Tail Tidy

[Chuck]

11 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

Personally I like this better.

http://www.fastguzzi.nl/v11/scuracarbontail2.jpg

Ciao

I really like the looks of that, but a guy would have to come up with something to keep from trashing the rear shock. Do you know where it comes from, LP?

[Lucky Phil]

3 hours ago, Chuck said:

I really like the looks of that, but a guy would have to come up with something to keep from trashing the rear shock. Do you know where it comes from, LP?

Yep, Paul Daytona. (Paul Minnaert) He sells them, or used to.

Ciao

[nobleswood]

I imagine any of the tail tidy's need a hugger to stop the shock getting trashed with road dirt...

And so it goes  more things to do.

[Steve S]

I did this as I had a spare mudguard so got rid of the number plate lamp, the LED lamp has one built in

[Kiwi_Roy]

As for running LEDs in the indicators you will need a different flasher unit, the OEM flasher operated on lamp current. The current would heat up a bi-metal strip which would bend so the contact sprung open then cool down to close and repeat the process. The only way to make this flasher work with LEDs is by adding huge resistors to take the place of the incandescent lamp load, this is too crude.

With LEDs you need a flasher unit that will open and close at zero current, these flashers normally have a third wire connected to chassis.

Then you need to re-wire the idiot light, it came from the factory connected between Left and Right indicators the current drawn was insignificant compared to the incandescent lamps in the indicators, about 100 mA but with LEDs that tiny current is many times what the LEDs draw.

All you need to do is wire a small diode from each side pointing at the idiot lamp with the other side of the lamp to chassis. The diodes prevent the lamp signal getting from Left to Right indicators, even if you change the idiot light for an LED you will need the diodes. This change takes place inside the dash, no additional wires except the new ground for the lamp.

If you decide to change out the incandescents in the dash for LEDs don't even think about using the original lamp holders.

BTW, if any of you also have a CARC Guzzi you do need to add a shunt resistor (just a tiny 1K 1/4 Watt) to some LEDs to keep the lamp alarm happy and stop the lamps glowing with the key off.

 

I tried to add a sketch file but it's even too large at only 200 dpi

 

[Kiwi_Roy]

4 hours ago, Steve S said:

I did this as I had a spare mudguard so got rid of the number plate lamp, the LED lamp has one built in

Steve,

          Do you have the part No of that lamp, I bought one for my old Eldorado but couldn't find it again when it came time to do the griso.

I ended up adding a pair of white LEDs

[docc]

13 hours ago, Kiwi_Roy said:

Steve,

          Do you have the part No of that lamp, I bought one for my old Eldorado but couldn't find it again when it came time to do the griso.

I ended up adding a pair of white LEDs

Steve posted this ebay.UK link for that light ("Doesn't post to the US" - not sure about Canada):

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133573248578

I found this one on ebay.US ("ships from Hong Kong"):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-21-LED-Motorcycle-Bike-Rear-Tail-Brake-Light-License-Number-Plate-Lamp/112359565862?epid=574992695&hash=item1a2926ea26:g:B7sAAOSwCU1Yq7de

Perfect fit for the V11, but like a lot of LED tail lights, the sides (and top) are dark.

 

[docc]

Luciano Marabese would certainly approve of efforts to "tidy" the tail of his V11 design.

From the excellent AnimaGuzzista interview, September 2002:

Marabese: "Ma ha visto quel’ quel paracadute di portatarga che han messo sul codone del V11? Ma quello me l’han piazzato dove fuggono tutti i flussi d’aria. Un semplice pezzo montato a caso che poi ti leva 4 cavalli alla moto!"

[" But did you see that plate holder parachute they put on the tail of the V11? But that was placed for me where all the air flows escape. A simple piece assembled at random which then takes 4 horsepower off the bike!"]

[nobleswood]

13 hours ago, Kiwi_Roy said:

As for running LEDs in the indicators you will need a different flasher unit, the OEM flasher operated on lamp current. The current would heat up a bi-metal strip which would bend so the contact sprung open then cool down to close and repeat the process. The only way to make this flasher work with LEDs is by adding huge resistors to take the place of the incandescent lamp load, this is too crude.

With LEDs you need a flasher unit that will open and close at zero current, these flashers normally have a third wire connected to chassis.

Then you need to re-wire the idiot light, it came from the factory connected between Left and Right indicators the current drawn was insignificant compared to the incandescent lamps in the indicators, about 100 mA but with LEDs that tiny current is many times what the LEDs draw.

All you need to do is wire a small diode from each side pointing at the idiot lamp with the other side of the lamp to chassis. The diodes prevent the lamp signal getting from Left to Right indicators, even if you change the idiot light for an LED you will need the diodes. This change takes place inside the dash, no additional wires except the new ground for the lamp.

If you decide to change out the incandescents in the dash for LEDs don't even think about using the original lamp holders.

BTW, if any of you also have a CARC Guzzi you do need to add a shunt resistor (just a tiny 1K 1/4 Watt) to some LEDs to keep the lamp alarm happy and stop the lamps glowing with the key off.

 

Thanks Kiwi_Roy. I'm fairly sure I'll have to study your advise a few times to make this work but it's one of the improvements I'm hoping to make. First on my V11 Sport then on Griso.