I was warned...

[Antiquar]

 

I was wondering why my battery was dead after a short ride today--especially since it was fully charged this morning and I checked the charging voltage before I left.

 

The ATO fuse melted somewhere along the way. I'm just glad I didn't go for a longer ride.

 

So... anyone know where I can get a 10gauge MAXI fuse holder?

 

 

[Kiwi_Roy]

It's melted alright, due to being loose in the clips.

Why not just pick up another normal size from your nearest Auto store?

 

You could always drill the legs of a maxi-fuse and connect it to the wires with bolts & lugs.

[sculler2x]

I got one at West Marine.

[docc]

Looks familiar. Seriously, the MAXI-fuse install solved some funky issues with my Sport.

 

Check my work on this link, but this looks like a MAXI-fuse holder from DigiKey:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/eaton/BK-HHX/283-3821-ND/601819

[gstallons]

You can get one at any good automotive parts supplier .

[Antiquar]

Thanks guys. My local automotive shops carried the fuses but no holders.

 

That looks like the right thing, docc, thanks for the link.

 

 

"You could always drill the legs of a maxi-fuse and connect it to the wires with bolts & lugs."

That's a great idea. It would be so easy to check on the condition of the fuse.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Yes, I looked in Canadian Tire, they have fuses but no holders also.

Since the only reason you are looking for a maxi-fuse is to get a better holder why not just get a better holder for the standard fuse?

My V11 Sport melted the fuse like that, I was able to bend the clips to make better contact, that was several years back.

 

The current thru the fuse is a series of high current peaks (half wave DC) probably well over the fuse rating, I suspect that's why they give out, heat is proportional to the current squared x resistance.

 

Or you could fix it the Luigi way, fuse melts, take fuse out as he did to many of the bikes ~ 2000, the regulator

red wires from the regulator connect straight to the battery, not what any electrician would do.

[docc]

Thanks guys. My local automotive shops carried the fuses but no holders.

 

That looks like the right thing, docc, thanks for the link.

 

 

"You could always drill the legs of a maxi-fuse and connect it to the wires with bolts & lugs."

That's a great idea. It would be so easy to check on the condition of the fuse.

I tried a better ATC fuse holder, but it still got too hot.  As to fuse condition, I started using a "SmartFuse" that illuminates an LED when the fuse is blown after a blown fuse that I could not easily see by the roadside.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Since the fuses on the VIIs are close coupled to the battery another option would be drill one leg and bolt it to the battery post, I would shorten the legs as much as possible.

The fuse should never ever blow only if the regulator goes into melt down mode.

 

I have several old Guzzis with lots of infused wiring, I think I might do that with the feed to ignition switch, carry a spare pre-drilled (thinking out loud here)

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

[docc]

My MAXI blew after I took apart my positive connections and didn't re-tighten them after a ride or two. Main positive connection was a little loose and must have thrown some big spikes. Lesson learned.

 

I was carrying a spare fuse, but couldn't see the blown fuse upon inspection on the roadside. I suppose I was careless or visually impaired, but decided to put in one of those LED "Smart_fuses" that light up when blown. I tried to figure out how they are wired to do that, but got dizzy and gave up. 

[Stick]

Fuses and/or connections should not be getting hot.  If they are, there's a bad connection close by.  

 

My 2002 Lemans has a newer 3 phase Ducati RR (only used 2 of the 3 yellow RR input wires) with the output wires being 2 red, and 2 black wires.  These are wired directly to my battery using 12 ga. wire.  I  opted to not use the 30A fuse.    And it works well - 14.3 V while driving.

[sp838]

Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X10ga+maxi+fuse.TRS0&_nkw=10ga+maxi+fuse&_sacat=0

[Antiquar]

Nice. I never think to check ebay.

[Kiwi_Roy]

The LED fuses are very simple, just a resistor and LED in series across the fuse element.

While the fuse is intact there is no Voltage to light the LED because it's shorted out.

When the fuse blows there is now 12 Volts across the resistor/LED so it lights

Note: if there is no load on the fuse pulling it down to chassis the LED will not light.

The very small current (

 

You can also add LEDs and resistors to the existing fuse holders.

10K Ohms would be a good value to start with.