V11 Sport performance mods ?

[gelos]

Twin spark head, is important only if you plan more compresion ratio.

I forgot, my flywheel is about 500 gramm lighter, I think is more possible, I am too careful.

[motoguzznix]

Hi knumbnutz

 

Here is my advice:

 

11:1 is too much CR for a V11 engine, even with twin spark ignition. Don't bother with those pistons. The stock ones are strong items. Raise the pistons in the bores by milling the cylinders on bottom gasket surface. They should be flat with the head gasket surface. Squish is then given by the head gasket thickness - get the stock ones with 1,2 mm. After market gaskets can measure 1,5 - 1,7 mm which cost CR!

 

You can mill the head for more CR, but don't go above 10:1 with single spark ignition. 

 

Your stock V11 flywheel is already as light as your lightened Mille GTs was. Small gains are still available by machining it. 

 

Stucchi crossover is fine, small gains are avilable. Mistral crossover is a disaster and costs a lot of HP at top above 6000rpm. Mistral cans do not cost HP but gains were not noticed when I measured it on the dyno. 

 

The camshaft is good, just check timing - best ist slightly advanced at 104/108° inlet/exhaust max lobe. My own V11 was retarded.

 

The heads should undergo a service. The valves wear out at the shafts very early - go for better ones and replace the guides at the same time if necessary. 

 

Big gains are available from remapping the ECU. Fuel and ignition maps need rework. When you do your own Lambda measurements, it can all be done by yourself. Gelos went that route with very good success. Just use Tunerpro and Guzzidiag which are avialable for free / a donation. 

 

This was a quick guide with low budget mods if done by yourself. There is no expansive aftermarket hardware necessary to make the V11 go faster. Enjoy it!

[Camn]

don't go above 10:1 with single spark ignition

A twin spark head done by HTMoto in Germany. Don't know how much higher the CR is, but this is the thing to do if you want to change the cahracter of a V11 to a more hurried one (specially at 5000-8000 rpm).

[al_roethlisberger]

Mike Rich did my dual plug conversion, ported the heads, added high comp pistons, new valve guides, etc and Teo Lamers reprogrammed the ECU for the timing.  I can't really comment on how much it helped as too many other things were changing at the same time, it was 10+ years ago and I've never ridden another stock V11     But it didn't cause any detonation or other issues with reliability or smooth running.  

 

That being said, I still do have the occasional 3-4k stumble after everything is good and warmed up, so I'll be putting some time into ferreting out that problem even if it sacrifices some top end performance (or not).  I may look at refitting the stock airbox even though I do like the pods aesthetic.

 

 

 

But to the OP question, it really is a matter of personal taste, goals and available resources (time, money & patience).  And just like any similar endeavor one soon realizes a trend of decreasing returns for increasing cost. When I did all my original mods, I was a single guy with lots of disposable income, so if I were doing this again today (now with family= much less disposable income), I'd probably opt for some simpler modifications that focused more on addressing reliability, economy and suspension opportunities versus power.

 

There is a wealth of info here, but there isn't any (AFAIK) succinct formulas say for "stage 1", "stage 2" etc well tested performance combinations documented all in one place that essentially could be thought of as "kits" (parts & ECU/PCIII maps) with clearly defined results.  With that in mind, given the years of tinkering recorded here and other places like Wildguzzi perhaps there ought to be 2, 3 or 4 well tested combinations (each more complex/costly than the previous, again "stage 1", "stage 2", etc) we could put in the FAQ section with references to the most commonly available parts, install guides, ECU/PCIII maps, estimated cost, HP/torque/reliability/caveats, etc ...   I think after all these years we probably do have a lot of that information scattered throughout the forum.

[knumbnutz]

Hi Al, that what I thought might have existed. Especially since the factory offered Stage 1,2,3 kits on the Daytonas for example.. anyway, not to worry. I think the ECU is the first thing  and then search suspension stuff once I have sorted the bad bits out on the bike.. 

Like, tyres, wheel bearing, disk pads, seat and foam, grips, mirrors, rusty bits and the dodgy starter switch mech that needs to be replaced !

Mike Rich did my dual plug conversion, ported the heads, added high comp pistons, new valve guides, etc and Teo Lamers reprogrammed the ECU for the timing.  I can't really comment on how much it helped as too many other things were changing at the same time, it was 10+ years ago and I've never ridden another stock V11     But it didn't cause any detonation or other issues with reliability or smooth running.  

 

That being said, I still do have the occasional 3-4k stumble after everything is good and warmed up, so I'll be putting some time into ferreting out that problem even if it sacrifices some top end performance (or not).  I may look at refitting the stock airbox even though I do like the pods aesthetic.

 

 

 

But to the OP question, it really is a matter of personal taste, goals and available resources (time, money & patience).  And just like any similar endeavor one soon realizes a trend of decreasing returns for increasing cost. When I did all my original mods, I was a single guy with lots of disposable income, so if I were doing this again today (now with family= much less disposable income), I'd probably opt for some simpler modifications that focused more on addressing reliability, economy and suspension opportunities versus power.

 

There is a wealth of info here, but there isn't any (AFAIK) succinct formulas say for "stage 1", "stage 2" etc well tested performance combinations documented all in one place that essentially could be thought of as "kits" (parts & ECU/PCIII maps) with clearly defined results.  With that in mind, given the years of tinkering recorded here and other places like Wildguzzi perhaps there ought to be 2, 3 or 4 well tested combinations (each more complex/costly than the previous, again "stage 1", "stage 2", etc) we could put in the FAQ section with references to the most commonly available parts, install guides, ECU/PCIII maps, estimated cost, HP/torque/reliability/caveats, etc ...   I think after all these years we probably do have a lot of that information scattered throughout the forum.