Tell me about my '01 V11 Sport

[HRC_V4]

This oil came from the rear oil line while I was installing the Roper plate, looks like the coolant milkshake when a head gasket fails, but this thing is air cooled.  Any thoughts?

 

Another question, I put a full gallon of oil (4qrts) and it looks like I could add a little more, does that sound about right?

[czakky]

A little moisture was in the oil. It was probably old?

 

Are you using the threaded or un- dipstick method?

I thread and put in about 3.75qts. Anymore and she just uses it to about 3.75, that's my method.

[docc]

That rear oil line is the return from the crankcase vent that makes its was through the spine frame's backbone. No surprise for it to ahve picked up some moisture over time. With the tank off, you can loose it at the upper end and give it a good flush out.

[HRC_V4]

A little moisture was in the oil. It was probably old?

 

Are you using the threaded or un- dipstick method?

I thread and put in about 3.75qts. Anymore and she just uses it to about 3.75, that's my method.

When I put the Roper plate on, I marked the new dipstick 2 cm below the plate, and I am a little below that with 4 quarts, but I did spill a little, so maybe 3.9 quarts.

 

OK, I think this sat a while, so moisture makes sense.  I won't worry about it then.

[moto fugazzi]

The moisture also happens from short trips whereas the oil doesn't get hot enough to burn off the moisture. Condensation also collects in the engine with the heat and cold difference of the engine vs. cool weather. Quite similar to old single pain windows in wintertime, where condensation would build on windows when it's cold outside and hot inside. Looks like you need to go for a long ride this weekend, and burn all of that off. 

Ken

[HRC_V4]

Finally got her out for a good ride this weekend, my buddy who kept her for me drove up on Friday and we got up early Saturday and rode down to Hot Springs, NC for breakfast.  We got few sprinkles and a few deer and one black bear along the way.  My Guzzi did great, but developed an exhaust leak along the way.  We got that worked out today, and put the new throttle body boots on, but noticed a loose vacuum line coming off the right side tank fuel connection, I think it is the fuel pressure regulator, but is that line supposed to hook to something?  Also it looks like the PO drilled a bunch of holes in the top and tube of the airbox, any bad side effects of this?

 

Another question, is there a good place to relocate the helmet lock?  It does not seem like a good idea to rest the helmet on the muffler.

[gstallons]

The pressure regulator is vented to atmosphere . The vent hose(s) could be one of two that goes to the underneath of the tank that vents fuel or drain from the filler neck . It could have the other mess of vacuum hoses that I can't help with . 

 The holes in the air cleaner housing are the previous owner's innovation .

[footgoose]

HRC. I'd recommend getting a small coiled steel cable with an attached in line combination lock for your helmet. There are several brands and they pack away quite small. I can carry mine in my jacket pocket easily when not using a tank bag. They are made for bicycles I believe(and what not).The cable unwinds to about 3' and will pass through my jacket sleeve, helmet visor hole, and through the forks under the upper clamp. Everything rests at the front of the tank.  I carry an extra for a friend now and then. I'd hate to lose my Vanson, and had a friend get his helmet stolen.

[HRC_V4]

OK, something else not to worry about.  Should I worry about the holes in the aribox while riding in the rain?

 

Good thought on the locking cable, right now I keep my jacket in the side bag, but if I am ever on a trip, that will come in handy since I can lay my jacket across the tank and seat.

 

Did my valve adjustment last night, went with the recommended .001mm intake .0015 exhaust (I think I have my decimal in the right place).  Pulled the plugs and they were black.  Now, I admit I was keep the rpms down a little on the ride, so that could be part of it, but it was 200 miles on Saturday and 50 miles on Sunday, I would think that would be enough to clean them some.  I will get new ones.  I plan on riding this evening and coming back and doing the throttle body balance, weather permitting.

[Scud]

I think you might have set the valves to I=0.10mm and E=0.15mm (.004 and .006 in inches).

 

From what I can tell, almost everyone finds that looser settings improve things and reduce hiccuping - especially in hotter climates. There are several threads on valve settings, and I've saved a few recommendations, as follows:

 

Factory Spec:  I=0.10mm and E=0.15mm (.004 and .006 in inches)

World Spec:  I=0.15mm and E=0.20mm (.006 and .008 in inches) 

Raceco Spec:  I=0.20mm and E=0.25mm (.008 and .010 in inches)

 

FWIW, I use the Raceco specs, because that's what my Scura was set to after my dealer did the break-in service and I like how it runs.

[HRC_V4]

Yes, thanks for correcting my error, seems a finance guy would be more cognoscente of significant digits...

 

I finally got a chance to take her for a ride and get her up to temp to adjust the TB's, and was that easy, almost as easy as the valve adjustment!  They were pretty far off, so it made me more excited about getting her out, but in the process of idling and starting, the battery died...

 

So I charged the battery, key off I get 12.7v-12.8v, key on I get 12.3v-12.4v, idling I get about the same, 12.3v-12.4v.  At about 2,500 rpm I am getting 13.0v-13.1v, at 3,000 rpm I am getting 13.6v-13.7v and at 5,000rpm I am getting about 14.5v-14.7v.  After I first got the bike home I noticed the flickering battery light at idle, I have not seen that since, I am wondering if the bulb blew?

 

These numbers make me think there is not anything terribly wrong, but I might have a bad connection somewhere, or a bad ground. Main battery ground is to the back of the transmission, I need to pull it and clean it, the stator wires looked like they are crimped on, all the wires are zip tied under the tank and to the frame, and I don't see a plastic connection, but I will cut the zip ties and have a closer look.  There is a ground from the Regulator to the front engine cover, so it looks like the PO kept things clean and tidy.  Where is the main fuse? I was going to give it a look, I am assuming it is under the seat somewhere?

[czakky]

I don't think the bulb blew those Voltage mumbers don't sound to good to me though. I think your on the right track checking/grooming connections though I think it could be a dying reg. charging should max out at around 14.2v at 3500 rpm I believe. Probably someone more learned than I will chime in.

The main fuse is the 30a in the fuse block. They get pretty hot and sometimes melt making the connection bad. Some replace it with a maxi-fuse, like heavy duty car audio guys use.

[HRC_V4]

Looks like you were right, took the fuse block cover off and pulled the 30a, it was slightly melted, so I pulled all the fuses and cleaned the block the best I could and put all new fuses in.  Cranked it up and all the measures were the same, but then my idle got crazy high, about 2k-2.5k rpm, I got it to back down after blipping the throttle, then back up.  Even pulled on the throttle bodies and still high.  Also the 30a fuse was hot again, no melt but very hot.  I am going to replace the regulator and check the wiring under the tank.  I am wondering if the sudden idle change and the previous black plugs are somehow related, maybe not enough voltage to the coils or something.

[Kiwi_Roy]

You need to fix that overheating fuse or it will come back to bite you. Clean the fuse holder contacts with fine emery paper then bend the contacts so they grip tighter. Replace the old fuse. I did this to mine it seemed to fix it. Check the connectors on the yellow wires also.

Does your bike have after market headlight relays or are you measuring the voltage with the headlight Off, that will make it lower by half a Volt.

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

[HRC_V4]

I cleaned them all.  I took the old regulator off, someone had direct connected the Stator wires, the other connection looks good, but I am going to redo all the connectors with weather pack connectors. On the new regulator I have 2 red wires which looks like connect together and go into a single wire to the fuse box, then I have two green wires, and I just want to confirm that it does not matter which of the other two wires they go to.