V11 Ballabio running woes after dealer service

[earemike]

Hi all, seeking guidance on running issues.

 

My Ballabio has pod filters and staintune exhausts with the stock crossover and original balance pipe headers. When I first bough it it had the standard airbox and ran badly at just over 3k rpm, changing to the pods did not make much difference. At idle the bike was great to about 3,200-3,300 rpm where it coughed and spluttered however rolling the throttle on further the response was crisp. If I avoided that narrow rpm range the bike was a gem.

 

Last week I decided to have the dealer service my bike, hoping they would be able to update the ECU map as I assumed this might have contributed to the strange running behaviour. Unfortunately when they finally got the axone to work they reported there was no new map to update to.

 

The dealer did the TPS, valves and throttle bodies and then tried to remove the rough running at around 3,200rpm. They successfully removed the running problem in this rev range however introduced two new issues.

 

1. The bike now stumbles & stalls at idle, is harder to start and smells rich on start up.

2. Over 4000rpm acceleration is not as crisp and holding revs (especially over 5000rpm) the engine splutters however this only happens when holding the throttle & rpm steady.

 

Right now I'd be much happier if they can put it back how it was but thought I'd ask if anyone could give us some guidance.

 

My only other clue is the mechanic said the CO2 was "way out", originally at -200 I *think* he said he moved it close to zero. 

 

Any advice greatly appreciated, if you've a good map on a v11 with pipes & pods and are happy to share I could also try swapping out the map. I don't understand how tuning out a bad "flat spot" could have such a negative effect on running and would like to understand what the heck is going on.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

[fotoguzzi]

my Lemans (stock) had the same stumble at 3200 and when I got rid of the stock crossover for a Mistral the stumble went away.. I did not have the front balance pipe tho..

[docc]

There are more than a couple "accepted" procedures for performing the tune-up. Sounds like yours could use a do-over.

 

Zeroing the CO and baselining the TPS are certainly critical first steps along with "world" valve specs.

 

It is quite easy to not get the right throttle plate entirely closed (for several reasons) causing the ECU to be reading the map in the wrong rpm range. Also, quite common to want the motor to idle too low. The AXONE will confirm the actual idle rpm relative to any tachometer error.

 

Finally, the throttle body balance is best performed "off idle" (perhaps above 2000 rpm) while the air bypass screws may be used to fine tune the idle balance (I find mine runs best with the air bypass out about one full turn, not the Workshop Manual procedure calling for 1/2 turn.

[JBBenson]

You might need to start over as the bike was not running properly when you brought it in. It has a mix of some classic bad tuning symptoms.

 

Recommends:

 

1.

Ditch the pods, they don't give you any more power and degrade drivability. Go back to the stock airbox and filter.

 

2.

Get a breakout harness

 

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=1621

 

3.

Do a full tune up:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19368&hl=%2Bjb%26%2339%3Bs+%2Bmethod&do=findComment&comment=209481

 

Scroll down and look for my “quick and dirty method” using white knob only.

 

If you do all of this and it still stumbles around 3K, its the stock crossover. If it STILL does it after a new crossover, its the map.