al_roethlisberger Posted January 13, 2019 Posted January 13, 2019 And here is one of my all time favorite tools... the platform jack. I initially bought it to remove the engine from the V11, but I have found many more uses for it since. I think the Dana 50 front differential weighs more than the entire V11 engine. Absolutely a thumbsup on a platform jack, for a myriad of things. I don't actually have a proper automotive platform jack, but many many years ago I acquired something nearly equivalent; which is the installation lift for a Cisco 12000 router. It is essentially a one-time use item that came with the packaging to help one lift and line that monster up with the rack mounts. I don't know what its load limits are, but I know it starts to slightly deform when lifting one corner of my Jaguar, so that would be a bit over 1000lbs. But it is great for lifting various things, and I saved it from recycling specifically for lifting motorcycles. A platform lift specifically for motorcycles would be better because the 12000 lift is really wide, very heavy, and takes a while to lift with since it has a screw lift, but it's pretty good for free. I still may get a real one someday. 1
Scud Posted January 14, 2019 Posted January 14, 2019 What are you doing to the differential ? Hopefully nothing more than a clean-out and replace the axle seals, the gears look great. The old Dana 50 (Twin Beam) FWD has some peculiarities, one of which is that the axle shaft has a retaining clip inside the differential that must be removed to get the axle out... to replace the seal. It's easier to replace the U-joints with the axle out too. There's no access cover on the diff, it seals directly onto the big suspension arm in the background (you can see the grey sealant).
gstallons Posted January 15, 2019 Posted January 15, 2019 Make sure the vent is clear . Use a good brand u-joint w/grease fittings . I would use a great brand of sealer on the install . 1
Scud Posted January 15, 2019 Posted January 15, 2019 Sounds like you've done this job, G. I will replace the vent line, which broke when I removed it. Spicer U-Joints, SKF bearings, and Moog for the steering components and pivot bushings. I'm using Lucas waterproof 4WD grease in the gun. And I'm going to use a fresh tube of the best sealant I can find - don't want to pull this pumpkin ever again. I had the 4 ball joints and 2 pivot bushings pressed in today at a shop. I'm pretty sure I can do the rest of the smaller components myself.
gstallons Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 You can install a longer vent hose , loop it and install a plastic fuel filter in the end of the vent hose to keep any nasty stuff out of the differential . AND , make some studs to maintain good alignment when you reinstall the differential to the front axle housing . You don't want to drop the F-bomb discovering smeared sealant after you get it back together . 1
Scud Posted January 30, 2019 Posted January 30, 2019 I thought y'all might enjoy some polished F250 front end. I drove it today - after being down about a month. I no longer fear replacing U-joints on a Moto Guzzi - having just replaced these huge rusted-in 4WD U-joints. Sometimes a project takes on special meaning if I have to buy a special tool for the job. This one should qualify... Special Tools Purchased for this project: Slide Hammer - great fun. I bought a cheap slide hammer once to do V11 swingarm bearings, but it bent so I returned it. My new one is a beast. Spindle puller - a most ingenious adapter for the slide hammer Hydraulic press - from Harbor Freight. Perhaps not the most precise press available, but was great for the U-joints and a few other bits. Will come in handy in future. Front end steering puller kit - for Pitman arm and tie-rod ends. So easy... can't believe I used to use pickle forks and hammers. Ball joint service kit - this was a fail for this project, as the F250 joints were badly stuck, so I had to get them pressed out (and new ones pressed in) from a shop. However, my daughter's Toyota Highlander will need ball joints soon, and those will probably seem like child's play after this project. A few sockets. Had to buy a 33mm and one other size Just amazed at the size of some of the parts. The inner wheel bearings don't even fit in a big tub of grease. 2
Chuck Posted January 30, 2019 Posted January 30, 2019 Wish I had your energy, Scud.. I detest beating on automotive crap. Speaking of that.. where's the hammer? Nice work, though. 1
Scud Posted January 30, 2019 Posted January 30, 2019 I can assure you that many hammers were used in anger during the project. Slide hammer was my favorite, but I also enjoyed wailing on the axles with a big rubber mallet to get the U-joints to settle in and move freely after I pressed them in. And the breaker bar (pictured) was essential for dislodging stubborn rusty stuff (even after soaking for days in PB Blaster). Although frustrating at times, I learned a lot - never worked on 4WD before. And I now get to bore people to tears with my front-end rebuild stories... 1
Pressureangle Posted January 30, 2019 Posted January 30, 2019 Yeah... Fav hammer for all things. Aaand...file too large. Didn't think that hammer was so big.
docc Posted January 30, 2019 Author Posted January 30, 2019 Wish I had your energy, Scud.. I detest beating on automotive crap. Speaking of that.. where's the hammer? Nice work, though. Yeah... Fav hammer for all things. Intimately related to "Polished Wrenches" . . . "Hammers"
gstallons Posted January 30, 2019 Posted January 30, 2019 You did use plenty of wheel bearing grease on the needle bearings in the hub where the axle shaft goes through the spindle ?
Scud Posted January 30, 2019 Posted January 30, 2019 Yup, lots of grease. New bearings too. Just picked it up from the alignment shop - it drives soooo much better than before. Now I need to find someplace to try out the 4WD and test those new bearings, seals, and u-joints.
gstallons Posted January 31, 2019 Posted January 31, 2019 Judging from the blue seals on the u-joint caps I would say you used Spicer u-joints ? The BEST !
Scud Posted January 31, 2019 Posted January 31, 2019 Yeah Spicer U-joints and SKF bearings. Every bearing, race, bushing, seal, and joint on the front driveline, steering, and suspension is new. The Ford Shop Manual is fantastic. I had the differential bearings and seals replaced at a local driveline shop. He actually advised me against the Spicer U-joints with the grease nipples. He said he prefers the kind without the grease fitting, since the seals are better on that type and the inner cross is stronger. He especially prefers the non-greaseable u-joints on diesels due to the high torque they have to transfer to the wheels. But I used the greaseable type anyway. I only want 4WD on this truck for traction and light duty on the dirt roads. I'm not going mudding or rock-crawling in a 20 foot, 6,000 pound truck. So I don't think I'm going to break those joints.
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