteristic. I suspect if you were to set yours up beside the OEM it would react a bit slower at first with less current to heat the thermistor initially but it will end up hotter. with a brighter lamp. You seem to have lucked into the right combination, the main thing it works
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