Kiwi_Roy Posted July 29, 2016 Posted July 29, 2016 Did you tell us what regulator you bought, the green wires are probably to chassis but need to look at the instructions to be sure.
HRC_V4 Posted July 29, 2016 Author Posted July 29, 2016 It is a 7 wire ElectroSport Regulator. It is supposed to be for this bike, but it is not plug and play. Looking at the wiring diagram, I know I use only two of the three yellow, combine the two red wires into one for the positive, I just want to confirm the other two wires are ground wires for the bike and should go to the other two wires that hook up to the wiring harness. I tested both wires resistance to the negative side of the battery, both have a little resistance and have an open line to the positive side.
Kiwi_Roy Posted July 29, 2016 Posted July 29, 2016 Please give the Electrosport part No so I can look up the diagram. I suspect the two greens are Negative but check Ohms between I.e. are they common. The best connection you have to battery negative is the engine block, connect the Negative wires to a bolt there.
Kiwi_Roy Posted July 29, 2016 Posted July 29, 2016 That's really a 3 phase regulator, there is no installation sheet for it but I will ask ES if they have one. Kyle Wood - ES Sales Manager "Yes, you can just leave 1 of the AC input wire to use the ESR530 on a single phase stator" 1
HRC_V4 Posted July 31, 2016 Author Posted July 31, 2016 OK, so just any of the two yellow wires. I think I may go with the MOSFET regulator then since it is the same wiring changes to get to it. Finally found what the other two wires are, one is for the gauge and the other is to Energize the Ducati Energia regulator. The wires seem really thin from the stator, I was expecting 10 gauge wires, not even close.
Kiwi_Roy Posted August 2, 2016 Posted August 2, 2016 I think mine are about 14gauge you can afore to lose a volt or two in the yellow wires, not in the battery leads. Sent from my shoe phone!
HRC_V4 Posted August 3, 2016 Author Posted August 3, 2016 I got the MOSFET in and wired up, seems to be a bit better than what I had, 12.8-12.9 at idle, I get to more volts quicker, but not as much at the higher RPMs, which is what I read about it. I was still getting a hot main fuse, took the fuse block off and turned it upside down, the wire from the fuse to the battery has corrosion where the connector is crimped to the insulation. I have some connectors ordered and will replace it when they show up, then maybe I can ride it again... Oh well, I need to get all this worked out before my big trip later this year.
docc Posted August 3, 2016 Posted August 3, 2016 Swing by the South'n Spine Raid in Tellico Plains, TN, Sept 9-11 and get a look at how some other V11 have been modified. We're not beyond rewiring yours in the garage there. While you sleep. 1
HRC_V4 Posted August 3, 2016 Author Posted August 3, 2016 Thanks for the invite, and I would, but that is during my big trip, I am heading out to the Ozarks with some friends for a week of riding in an area I have never ridden before. All the other wires look pretty good, I am hoping this will fix the hot fuse issue, if not I will peal away the wrap on the battery side of the same wire and see what it looks like.
Kiwi_Roy Posted August 3, 2016 Posted August 3, 2016 Mine had the hot fuse issue, I managed to bend the contacts to apply more tension. Either that or get a maxi fuse otherwise the hot fuse will just get worse. You could drill the maxi fuse legs and bolt it right to the battery positive and wire from regulator, it should never blow, only there for worst case scenario.
docc Posted August 4, 2016 Posted August 4, 2016 Thanks for the invite, and I would, but that is the start of my big trip, I am heading out to the Ozarks with some friends for a week of riding in an area I have never ridden before. All the other wires look pretty good, I am hoping this will fix the hot fuse issue, if not I will peal away the wrap on the battery side of the same wire and see what it looks like. Hey, The Ozarks would qualify for a South'n Spine Raid - maybe we should all tag along . . . My flinky little fuse contacts had been hot so many times, they would not hold tension. I even tried an external fuse holder, but found the ATC fuses just too small for the current load. My solution here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12326&p=148983
HRC_V4 Posted August 4, 2016 Author Posted August 4, 2016 Yes, still the South, just looking for some new roads to ride. The big fuse holder looks like the one that came with my MOSFET regulator. Did you by pass the fuse in the fuse box, or add it and make a fuse chain? By passing it would be easy, I am guessing it is right from the RR to the fuse box, to the battery? Honestly, the rest of the fuse box looks good, the failing one actually looks good and the contact and at the connector to wire crimp, but the extra crimp going through the insulation looks to be the issue, maybe a little moisture got into it. Once I cut it out I will post a picture of it.
docc Posted August 4, 2016 Posted August 4, 2016 I removed the tiny contacts from the fuse box and soldered the MAXI fuse holder into the stock wiring from the regulator to the battery.
Kiwi_Roy Posted August 4, 2016 Posted August 4, 2016 I'd like to think Luigi selected a fuse holder rated at least 30 Amps The problem is the regulator being a series type passes whatever current the alternator can put out as current pulses much higher than 30 Amps, maybe peaking at 40 or 50. A shunt type as used on most other bikes would have been kinder to the fuse because they short out the alternator before it leaves the regulator thus removing the source of heat By-pass the existing fuse, you may be able to use it later for an accessory.
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